UPDATE 5 - PUERTO NATALES 11 MAY 06

05 - 11 May 06
PUNTA ARENAS - USHUAIA - PUERTO NATALES.

05 May 06 (Fri). The aim for today was to get cracking early and drive the 622 kms (400 miles) from PA to Ushuaia. The plan last night was reveille 0600, breakfast 0630, load bikes 0700, on the road 0730. We were on time for the first deadline; we were a bit late for the second and the rest just went for a ball of chalk! This is the first day that we have loaded the bikes with all the kit. With quite a lot of fannying around we managed to get them loaded, secured, stable and on the road for 0900. Who said they are 300 Kgs all up weight? I think a bit more than that and they’re top heavy too.
There were two options for crossing the Magellanes Straights, the first is the ferry from PA due east to Porvenir on Teirra del Fuego, it’s a 2 – 3 hr ferry trip and the ferry leaves once a day at 0900 from PA (we were already pressed to get that one) and there’s still a two hour ride to the Chilean/Argentine border. The second option and the one we opted for was a 200 km ride north then east following the Magellan Straights to Puerto Espora and get a ferry that run every 30 minutes; much more flexible. Then ride to San Sebastian to cross the border from Chile into Argentina. The road to Puerto Espora was paved, in good condition all the way and should have been a straight forward run; what made the ride sporting was the gale that was blowing from the west. We were physically leaning the bikes onto the wind until we turned east and had a tail wind. There was the obligatory flock of Upland Geese (or the equivalent) that would leave it to the last minute before lifting and then flying directly towards us. I wonder if they are closely related to or trained by sheep? Other interests were the Choique (the Lesser Rhea) and Lamas Guanaco (Lama Guanicoe – English) by the roadside.

The crossing from Puerto Espora was quick and simple, as we arrived a ferry bow door opened and traffic drove on, 30 minutes later we drove off south. Now the wind was coming from the right, still leaning and now no paved surface just hard packed graded surface that was generally good but did try to catch us out occasionally with a large pothole or two.

A lesson already known, but driven home today was; never pass gas; that does not mean there’s no farting; it means if there is the opportunity to fill-up with petrol, do not pass the chance to fill up with petrol! Although the bikes arrived with full tanks from the Falklands and we did just over 60 miles that afternoon, Mick S reckoned that we should fill up as we were leaving Punta Arenas, but I reckoned that we had enough for what we wanted to do and anyway, there must be fuel on the way; wrong. With the 60 plus mile covered on the 4th and the 220 mile this morning our fuel warning lights were on long before reaching the Chilean border at San Sebastian on Tierra del Fuego. As we ran south at a good pace, we were evermore conscious that fuel would be a requirement fairly soon; no I think critical is more like the term! The countdown km markers for San Sebastian suggested that we would be sucking fumes by the time we got there, assuming I had enough, but Mick S should be okay as he had a little more in the tank than I did. Assumption; there will be fuel at a major town with a customs post; wrong. There is no town, just a few houses and scattered barns and no fuel on the Chilean side. The next fuel was to be at the Argentine border post another 14 kms away. Having cleared Chilean customs we entered no-mans land and hoped that we had enough fuel to make the distance – we did. The bikes have a 30 litre tank; mine took 30.1 litres! We were very please to clear customs at both points without any delays and with the assistance of friendly and helpful officials.

Fully fuelled, fed and watered we were ready to tackle the last 300 kms through the Rio Grande, around the eastern edge of Lago Fagnano and onto Ushuaia. Easy, one road, head south, easy except for that wind. It was a bright sunny but bitterly cold day with the westerly increasing in strength and as Tierra del Fuego is flat and almost featureless there is nothing to brake the wind until you are nearing the end of the world!

As we approached Lago Fagnano the mountains of Sierra de Injugoyen and Sierra Alvear started to break up the wind and the pressure was off. The scenery became more interesting as did the riding but the roads were wet and slippery and with these heavily laden bikes, on our first day fully loaded a little caution was required. The mountains backlit by an orange sunset made a pleasant finish to a good days riding.

