Two Wheels, Micks, Capes

UPDATE 19 - EQUIPMENT AND PLANNING

2007-11-21T09:37:00.000Z

EQUIPMENT AND PLANNING
At the outset of this trip we said that we would give you some feedback on the kit and equipment that we used. Having used it over a six month period, covering 30k miles in vastly varying conditions, climates and terrain we think that we have a fair idea of the strengths and weaknesses of each item. We have also included a list of companies that we used for insurance, shipping etc.

EQUIPMENT
Commercial disclaimer. During this trip we were not supported, sponsored or funded by any individuals, dealers, organisations or companies. The inclusions of the companies and their products in this website is not an endorsement, they are the companies that we bought products from, and with discount from some. The aim of including the equipment that we have used is for interest only and to help anyone else planning a trip of this kind. Our comments on the positive and negative issues are as we have found them along our journey.

BMW
http://www.bmw-motorrad.co.uk/

BMW 1150 GS Adventure Special Edition: Well obviously; well perhaps not! You can do this sort of trip on anything; we met people on foot, mountain bikes, tandems, and skate boards, on four wheels and every conceivable size and type of motorbike! For the trip that we planned, with its time constraints and the distance to be achieved, there were only two bikes that we would consider; the KTM adventure or BMW adventure! Each one has it merits and neither is the sales support or enthusiasm of their dealers!

We opted for the BMW; not sure if it was because it had the greater fuel capacity, shaft drive so no chain to maintain, or was it the Macgregor/Boorman experience when KTM said that they would not provide bikes for the Long Way Round because they would fail! Was it that Macgregor/Boorman would fail, or they would fail on and because of KTM or it was KTM that would fail?

We think that we made the right choice and we have nothing but praise for these machines. They were bought new in March 2006 and completed 30k miles each in the following six months in some very testing conditions and over even more demanding terrain. During the whole period neither of these bikes let us down once; although we did let them down a few times and quite hard; they just got back up and carried on as though nothing had happened; more than can be said for us! We have not had a single mechanical fault on either bike which is testament to the competence of the longevity of this model and their robust engineering.

We’ll be keeping these two bikes, as they’re only just run-in, and use them for the next jaunt which will probably be the real “Cape to Cape” as the Americas was just the warm-up rehearsal for the trip from the UK to Nordkapp, the northern point of Norway and onto Cape Town South Africa; starting either this summer (2008) or next? Highly desirable

CLOTHING
BMW Rallye 2 Pro Suit: Mick S had the full Rallye 2 Pro suit and I had just the jacket and used a pair of BMW Air Flow 2 trousers. The Rallye suit did not impress us; the design is flawed by trying to be all things to all men for all conditions! The suit is not waterproof but has a gortex waterproof liner that you insert into the jacket and trousers! The jacket may not be much of a problem, but you have to get your trousers off, which means boots too, to put the gortex trousers liner on!

The suit has a number of venting zips to increase the air flow through the clothing but they were not very effective when you consider the size of the Beemer’s screen and the added wind protection from its large front end! The venting zips were not weather proof and during cold wet conditions they allowed the ingress of water and cold air.

The external lower pockets are next to useless. They are too small and poorly shaped with a flap closed by two small patches of Velcro which are insufficient to secure the contents; and they blow open when riding at speed. These pockets fill up with dust, dirt and water. The two chest pockets are good and work well, but only the small pocket is water proof; the other larger one is more useful but your kit gets wet in it!

The build quality leaves much to be desired. Both of the cuffs of Mick S gortex jacket separated from the sleeve not long into the trip and bits fell off the clothes too

Our recommendation for this sort of clothing would be that the suit should be constructed with an integral waterproof membrane; all zips should be waterproof, including venting zips. Pockets should be as large as is practical, waterproof with weather tight seals, with lower pockets located so that they do not rest on the thighs when riding. Desirable

The BMW Air Flow 2 trousers: These worked really well in all conditions giving the greatest flexibility by using a combination of additional thermal trousers and gortex over trousers to suit the conditions. Highly Desirable

For total foul weather protection we used an all-in-one waterproofs.

BMW Pro Winter Gloves: These were the mutts nuts for cold dry conditions and as we experienced a lot of very cold dry conditions these were used continuously to great effect. Unfortunately they are not waterproof which would make them the only glove you’d need for cold dry/wet conditions. Highly Desirable

Bike Spares: We travelled with a few specific items that might be difficult to find on route:
Fork seals
Fuel Tank Quick Release Fuel Couplings + O-rings
Fuel Pipe Clamps
Improved Headlight Bulbs
Oil Filters
Oil filter tool

Kenwood Radios: We had a pair of radios for bike to bike comms that worked through the Pro Com 7. Unfortunately we never did quite manage to get them to work properly. The concept was great but the reality was that we could only talk to each other occasionally and even then intermittently! These are a very useful tool if they work when you’re separated or navigating through dense traffic. Desirable

WUNDERLICH
http://www.wunderlich.co.uk/
Big Foot: This is an oversized plate, attached to the standard side stand plate to increase the size of its footprint. It is very useful for heavily laden bikes parking on soft surfaces. Unfortunately the design of this plate is not that clever as we lost two; one before we left the UK (which was replaced) and the second in the second week of the trip! The concept is highly desirable but you could achieve the same effect with a locally produced product. Highly Desirable

Blue Air Filter: We fitted washable, reusable, long life air filters in order that we could wash and service them on the road instead of having paper filters that would perish more easily if they got damp or we drowned the bikes during river crossings! Desirable

Filter Plus: This is a magnetic plate that attaches to the oil filter to attract and collect any metal debris in the oil. As the bikes were brand new we wanted to reduce the threat of engine wear during the early weeks. Desirable

Magnetic Sump Plug: A magnetic oil plug that collects any metal debris from the engine. As with the Filter Plus, they were fitted to assist in collecting engine filings. Desirable

Signal Minder: Enables the indicators to remain on providing a permanent light while remaining a direction indicator. It provides additional visibility of the bikes/rides – safety. Desirable

Lifting Handle: Provides a handle in the right position to assist lifting the bike onto the centre stand. This is absolutely essential if you have a heavily laden bike. Essential
Splash Guards: They fit below the pots providing a weather shield to the feet and they work very well. Highly Desirable

