UPDATE 4 - CHILE 05 MAY 06

9 Apr – 05 May 05
PUNTA ARENAS CHILE

29 Apr 06 (Sat). We arrived at Punta Arenas (Sandy Point) (PA) airport and moved through immigration and customs without incident; more than can be said for a couple of Russians who were in transit! PA is a historic city, located in southern Chile on the western shore of the Peninsula de Brunswick on the edge of the Magellanes Straights overlooking Teirra del Furego. The first impression as we approach the city was one of poverty. Poor housing, almost shanty with lots of scrap scattered around homes. But as we neared the centre of the city it evolved into a more structured and developed metropolis, a few tall buildings and some grand houses and plenty of small shops.

It is a city steeped in history. We are staying in the Hotel José Nogueira that was once the home of Sarah Braun the widow of an outstanding Portuguese pioneer Mr José Nogueira who was the owner of a cattle and shipping empire; it is claimed that in July 1916 Sir Ernest Shackleton presented himself, asking for funds and help to rescue his men who were marooned on Elephant Island after his ship “Endurance” was trapped in ice and then sank as the ice pack slowly crushed it. He was successful in raising help in the form of the Chilean Naval ship the “Yelcho” which reached Elephant Island on 30 August 1916, returning the stranded crew to Chile four days later. Evidence of Shackleton’s presence can be seen across the city with plaque and plate on numerous buildings hailing his name.

One of the first ominous signs that winter is approaching as we arrived in PA was the sound of studded snow tyres clattering on tarmac! That would be more apparent as the week progresses!

30 Apr 06 (Sun). PA is not a very large city and we walked the main areas within a few hours. One site that was strongly recommended was the Municipal Cemetery, acclaimed as the second best in the world! Being cynics and not believing that a cemetery could be so renowned we had to visit it; and yes it was spectacular. The money spent by the living to retain the memory of the dead appears some what extravagant, to say the least! However, true to the recommendation, it was a spectacular site and memorial. Some of the mausoleums were the sizes of small houses and better appointed too, tended with loving care and those with glass doors adorned with flowers, pictures and memorabilia of those laid to rest.

02 May 06 (Tue). Following the May Bank Holiday, Punta Arenas slowly came back to life and with it the opportunity to track down our shipping agent. We visited the manager of shipping, Milenko Bahamonde at the offices of Agunsa Shipping to confirm the arrangement for getting our bikes through customs when the Elisabeth Boye arrives. We were informed that the ship would not arrive until the morning of Thu 04 May 06 but were assured that they would do everything possible to extract the bikes as quickly as possible. In order to prepare customs and try to speed-up the official clearance we were taken by Christian Ramos to the customs offices to confirm what documentations would be require. The customs officer was very helpful, confirming that just our ownership docs were required. It seems easy; we’ll see on Thursday?

Even within the few days that we’ve been here, there is a noticeable drop in the temperature as the southern hemisphere winter approaches! We know that we will need to get a few hundred kms north soon and it to some warmer climes!

04 May 06 (Thu). Its 0830 and the Elisabeth Boye is in dock and unloading; they are not expecting to get to our container until 100. We wait and hope!!

At 1300 we have the bikes. With no hassle or bother we unloaded them from the container all safe and sound, had the dock shipping note issued and went to the Customs office. This is the part that everyone seems to dread, and for good reason in most cases. The Customs Officers at PA were extremely helpful. A straightforward set forms to complete a couple of stamps a friend good-luck to us and were on our way in 1½ hours, for first arriving at the docks to driving off. Thanks to all who made it happen.

It’s a bright sunny day again so the sensible thing to do was go for a spin to check that they are still working as we’d left them. Thirty miles north of PA was our turnaround point; we realising that we’d not put enough clothing on for this run-out. The wind is very strong and the temperature is dropping fast! While we were sat at the edge of the road a biker rode towards us out of the low bright sunshine; it was Gary from Washington State who’d started riding on 06 Feb 06 and was on his way to Ushuaia then up to Rio and possibly on to Cape Town to ride Africa. He was on an old BMW and sidecar combination; a true BMW spotter would have known instantly what year it was; all we can say that it was old, up for the job, loaded with kit and he had to kick start it! Prob a 750 or 800, sure someone will offer up a model?

Our intention for the next week is to:

05 May 06 (Fri). Attempt to ride from PA north east to Punta Delgada to get the ferry south onto Tierra del Fuego, cross the Chilean Argentine border at San Sebastian, through Rio Grande and on to Ushuaia; some 500 Kms. Arrival in Ushuaia by night fall will be dependant on ferries and the formalities of customs officials!

06 May 06 (Sat). A day to sightsee Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel and surrounding area.

07 May 06 (Sun). Return to PA to collect insurance documents posted from the UK. Insurance was one of those last minute things to arrange.

08 May 06 (Mon). If post arrives, ride north to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine an area of outstanding beauty in Chile but on the border with Argentina.

09 May 06 (Tue). Visit Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

10 May 06 (Wed). Cross into Argentina at Cerre Castillo to ride north to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and Monte Fitz Roy.

11 May 06 (Thu). Visit the glaciers.

12 May 06 (Fri). Head off north east for about 1000 kms to Peninsula Valdes, Monumento Natural Nacianal Ballena Franca Austral on the coast at N43.5, W64 degrees. This area is a marine sanctuary and hopefully there will be some interesting sights to see?

Well, by this time next week we’ll have seen how the time predictions are working!!