All that was left to do as we drove into Ushuaia, with the town slogan of “The end of the world, the beginning of everything” was to find somewhere to stay, get some local cash and have something to eat. The first hotel we saw was the Canal Beagle we pulled in and as it’s out of season we were offered a very good rate for three nights with a large underground garage to secure the bikes. Accommodation sorted now for some cash, how much should you draw when you don’t know what the exchange rate is, just get loads it’ll be spent. And for food look for somewhere that looks popular, walking around most restaurants and they are almost empty, not a good recommendation. But there again we were eating at Brit times about an hour before the locals even thought about going out!

06 May 06 (Sat). Ushuaia sits on the northern bank of the Beagle Channel, the southerly most town on the planet that we could ride to located at S54.810 W068.315. That makes it about the same distance south of the equator as Newcastle is north of it. The only constantly habited town south of Ushuaia is Puerto Williams on the island of Navarino, Chile. We walked around the local are to get our bearings, a bit of sight seeing and find the major sites of interest. The memorial to the Hero’s of the Malvinas war and particularly to the crew of the General Belgrano that was sunk by the Royal Navy submarine HMS Conqueror on 02 May 1982, is a major monument. I assume that this area had significant losses during that conflict.

We took the opportunity of a boat trip to see some of the wildlife of the Beagle Channel. At 1500 we set sail (fired up the engines and throttled up) on the catamaran the Elisabatta to see; Sea Lions and Seals, Cormorants, guillemots and Arctic Doves. It was a great experience to see such wildlife in it natural habitat, up close and personal, very personal indeed. The boat got to within 10 metres of the rock outcrop that was the basking area of the sea lions. We were so close you could almost reach across and get bitten! Having left the sea lions to their roaring, grumbling and some fighting, we were off to see the seals. What a contrast in behaviour, the seal lions just tolerated us and were indifferent in not a bit grumpy at the the intrusion. The seals were a completely different kettle of fish. They we like energetic kids and the arrival of the boat was the signal to come and play. Long before the boat arrived at there island they were leaping into the sea and coming to meet us. As if primed and on cue from the tour guide they jumped, dived, swam on their back looking up at us ready for that photo opportunity and chased around the stern of the boat as it powered away. These were bright, fun animals who looked as if they were here to enjoy life and if they could play with us all the better.

I must say that I have mixed feelings about this excursion; on one hand it was great experience to see a range of sea life in its natural surroundings and on the other the intrusion into their environment must have quite an impact on them. I can only assume that there is tight control on the number of boats visiting each area in any given time period or does money drive all!
We reached our most southerly point on this trip, the lighthouse @ S54.872 W068.082 that is 15 kms south east of Ushuaia. Everything for us is north from this point.
07 May 06 (Sun). We took the opportunity to have a short ride to the National Park and Roka Lake west of Ushuaia on the Chilean border but what we were really looking for was the glacier; poor navigation! We arrived at the park gate to be told by the Park Warden that we should have headed north out of Ushuaia not west; we knew that really, all those years of navigating around the world and we couldn’t find the glacier that we could see from the hotel window! Following the park, we thought that we ought to visit the glacier and were told that it’s a 1km walk once we’d reached the car park. It was an interesting ride to the glacier, a steep climb with some tight corners, fun for the bikes, but once at the car park we were told it was a 5 km walk; not to be undertaken in riding kit! Coffee, and toasties and contemplate our option for the afternoon. Obvious really, steep road with bends, go and play and do some filming. So that’s what we did for a couple of hours. Up and down trying to get some good shots and entertain the locals who wondered what we were up to! Enough of that, off for supper and large seafood pasta, more seafood than pasta very good indeed.

There is an abundance of dogs where ever you go. They seem to have their very own patch to patrol; they pick you up when you’re walking and escort you through and then leave you. They are all friendly enough and seem to enjoy a bit of company. But what they enjoy even more is a couple of bike to rush at barking, but what is the target, just the sport of the chase, see if they can get a tyre or to score full point they need to make contact with the rider? They then disappear until the next target comes along.