Fenda Extenda Front Mud Guard: These are highly desirable in order to give added protection to the front of the engine from flying debris. Highly Desirable

Rear Extenda Rear Mud Guard: These are supposed to reduce the splash at the rear of the bike and provide additional protection! Not Required

Oil Filler Plug Lockable: This is to help prevent tampering with the oil filler plug. It is a useful security option but not essential. Desirable

Cruise Control: This is an unsophisticated throttle friction lock cruise control system that did work reasonably efficiently and helped on those 600 mile straight roads of Argentina! Desirable

Puncture Repair Kit: Could state the obvious!! Absolutely essential, include tyre levers and a method of pumping up the tyres too! Essential

Micro Flooter Spot lights: Additional spotlights were for safety; to be seen was more important that to see! Highly Desirable

Black Side Panels: They are cosmetic really but they do cover the brake reservoir and would help to deter and prevent tampering. Desirable

Battery; Improved Amperage: We opted for the improved battery providing greater amperage as we were going to run/recharge all sorts of electrical equipment and didn’t want to find a dead battery. Highly Desirable

Handle Bar Risers: These did provide a slightly more relaxed riding position; not essential! Desirable

Foot Peg Lowers: Mick Simpson had a set, I did not; Mick S spent a lot of time dangling his legs off the pegs, I was quite happy with the standard riding position. We do not recommend them due to the huge expense (£100++) of this kit and they catch the ground when riding rough ground or leaning low on tarmac! Not Required

Foot Brake Enlarge: This is a larger plate fitted to the foot brake to makes it easier for the foot to make contact with the foot brake. It is very useful when you’re desperately trying to find that rear brake pedal, especially when riding cross country! Highly Desirable

Pro Com 7: This device provides the interface between bike to bike communications, mobile phone, IPOD and GPS audio feed into a helmet earpiece. It is not essential unless you are using multi gadgets as you can put your IPOD earpieces in your ears and listen to the music on the go. If bike to bike communications are used some form of interface device will be required. Desirable

GPS BMW Nav II (Garmin 2610): Although our GPS did not have digital mapping for Americas, they were useful for dead reckoning and enabled us to plot where we’d been as well as enable us to return to a known point, especially if we had to go for help and then return to our companion! Desirable

TOURATECH
http://www.touratech.co.uk/ Oil Cooler Grill: The protective grill collected all sorts of flying debris, but none of it made it to the oil cooler, probably an essential piece of equipment. Essential

Centre Stand Protector (Belly plate): This was an additional plate to extend the standard belly plate. We felt that it would be essential to protect the underside of the bikes as much as possible as we were not sure what we were going to encounter. Essential

Exhaust Y Centre box (Exhaust non Catalytic): We were advised that the standard catalytic converter could be fouled by poor quality fuel and the Y Centre Box would prevent this. It also reduced the weight by a few kilos! Desirable

BMW to Cigarette Lighter Socket Adapters: BMW provide two electric power sockets on the bikes, but their size is not compatible with standard cigarette lighter powered equipment; making them unusable for anything other than BMW supplied electrical items. Adaptors are essential. Essential

Headlight Guard: An essential piece of kit as neither of our bikes suffered any damage to the headlights. We were either very lucky when riding the gravelled tracks of the Americas or the headlight guards did their job. Essential

Sondersystem 41 Litre Pannier System: A very good load carrying system. Not only did the panniers swallow a huge amount of kit, but they gave very good protection to the bikes on the few occasions when we put the bikes on the floor! Essential

Touratech Pannier Security: They do provide at additional cost integral locks and keys to be fitted to the catches, for their boxes and panniers. But they are as much use as an ashtray on the handle bars! We found that the locks were not robust enough for the job; they fell to pieces. It would be more secure and cheaper to buy a suite of small padlocks with identical keys. Although the catches keep the lids on the boxes during riding and crashing, the mechanism is woefully inadequate for the security of your kit as we found out in Canada when our panniers were broken into and kit stolen. A screwdriver will flick the soft aluminium catch open. We will fit additional security to these panniers for the next trip! Not Required

Top Case 33 Ltr: I do not think that we will use the top boxes for the next trip. Although the box was of good quality, the interface bracket to the bike was not sufficiently robust. We will probably dispense with the box in favour of a large bag/grip/canoe bag. It’ll take more kit and be more versatile. It can be secured to the bike with straps and use a Backpackers wire net to prevent it being slashed and kit stolen from it. Not Essential

Hand Guard Extenders: It is difficult to measure the level of additional protection that these give as they were fitted from new. Desirable

Bottle Holder Brackets Holds X 2 Sig Bottles: One pair of bottles on each pannier provided an additional 4 litre of capacity; one litre of oil and three litres of fuel. Highly Desirable

GPS Handlebar Bracket (Lockable): The stock BMW GPS cradle is plastic and although very competent in general use it would not withstand the rigour of our trip. If you’re using GPS a secure bracket to prevent/reduce the risk of theft is very useful. These brackets kept the GPS securely on the bike even when we threw them on the floor at speed! Essential

BIKEBITZ
http://www.bikebitz.co.uk/

Airhawk Seat Cushion: It is a comfortable pneumatic cushion that you clip to your seat. Absolutely essential, an absolute must if you’re going to be in the saddle for long periods and it really does work. Essential

TYRES
Continental TKC 80 (Knobble): These are a superb tyre, capable of good progressive road riding on tarmac, keeping up with the road bikes and gave us no problems off road either. These are our preferred choice of tyre, capable of dealing with all surfaces and terrain that we encountered. We averaged about 6k miles on each set of tyres. Essential

Metzeler MCE Karoo (Knobble): A good off road tyre but a nightmare on tarmac. Not Desired

Dunlop Road Tyre: These were a set of genuine road tyres that I had from Quito to San Francisco and they worked very well as we were on tarmac; except for 50 miles of muddy track!

Metzeler Tourance Dual Purpose: Fitted in Denver for the last run to LA; sheer luxury to get off the knobble’s as they were giving us RSI to the hands after so many miles on tarmac with high vibration knobble’s! Highly Desirable

PLANNING CONSIDERATIONS.