08 May 06 (Mon). Ushuaia to Punta Arenas. The run back to PA was the reverse of the run out on Friday, a dash to cover the 622 kms, two border posts, a ferry and be in PA before dark. It had sounded as though it had been raining overnight and it still was when we were preparing to set off. It’s still only the second day that we have had fully loaded bikes and we are still messing about trying to find the optimal loading plan and sequence of strapping it on. We got await by 0900 to spend an hour travelling through the Sierra de Injugoyen and Sierra Alvear, the weather had closed in and the anticipated views were disappointingly clouded. Slippery surfaces, tight and narrow corners and a bit of thick fog kept us interested in the job in hand. Once we were in the low hills the wind started to take affect on our riding style and as we travelled further north it became clear that what we had experienced on the way down was only a moderate breeze! Once clear of any protection of the mountains we spent the whole time leaning on the wind. I felt that it was trying to rip my helmet off and with it my head! It was a short but pleasurable respite as we approach Rio Grande turning east to ride around the town but only to be back in it as we turned north again.

The two border crossings were as smooth, friendly and helpful as they were coming the other way on Friday. We stopped for fuel, coffee and toasties before leaving Argentina, not wanting to repeat the near fuel crisis of the previous crossing! As we approached halfway to the ferry crossing at Bahia Azul we saw a loan bike heading towards us. We all stopped as is customary apparently to exchange new of crossing point and give/receive new of route conditions or problems ahead. The loan motorcyclist was from Japan, he was on a years out touring and had ridden from Canada. Pleasantries exchange we all went on our way. Then a second solo on what looked like a moped loaded up with massive panniers front and rear, without even communicating with each other Mick and I just ignorantly rode on. It was either disbelief at what we had just witnessed or more likely the thought of struggling to keep ourselves and the bikes upright while shouting through crash helmets over the raging wind to exchange pleasantries, the elements were winning. We both later felt a pang of guilt for not stopping to speak as Mick commented on seeing him in his mirror stop and look back at us disappearing at speed up the road, this will not happen again.
The ferry crossing from Bahia Azul to Punta Delgrade was millpond smooth on the way out, but today it was raging. The ferry was holding off the slipway waiting for enough traffic to arrive or its allotted time before making a very position approach to the slipway and deckhands gesturing energetically to the waiting vehicles to get themselves load quickly. Loaded and off into high seas with the water breaking over the bow ramp, not a day to be idly gossiping on the open deck.

We landed safely and were on our final run home to PA and the quiet sanctuary of the Hotel Jose Nogueira for cold beer and a large stake. Wrong; as we turned west we had the wind almost broadside and it was still stronger than before! 2 hours battling the wind bike leaning at a precarious angle. To try and picture the strength of the wind, we went round a left hand corner and the bikes were leaning to the right. If you’re not conversant with the physics of cornering and gravity, just imagine that you are on a bicycle cornering left!