INSURANCE
Travel Insurance: Campbell Irvine (insurance Brokers) Ltd, 48 Earls Court Road, Kensington, London W8 6EJ. Tel +44 (0)20 7937 6981. http://www.campbellirvine.com/

Bike Insurance: Maria M Alessie. Assurantiekantoor Alessie, Eliotplaats174, 3068 VL Rotterdam, The Netherlands. Tel +31 104 555 946 fax +31 104 555 948. Email Alessie@Alessie.com

Bike insurance USA: Harley-Davidson Insurance, Drive Insurance, PO Box 6807, Cleveland, USA. +01 800 925 2886

PERMITS
International Driving Permit: RAC Motoring Services, Travel Administration, PO Box 1500, Bristol, BS99 2LH. http://www.rac.co.uk/

Carnet De Passage en Douane: Paul Gowen. RAC Operation, Great Park Road, Bradley Stoke, Bristol, BS32 4QN. +44 (0)1454 208000 (switchboard) +44(0)11454 208304 (direct line)
pkgowen@rac.co.uk http://www.rac.co.uk/

SHIPPING
UK to The Falkland Islands: Darwin Shipping Ltd, Crozier Place, Stanley, Falkland Islands, FIQQ 1ZZ Tel 00 500 27629. Email: Darwin@horizon.co.fk

UK office: Charringtons House, The Causeway, Bishop Stortford, Hertfordshire, CM23 2ER
+44 (0)1279 461630. http://www.the-falkland-islands-co.com/

Falklands to Punta Arenas Chile: Via The Falkland Island Company Ltd

Receiving Shipping Company Chile: Agunsa, Av Independencia 772, Casilla 60-D, Punta Arenas, Chile. Tel +(56) 61 241065. Email: mbuljan@agunsa.cl http://www.agunsa.cl/

Colombia to Panama: Diaduanas Ltd, NIT 830.093.753-7, Manga Cra 29 No. 28-29, Cartagena, Colombia. Tel 6609216/02

Receiving Shipping Company Panama: Seaboard Marine Ltd, Via España, Plaza Regency, Piso 12, Panama City, Panama, Apto. Postal 4369 Zona 5. Phone: (507) 210-9600Fax: (507) 210-9635. Contact Person: Joris Deruwe.
E-mail: jderuwe@seaboardmarinepanama.com Website: http://www.seaboardmarinepanama.com/

USA to UK: American Export Lines, Global Logistics Company, 13500S. Figueroa St, Los Angeles, CA 90061, USA. Tel 001 31- 523 2300. Email, info@shipit.com http://www.shipit.com/

Receiving Shipping Company UK: Kingstown Shipping Ltd, Ferry Birth, King George Dock, Hull, HU9 5PS. +44 (0)1482 374116. Email: info@kingstown-shipping.co.uk http://www.kingstownshipping.co.uk/

Update 18 Alaska to Las Vegas

2007-11-21T09:35:00.000Z

To Be Completed

UPDATE 17 - ALASKA PRUDHOE BAY 05 SEP 06

2006-09-09T05:09:00.000Z

ALASKA PRUDHOE BAY.
31 Aug 06 (Thu). Whitehorse – Fairbanks: Route 1, 2: 625 Miles

(Double click on the photos to enlarge them)

There was a fresh dusting of snow on the high hills around Whitehorse this morning with a crispness in the air that would require an extra layer of clothes. It was also the first morning that we had really ridden into the autumn with its vibrant colours of gold, bronze, yellows and every shade of reds and pinks. Riding along highway 1 through Destruction Bay and Burwash Landing alongside Lake Kluane in bright sunshine was a real pleasure as you can see from the photos.

We crossed the Canadian border at Beaver Creek into the US without a hitch and a friendly welcome, making straight for Fairbanks, to be ready for the final 500 mile push to Prudhoe Bay in the morning. We will do this over two days as we understand that the Dalton Highway or locally know as The Haul Road is not in great shape and it would be more than a challenge for a single long days riding.

01 Sep 06 (Fri). Fairbanks – Cold Foot: Route 2, Elliot Highway, Dalton Highway (The Haul Road): 270 Miles.
The Haul Road has surprised us; we had been led to believe that it was a graded track in poor condition that would require considerable care and time to travel. In reality, where it is a graded track it is generally in good condition and with very little traffic we were able to maintain a good speed. And what really surprised us was that the greater percentage of the road was paved making it any easy days ride, at only 270 miles today.

We crossed into the Artic Circle at 1600 hrs this afternoon in glorious sunshine at latitude North 66,33.345 longitude West 150,48.649 where everyone stops to have there their photo taken; we were no exception. The autumn colours continue to increase, vibrant and as varied as you’d get in the UK, with the countryside in this part so similar to Dartmoor or parts of Scotland. The only difference is that we do not have a massive oil pipe line cutting through the landscape and the temperature can drop to -40 degrees in midwinter.

Cold Foot Camp claims to be the furthest north truck stop in the world; it sits halfway between the civilisation of Fairbanks and the head of the oil pipe line at Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay and is the last fuel stop before you tackle the final 240 miles north. The original town of Cold Foot was founded in the summer of 1900, due to the gold rush, 5 miles further south of the current location. It is thought to have been names after a group of green Stampeders reached this point up the Koyukuk, then got cold feet and ran! The current Cold Foot camp was built on Slate Creek in 1970 to accommodate 260 workers who constructed the Alaskan State Highway in this area, and then accommodated workers who built the oil pipe line after the oil find in 1977. Its claim in the temperature range is that its coldest winter temp was -82 degrees Fahrenheit and the highest summer temp of +97 degrees Fahrenheit; a temp range of 179 degrees, that is some temp range!!

02 Sep 06 (Sat). Cold Foot – Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay – Cold Foot: Route The Haul Road: 480 Miles.
A very crisp start to the day with a colourful sunrise and good layer of ice on the bikes, but it was a bright clear and sunny morning for that final run to the top and journeys end (phase 1). Only 240 miles along the Haul Road riding higher into the autumn season as the colours became more vivid with the terrain changing as we approach the North Slope Borough and with it our first bit of mountain scenery for a few days. As we’d ridden north about 100 miles the clouds had started to form and we stopped before the first rise into the high ground to change tapes on the helmet cameras and zip up collars and cuffs as it looked a little colder.

Climbing the first slope brought us into the snow line with a light dusting on the track followed by a wall of freezing fog that froze the visors and cut the visibility to a matter of metres making this section very tricky as the oncoming trucks were oblivious to the fog and us!! Thirty miles later we cleared the fog and were on the wide open tundra of the far north. Flat and desolate from horizon to horizon; all that was visible was the oil pipe that was the reason for the road in the first place, hunters with bows and arrows as firearms are banned within a 5 mile corridor either side of the pipe, but someone had a couple of pot shots at the warning sign!

We spent only 2 hours in Prudhoe Bay as it is just an industrial site supporting the oil industry; unless you make a long stay to visit the industry there was nothing that really caught our fancy. Also, we had ridden up through some atrocious conditions, so we decision was to ride back to Cold Foot the same afternoon as we stood a better change of clearer visibility than waiting until the next morning. It was a good decision; after a hundred miles we left the overcast tundra and we were in bright sunshine and what we had missed in the fog in the morning was a superb ride in the snowy mountains with spectacular views and colours.

That’s it! We’d done it and we were on our way south, the first time that we have deliberately headed south in over 4 months with our objective achieved.

The declared end state has been achieved; the undeclared end state is still to be firmed-up. Do we go home or go on for some more and if so where? West to Magadan is not really an option as we’re too late in the season and have lost the weather window and haven’t packed enough winter woollies! A ride trans-Canada to Halifax Nova Scotia is an option, but the weather there is starting to chill quickly too. Back through the USA and then Christmas in Cape Town or somewhere in Africa is looking good. The critical factors for us to continue were; getting to Prudhoe Bay first, done that. Still to be talking to each other; most of the time. Do we want to ride anymore; yes. Is the weather on our side; in Africa it is. Are our wives still on our side; think so?

03 Sep 06 (Sun). Cold Foot – Fairbanks: Route The Haul Road: 270 Miles.
The Sun God is with us again today; an even sharper frost this morning but not a cloud in the sky and that’s how the day would remain. With the self induced pressure off as we’ve reached the top and the urgency has gone it was a very sedate ride south with frequent stops to take photos in this superb light and the spectacular colours. We even saw a bear on the side of the road about 100 metres in front of us but unfortunately it did not stay long enough for us to get a good photo; just its backside as it wandered back into the bushes.

04 – 05 Sep 06. Fairbanks.
We are now sitting in Fairbanks having returned from Prudhoe Bay via Cold Foot; time to change the tyres (again), wash the bikes (last washed in Bogota), bit of maintenance, catch up on the writing and decide what next? A new rear tyre for each bike was a high priority as the last 1000 mile took the treads down very quickly. The easiest way, but not necessarily the cheapest way to get the right size tyres for these bikes is to contact the local BMW dealer. We had already got the dealers details from the internet and made an appointment to have the tyres change.

It was a little bit of a surprise when we arrived at BMW Fairbanks! Now BMW are pretty anal about corporate image and presentation; so when we arrived at an overgrown wooded track with a BMW sign at the top we were a little surprised and as we rode into the Agency we were even a little concerned! But George, who had been running bike dealerships for over 40 years, said that he had the tyres, could change them and balance them too; all at a competitive price, in fact he was the only one with the TKC 80s that we wanted! It took nearly 4 hours for him to change two rear tyres, but he was thorough and diligent, making sure that the brake pads were still within acceptable thickness and decided that we should have the rear axel oil check as it’s his experience that not enough attention is paid to this, causing catastrophic failure! Although it was long drawn out process, it was a good lesson to us on how to change tyres and balance them without the sophisticate equipment of a modern garage. He said that he will be handing over the BMW Dealership, probably to Harley Davidson next year as its getting a bit too much for him, but I’m sure that he’ll still be tinkering with bikes, so if you’re in the area and stuck for help I’m sure he’ll be delighted to help, just make sure that you have plenty of time.

Good news, bad news. Just before we arrived in Fairbanks last Friday Mick S received a job offer that would be too good not to apply for but if he was successful it would put an end to the possibility of him commencing phase two. He was successful and got the job and will have to be home at the latest by mid November which means that phase 2 will not be on his radar…………..YET!

Journeys End, Phase 1, Cape One,
Arriving in Prudhoe Bay, our target destination to end this phase of our ride from Ushuaia Argentina, we have completed 22,000 mile in 135 days, covering the length of the continent of the Americas visiting 21 countries, including The Falkland Islands, but only 20 with the bikes, cause we didn’t take them to Antigua.

We are supporting:
Charity:
Macmillan Cancer Support – www.justgiving.com/MickDaly-Hereford

Schools:
Christ College Brecon - www.christcollegebrecon.com
St Richard’s Bredenbury - www.st-richards.co.uk

Some statistics:
Days away 135
Days Riding 85
Days not riding 50
Miles covered per bike 22000
Av miles per riding day 259
Fuel used in litres per bike 2228
Fuel consumption 9.8 miles per Litre or 44 MPG
Tyres used per bike 5 sets
Counties visited 21
Number of border crossings 31 entries = 4 x Chile, 4 x Argentina, 2 x Brazil,
4 x USA. 1 x the rest

Breakages in total:
1 x Rear view mirror
1 x Left & 1 x right cylinder guard
3 x Speedo cables
2 x Spotlight bulbs
4 x Touratech short reach rear indicator arms. 100% failure
1 x Clavicle
1 x Ankle #
1 x Handlebar throttle bracket
1 x Rear spray guard

Bashed in total:
1 x Fuel tank (slightly)
4 x Side panniers
1 x Windscreen (slightly)
1 x Crash bar
1 x Big toe
2 x Wallets

Our intentions next.
The aim of this jaunt was to ride two motorbikes from the southern most habitable city navigable by bike, on the planet; the city of Ushuaia in Argentina to the northern most point navigable by bike in Alaska; Prudhoe Bay, visiting every or as many countries as we can en-route. That done we will wander south through Jasper, Banff, Calgary and into the USA for a while until the middle of October 06. With Mick S destined for home, I have to decide what I will do; join him on the trip home, stay on this continent or go to Africa to ride home from the second Cape an our list; Cape of Good Hope?