The day completed and two very tired riders felt that they had been wrestling the road surfaces, the bikes and the elements. Tired but satisfied and looking forward to
tomorrows ride to the mountains of Torres del Paine National Park.
09 May 06 Tue). To come this far south in Chile you really should visit the national parks. Torres del Paine was 270 mile from PA on well paved road for the first half and graded track for the second. The coast town of Puerto Natales was the halfway point where coffee was a welcome break from the straight roads with little to inspire thought or adrenaline. We were advised that the distance to Torres del Paine would probably be too much to complete that afternoon but there were lodgings a Cerro Castillo some 40 miles into the park. We like a challenge and we have found that local knowledge should be ignored at your peril, but their time and distance estimations are calculated using the local transport. They are way of the mark when comes to motorbikes. So off we went for a 100 mile trail ride, the first 60 miles on hard packed gravel track that you could maintain a very respectable average speed. In fact if you could maintain that average speed in the UK you’d be very impressed or arrested! The landscape is very impressive as you ride across the plains slowly stalking the mountains. Once in the park the, not only did the scenery become more dramatic with turquoise lagos, water fall and the snow capped mountains, but the track got a bit more dramatic too, nearly catching us out a couple of times when hard surface turned to fine silt offering no traction or steering, all the more interesting on those tight bends with a steep drop!
Our target destination was the lodge at Lago Grey the furthest point of the park and the head of the glacier. Arriving at the end of the afternoon still with plenty of daylight the sight of the glacier on the far distant shore with icebergs the colour of electric blue in the water in the middle distance surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains in late afternoon sun, the views continue to be more spectacular as we progress on this trip.
10 May 06 (Wed). Chilean glaciers visited, it was now are intention to head off to Argentina to their glacier park and see if it was bigger and better. The route out of the park was much the same as the way in, but we did stop at a viewing point to get some spectacular photos. As we did the David Bailey bit, a small Zorro Gris (Spanish) or Grey Fox (English) wondered onto the viewing point, looked at us and completed its morning constitution, he was not the least bit concerned of our presence, just lay in the open 5 metres from us. Even when a tour mini bus arrive and 6 people got out it did not flinch. Another one of those set piece tourist attractions, like the seals.
As we approach Cerro Castillo Mick S got a puncture. Fortunately we were close enough to town, I went ahead to find help which was in the form of the shop. I was told that there were no facilities here and Puerto Natales would be the best place to go. I’d just got back on the bike, side stand still down, when without warning I was on my side. Both bike and I hand been blown over; Oh had I forgot to remind you that it was still blowing a gale. Fortunately the local teacher happened by and spoke English, he though he knew a man who could help and sure enough he could. Shelter from the wind was sought behind the shop and the rear wheel was removed. Arriving at the appointed place I was met by two gents shoeing a horse, loud tones of cursing and bollocking the horse for having the audacity to require a new shoe. Much leg twisting and nailing to be done before he was ready to help me, but it was an interesting lesson in shoeing the gaucho way, not sure the horse enjoyed it much.

Old tyre removed and new tyre on (we are carrying a spare front and rear each) quicker than you can change the shoe on a horse. Success, we’ll be on our way in no time, just need to get some air into it, get it sealed on the bead and bob’s your uncle and away you go, or is it? The tyre bead would not seat and the compressor was too small to introduce enough air to force a seal. The only option was to ride to Puerto Natales where there would be a bigger compressor. Back to Mick S, arriving with rear wheel with new tyre fitted, look of delight on his face. Could almost hear his thoughts, job done we can get on our way, Wrong. Explaining that I must take it to Natales, he dually waved farewell and settled down with a couple of stray dogs. There is a tyre shop in Natales and we spent an hour fighting to get the bead to seat on the rim before it would inflate and I could get back to fit it.

Although it was a pain in the arse, the experience it give was the opportunity to get acquainted with the rudiments of rural life in this area and be aware that tubeless tyres are not the easiest of things to change without the proper equipment (unless you know differently?). Mick reckons the we need to do it the Icelandic way; tin of lighter fuel, spray it into the tyre and light, rapid expansion causes tyre to seat on the bead, any thoughts? All ends well with both bikes in working order ready for the next day.

11 May 06 (Thu). Now we’ll ride to Argentina and on to El Calafate on the edge of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Border crossing just outside Natales was without any problems, the guards did stop and want to have a look in the panniers but we think that they we just interested in the bikes and what we were carrying for our trip. As we entered the town we were trying to workout which road to take when a pick up stopped alongside and ask where we were going, they offered to lead us out of town and put us on the right road which we covered quickly before turning onto route 40, a gravel track that had little of scenery to view but much to concentrate on as it was a very loose surface. Today is probably the coldest we’ve had, there was ice on nearly all the static water that we passed and when we stopped before descending into El Calafate at a height of 800 metres Mick tried to take photos and some video but could not stop shivering. Still it’ll be another day tomorrow and another glacier, suppose you cannot see glaciers in the tropics, that’s why they are in the cold!

Our intention for the next week is to:

Did we reach our goals of last week; nearly, we are about a day out of our intended timings, but will be 2 days out by the time we leave El Calafate. The intention is to:

12 May (Fri). Visit Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

13 & 14 May. Ride to Peninsular Valdes

15 May (Mon). Whale watch – perhaps?

16 – 18 May. Ride to Buenos Aires.