UPDATE 16 - USA & CANADA 31 AUG 06

2006-09-09T04:59:00.000Z

THE USA AND CANADA

21 – 31 Aug 06.

(Double click on the photos to enlarge them)

21 Aug 06 (Mon). El Paso – Blythe: Route Interstate 10: 615 Miles:
A very pleasant cool start to the day; the coolest day since leaving Bogota a month ago! We are still trying to make best speed and have opted to riding up the Pacific coast; having crossed the Mexico border at Ciudad Juarez to the USA at El Paso we rode Interstate 10 (I10) all day through Tucson and Phoenix to Blythe, just inside the California state line. The cool start only lasted until midmorning when the furnace of the Arizona desert started to ramp up the heat. By midday it was cooler to ride with the full face helmet visors fully closed to keep the heat out as there was no wind chill at all.

During the various stops today, there was a lot of interest in what we were doing and lots of advice on routes that would be fun and interesting to take as we wend our way north. Lake Tahoe was a strong recommendation heading across Nevada through Las Vegas and all that desert too! A little later today while we were trying to hide from the sun for a few minutes another guy sought us out having seen the bikes and recommended heading through Los Angeles to the Pacific coast where the temperature would be about a cool 20 degrees C opposed to 35 degrees C ++ in the desert and the scenery is spectacular. As we were reaching the high 30s already and we have been devoid of good scenery for a while, it seemed to be no contest – go for the coast.

The other reason for heading to LA is that we have been put in touch with Aled who has offered us a place to stay overnight when we are in the area and the possibility of flying with one of the Helinet LA News helicopters. But Aled is returning from Australia some time tomorrow morning and the contact is a little tenuous!

22 Aug 06 (Tue). Blythe – Los Angeles: Route I10: 290 Miles.
Someone forgot to turn the blast furnace off last night! It was only marginally cooler this morning than it was last night and it was going to get considerably warmer as the morning progresses. It was a short run into LA, 290 miles, but traffic began to build up as far out as 29 Palms, which is over 100 miles out! We were hoping to get the bikes serviced while we did some sight seeing but the BMW dealer, who was also a dealer for all the major Jap bikes too couldn’t fit us in for another week. We’ll do that in San Francisco on Friday instead.

Contact was made with Aled just after he arrived from Oz and he invited us out to Helinet Aviation Services at Van Nuys airport to see their news coverage operations. Helinet provides the aircraft, pilots and some camera crews for all the major TV news channels across the USA using a range of helis, but all with very high tech stabilised cameras. They have helis on standby for that all important breaking news opportunity and tomorrow they are going to see if they can get us up for a flight too.

The company was founded by Alan Purwin who was the pilot of the 1980s TV show Airwolf. They also fly for film companies who need aerial filming such as Island, Pirates of the Caribbean 3 & Transformers etc etc.

Dinner was at a restaurant in the heart of the Hollywood scene (sounds very grand!) with a few of Aled’s friends one of whom is the girl from the Marlborough cigarette adverts. We walked Hollywood Boulevard and read the stars names on the walkway but didn’t bump into anyone we recognised as being famous; I’m sure they were out there though! Mind you, they didn’t recognise us either!

23 Aug 06 (Wed).

Today reminded us of days gone by; sitting on standby to crash out at a moments notice as we waited with the pilots for that news worthy call that would launch the helis. And what is news worthy? Well that’s up to the news channels to determine, as they are the ones paying for the flying time! We flew separate helis with Sky Fox 11 News Teams covering a siege being dealt with by the police, a brush fire threatening to engulf an expensive property and over flying LA international airport following a report of a construction strike but all seemed normal.

In the afternoon we had a ride out to Santa Monica and the Promenade beach in the hope of seeing Pamela Anderson and the Bay Watch beauties; didn’t see them, but did see some other beauties. Returning to Aled’s home we rode down Hollywood Boulevard and found Elvis hanging out with Marilyn Munroe, and looking very well on it too.

24 Aug 06 (Thu). Los Angelis – San Francisco: Route 101: 455 Miles.
The bikes have been booked into BMW at San Francisco for a service tomorrow so we’ll do this stretch in one go, up route 101 following the Pacific coast, dipping in and out of the sea mist which makes a huge difference to the temperature; one minute you’re melting, the next its brass monkey conditions! The scenery would have been great, we think, but the mist blocked most of it.

It never ceases to amaze me how small this world is; arriving in San Francisco we pulled off the highway to do a map check and deliberate on the route; a truck had followed us down and park behind us. Eventually we had to go and ask the truck driver for some help. Mick S went back to the truck to be met by “I wondered how long it’d be before you asked for directions” the English accented driver said! He had noticed the UK plates on the bikes and assumed (correctly) that help would be required, so pulled up behind us. Mick S got the directions to BMW and as he returned to the bikes a pick-up came along side, another Englishman offering help. He had gone to a school in the same town that I had!! BMW located and bikes left with them for servicing tomorrow we adjourned to a hotel ready for a bit of sight seeing tomorrow.

25 Aug 06 (Fri). San Francisco sight seeing. Seen the films; all those car chases up and down the steep ramps of the city, the trolley buses, Alcatraz, the harbour and the bridges. Well we rode on the trolleys and walked the rest, it’s as good as the films, but we didn’t see one car get airborne, how disappointing!A walk along the harbour front gives so many great photo opportunities that it’s impossible to print them all here; but the sea lions basking on the floating pallets just metres from the waters edge, behaving just like the ones we saw in Ushuaia; all grumpy, snapping and snarling at each other. The flight of the pelicans couldn’t be resisted. And this chameleon or is it an iguana? Anyway, are very tasty with a bit of garlic butter!

BMW completed the service for us as well as putting on the last set of tyres that we had been carrying from Belize. That should set us up for the run to the top of Alaska

26 Aug 06 (Sat). San Francisco – Roseburg: Route 101(Redwood Highway), 199, I5: 538 Miles.
We crossed the Golden Gate Bridge heading north on an overcast morning with the helmet cameras running, but it was not the success that we had hoped for. The best photos are taken from the side of the bridge and as our route to the bridge was quite obscured we did not get what we’d hoped for.

Route 101 contours the Pacific coast and as yesterday the sea mist was rolling in and out creating quite a change in the range of temperatures; couldn’t quite get the amount of clothing right!

We were cruising at quite a good pace when we’d set ourselves up to overtake one of those large pick–up trucks towing a big speed boat when a ginger cat popped its head up over the side of the boat, took a look, then jumped! Now this was at least an 8 foot drop to the road at 60 MPH! Not sure that it had its feet and knees together, but it hit the road, took the landing as it came, rolled a couple of times, on to its feet and off to what it thought was the safety of the centre reservation that was a concrete barrier. What it hadn’t counted on was me, closely followed by Mick S bearing down on it and we weren’t changing course. It managed to miss me by the skin of its teeth and over the centre reservation before Mick got to it. Hope it made it a cross the other carriageway safely. Not sure how many of its nine lives it had used up until that time, but by my reckoning it used at least 3 in those few seconds?

We got to Crescent City where we refuelled and put on some more clothes on as we were gibbering! That was a mistake; as we then took route 199 inland and into the warmth! Route 199 is a spectacular route, a winding road in a steep gorge with pine trees and a clear river. Half way along route 199 we crossed from the state of California into Oregon onto I5 and on to Roseburg for the night.

27 Aug 06 (Sun). Roseburg – Vancouver Canada: Route I5: 523 Miles.
The interstates, like motorways are an efficient way of getting from A to B but oh so tedious; even though we passed some of the largest cultivated areas that we’d seen on the whole trip and people actually working. Acres and acres of lettuce.

Mick S was lead bike today and I was just following along and by the end of the afternoon it was struggle to maintain concentration! But fortunately the US/Canadian border arrived sooner that we expected and the crossing was a doddle. Nothing to do on the US side and just a case of getting our passports stamped on the Canadian side, giving us a 6 month visa. We were a bit surprised that the US did not require us to book out of the USA after all the effort they go to control and identify everyone coming into the country; how do they know who’s still around?

CANADA
28 Aug 06 (Mon). Vancouver – Prince George: Route West 1, 99 (Sea to Sky Highway), 97: 494 Miles.

It’s so nice to be back in the snow capped mountains, running up the “Sea to Sky Highway” through Whistler with spectacular views and a winding road wending its way through the forests and alongside crystal clear lakes of turquoise water. The wild life was out to day too; a racoon crossed the road in front of us at a very leisurely pace and we stopped to watch a wolf padding down a stream bed, but it was too quick for us to get photo.

Prince George was the overnight stop and not an easy place to find a room as the Canadian basketball championships were being staged there and nearly all the rooms were taken!

29 Aug 06 (Tue). Prince George – Fort Nelson: Route 97, 39, 97: 532 Miles.
A wild life bonanza today, with Caribou, bison, fox, deer, squirrel, wild sheep or are they goats? But no bear!

The temperature has taken a serious nose dive. Hard to believe that two days ago we were riding in two layers, tee shirt and jacket; now we’re up to 6 layers! But the weather, albeit on the very cold side of fresh is clear giving outstanding views of the mountains and enhancing the colours of autumn. The further north we ride the greater the change in the season. Vancouver was still in late summer but Fort Nelson is definitely in early autumn.

30 Aug 06 (Wed). Fort Nelson – Whitehorse: Route 97, 1: 646 Miles.
The rapid onset of autumn continues as we move north and west towards Alaska with all its rich colours. The roads are desolate, not seeing another sole for mile after mile; this is true wilderness and it’s big. We thought that we’d seen some isolated and lonely places over the last few months and the USA is big but nothing has been quite so remote as these areas of British Columbia and the Yukon! Road conditions vary hugely, from smooth well surfaced to rough and bumpy and the wild life continues to be oblivious to the fact that man thinks that he owns the wilderness by driving a road through it. They do enjoy the warmth of the tarmac and the easy route that it provided; which is bonus to us as it’s a drive through zoo.

We are supporting:
Charity:
Macmillan Cancer Support – http://www.justgiving.com/mickdaly-hereford

Schools:
Christ College Brecon - http://www.christcollegebrecon.com/
St Richard’s Bredenbury - http://www.st-richards.co.uk/

Our intention for the next week. Did we achieve last week’s intentions, try to cross into Canada by 27 Aug 06. Yes just.

Next is to reach Fairbanks by the end of the week, 01 Sep 06.

UPDATE 15 - CENTRAL AMERICA & MEXICO - 20 AUG 06

2006-09-09T04:50:00.000Z

CENTRAL AMERICA & MEXICO

(Double click on the photos to enlarge them)

06 Aug 06 (Sun). Panama
Leaving Cartagena: As we left Cartagena yesterday there had been a visible increase in the level of Police and Army patrols on the streets of the city. As we drove to the airport, roads were closed channelling vehicles into an increased number of vehicle checkpoints for routine checks. The Colombian President has been re-elected and will be inaugurated this weekend which has raised the security levels around the country. Over the last couple of days there has been an increase in the reporting of improvised explosive devises being detonated causing the loss of life mainly to the police, as well as number of major finds of unexploded devises.

Security at Cartagena airport is high and probably routinely; all bags are search if they are going in the aircraft hold. The Army security screener asked if our baggage was for the hold or carry-on? We said carry-on and were directed to the check-in desk. Other passengers went through the process of having there bags completely emptied and searched. But all this and the subsequent searches that we went through were conducted with eye contact, politeness, conversation and humour, unlike Miami and the USA experience.

Panama City:
This morning we located the Panama City shipping office so that we can be there first thing on Monday morning and start the process for recovering our bikes. This afternoon we thought we’d walk to the old city and get some photos; unfortunately the heavens opened, taking shelter under a tree we waited for the storm to pass before continuing; but a few minutes later the heavens opened again. This time we were able to shelter on the walk way under a wide veranda where the rain created a curtain of rushing water screening the road. We did try to persist with the walk to the old town but sometime you’ve just go to call an end to folly; rain stopped play!

07 Aug 06 (Mon).
Due to a national holiday in Colombia our shipping papers had not been sent and would arrive on Tue by email. We were informed that we would also have to pay US$265 to have the container opened at Cristobal to get the bikes; this was a bit of a surprise as we had been told that all cost were covered in the shipping fee! We cannot do anything today and will have to return tomorrow, which starts to eat into our riding time!

We visited Bavarian Motors, BMW Panama City to see if we could get Mick’s bike checked as his engine management light has been on again. We are hopeful that the fault is due to a faulty rear light, but we need to check it before we head north out of Panama City.

08 Aug 06 (Tue). Colon – Panama City: Ruta: 60 Miles
The shipping agents had all the documents to authorise the release of the bikes by 1030, which meant that we could get a taxi to the port of Chrisobal on the Atlantic coast at Colon and start the retrieval process. Today was an outstanding example of bureaucracy doing its best to squeeze as much cash as possible from the punter! The first stop was the shipping company at the port who gave us an agent to take us around the various other agencies to try and secure the release of the bikes this afternoon. It was a case of being bumped from pillar to post around the customs offices to get letters of release written by one customs officer (backhander required) to be given to the customs officer at the next desk to try and complete a computer form and then try to get the head of customs to sign it before they all finished for the day. This took over two hours; it was a fine example of bureaucratically ineptitude and incompetence; and all the time the office junior, who must have been either the bosses son or the village idiot spent his time being a sex pest to the female staff and abusing the male staff – very strange!

Returning to the docks we thought that we had all the correct authorisations, but no, obviously an opportunity to squeeze a bit more cash! The bikes were cleared but the panniers were not, and time was running out to get the dock staff to deliver the container. More negotiating and a bit more cash seemed to do the trick. Pay the port fees of US$135, which was 50% less than we had been told it would be, what a nice surprise; container delivered, opened and the bikes were as we’d left them, in good order. Then as we tried to leave the port there was a problem with the paperwork; another US$10 seemed to clear that little problem and we were out and free for a wet and mucky ride back to Panama City.

During the five hours that it had taken to extract the bikes the heavens had opened to a torrential and sustained tropical storm, the sort that produced raindrops the size of eggs and soaks you to the skin in a second. We thought it was going to be a very wet 60 mile return journey to Panama City; but the gods were on our side, it stopped just before we departed, but it was still very damp. The final costs were; obviously to tip the agent who had “helped” us secure the bikes and the taxi that we though that we had taken off hire was still there! In all it cost the best part of US$400; will have to investigate the flying option next time!

09 Aug 06 (Wed). Panama City – Ciudad Neily Costa Rica: Ruta Pan American Highway (PAH): 240 Miles
You know that feeling, you have forgotten something, not done something or should be somewhere that you’re not? Standing at the mirror shaving the penny dropped, I hadn’t seen the big video camera this morning, or yesterday!!!!!!!! Then you start to do the mental back-track, when and where had I last seen it? I had not taken it to the port; it must be in the last hotel, which fortunately was just around the corner. Asking at the desk, ever hopeful, yes it was there and was delivered in moments, what a relief!

On the way out of Panama City we stopped at Bavarian Motors for them to check Mick’s warning light problem. The fault was the rear light and just needed a bit of work to repair the electrical connections. They spent an hour doing this and did not charge a penny, another very helpful and efficient BMW dealership. There was another Brit BMW 800 having some major work carried out on it, belonging to a girl riding the world solo.

The ride to the border having left the city and crossed to Panama Canal was straightforward on the PAH. As the afternoon approach we could see the build up of the afternoon rains and at 2 o’clock it hit us; we drove into a wall of water that reduced the visibility to metres and drenched us in seconds! Fortunately we found some protection in a bus shelter where we stayed for the best part of 30 minutes while the storm eased to torrential and we could see where we were riding! As we approached the Costa Rica border a solo bike was heading towards us; this time we all stopped and went for a coffee to exchange stories and advice. Lewis was riding a BMW 650 from his home in Canada through the Americas and then heading to Africa. Stories and advice exchanged, he gave us his Central America map that he no longer needed and had been given by another rider as he was approaching the area. Gratefully received as we did not have one, we will pass it on to the next rider we see going that way.

Our ride up through Central America was a rapid transit and a fairly uneventful event with each country very much the same as the previous and unless there was something of outstanding interest I will not be commenting. We did not take any photos either! The border crossings were all of a similar nature, an inept cluster of inefficient individuals purporting to be part of an official Government organisation. Unlike the border crossings of South America, where there were no charges, these were more like a cottage industry than an organised government agency, keeping as many people earning a bit of cash as possible and having travellers moving from official to photocopier to official to bank to official. For the first time we also experience that every crossing, both exit and entry had to be paid for. There was also a degree of blatant official corruption at each crossing too. It took more time to complete the formalities than it did to ride through Central America and it cost more in border crossing fees than it did in fuel!

10 Aug 06 (Thu). Ciudad Neily Costa Rica – Managua Nicaragua: Ruta PAH & Coast Road: 435 Miles.
We had been recommended by a customs officer yesterday to take the direct route north along the coast instead of staying with the PAH and riding through the mountains to San Jose. He did say that a section of this route would be on tracks but our bikes would be fine. The bit he didn’t say was that it was a muddy stone track about 50 miles and after rain would be like a skating rink! Never mind, all part of the fun slipping around on road tyres; just to hones the skills a bit!

11 Aug 06 (Fri). Managua Nicaragua – Honduras – San Miguel El Salvador. Ruta PAH: 270 Miles
While we were clearing the Nicaragua/Honduras border we met Sam, an Irishman riding KTM 650 from Ireland, through Europe to Turkey, Iran, Pakistan, Australia, the USA and from Central America to South America. He had been travelling for 10 months and had a positive view of the all the countries that he’d travelled through; Iran and Pakistan were particularly high on his praise list which is encouraging to hear; wonder if we should go that way?

During the last couple of months we have been in contact with Pablo who lives in Guatemala and was keen to meet and ride with us for a coupe of days if the opportunity arose. We had arranged to meet him in San Miguel this afternoon and if we arrived early enough we’d ride on to his house on the Pacific coast of Guatemala. We were running late after another slow border crossing and were making good progress through the traffic when we approach a police check point on the outskirts of San Miguel, we thought we were clear to drive through when at the last minute the police made a very positive order for us stop and pull over. More checks we thought; then a red Mitsubishi Evo pulled in front us and the driver got out pointing at us and speaking excitedly to the police - had we cut him up, was he a plain clothed cop? No, he was a friend of Pablo who had come out to find us and lead us to the hotel, but on his way out of the city he’d asked the police to stop us and either give us directions or lead us to the hotel; that was a relief!

Meeting Pablo, he said it was too late to ride to Guatemala; which was a huge relief to us as we’d crossed two borders today and our tolerance and patience for another crossing was not high. The plan was to stay in this hotel tonight and leave first thing in the morning for a 6 hour ride to his house. After a very pleasant evening sharing stories it was time for an early finish although David, the Evo driver wanted to take us out partying he knew some very exotic places; maybe next time?

12 Aug 06 (Sat). San Miguel – Iztapa Guatemala: Ruta CA1 PAH, CA2: 260 Miles.
It was going to be an easy day for us as Pablo was going to lead which meant that we did not have to navigate and could just follow the leader. El Salvador is a very densely populated country and traffic was bumper to bumper as we left the city and the obvious consequence of heavy traffic, poor driving and little observation of the rules was evident as we passed a police cordon where a cyclist had been knocked of his bike and killed, but left in the road waiting for other agencies to arrive to deal with the incident.

Crossing the border from El Salvador to Guatemala holds the record for the shortest crossing time so far; 50 minute, but that was with Pablo using his influence to get the Customs Officer to get the forms signed quickly. The last part of today’s ride included a couple of ferry crossings of the coastal mangrove swamps, which was another of those interesting experiences as you’re never quite sure that you’ll make it to the other side! The ferries were similar to the one we used to cross to Copacabana in Bolivia, but very much smaller and considerably less stable; as we made slight turn, the ferry flexed and one of the bikes shifted and came close to being tipped overboard!

We arrived at Pablo’s weekend retreat to be met by his wife Lucky and children (big children) Pablo, Marcela and Danny. This was a very nice weekend retreat indeed; set on an island amongst the mangroves and waterways of the lagoons around Iztapa. Lucky was offering snacks that were more than welcome but not until we’d showered and changed, she thought we smelt like goats, can’t possibly understand why; I’m sure we’d put clean shirts on at least three or four days ago and as the temperature was only in the high 30s….

Showered, fed and smelling more acceptable we were off with Pablo and Marcela in one of his boats for a tour around the neighbourhood, and quite a neighbourhood it is too. The Pacific Ocean was pounding the sand bar beach that provided protection for the community; this sand bar had once been the site of luxury houses and hotels but surf had gradually eroded the beach and the final act was hurricane Mitch that wiped out all of the sea front properties and the continual erosion is expected to take its toll on the next line of habitations in the years to come. Never miss the opportunity for a sunset shot as we made our way home pasted the pelican nest and the more elusive and unphotographable blue and green parrots!

This evening we were treated to a delicious supper cooked by Lucky of shrimps and Anacates mushrooms that can only be found in the forests of the Guatemalan highlands, with the conclusion to the evening being a tropical down pour that’s volume even surprised Pablo and thunder and lighting that was cracking overhead which turned into a bright electrical storm providing constant light without the thunder; very spectacular.

13 Aug 06 (Sun). Iztapa – Tikal: Ruta, CA9, CA13: 407 Miles.
With a glorious sunrise and light early morning mist to start the day, Pablo would lead today and ride with us as far as the El Rellend on the Rio Dulce where we had lunch and parted company, he would have a 7 hour return journey to Iztapa and we would attempt to cross the border into Belize. On the ride to lunch there was one of those hairy moments again; on a long sweeping right hander, bike laid over for the corner, without warning there as a large oil spill right on my line of travel. Both front and back ends slipped away left with alarming speed. I knew that this was going to be more than a challenge to get straight and there was potential for total disaster. I had to get it under control before I could do anything about controlling the speed and direction, just hoping that the road remained clear of traffic! Shut off the throttle and stay off the brakes; opposite lock to counter the left slide brought the front under control but sent the back end out to the right, opposite lock the other way sent the back out left again. I’d learnt from my motocross days that you have about three goes at straightening a bike when its fishtailing, then it will most likely dump you on the forth bounce! I was trying to identify my exit route too as I knew I was not staying on the road. The back end came back into line and stayed there, now I could steer and brake. There was a good run out on the apex of the corner, just to the side of a bar where a few fellas’ were enjoying a morning beer or two. Anchors fully deployed and steering for the point that what gave me the longest run without hitting something or someone I left the road and was on gravel; now, ABS brakes might be useful on a firm surface but cross country they’re about much use as an ash tray on a motorbike, they do not recognise the urgency with which you are hauling on the brakes and it stops you locking up the brakes which increases the braking distance enormously! Rather alarming!

The bike came to a halt inches from the wall which I was aiming at, thankfully and as it did it was off balance and I just stepped off it and laid in on its side, to be surrounded by the excited locals; not sure if it was because they were concerned for me, or for themselves thinking that they were going to get Beemer in their beer?

Mick S had been following me at this stage and his thoughts, from his diary, as this was unfolding were; “We were riding as usual on the edge, when Mick D hit an oil spill on a long right hand down hill bend. I saw the back end step out and immediately wound back on my throttle. All I could see was Mick’s bike fish tailing into the distance and out of sight. There was no way he would be able to hang on to it; there were three possibilities that flashed through my mind and staying upright was not on the list. I would see him coming back in the opposite direction on the front of a truck; he would be piled into a tree, ditch or something on the other side of the road or best case he would have high-sided, been dumped but stayed on the tarmac but no doubt done his shoulder damage again or worse. To my amazement as I crested the brow of the hill and rounded the bend he was laying the bike down and stepping off literally inches from a concrete wall and surrounded by a stunned crowd of blokes that had been sitting quietly having a beer. I pulled up and rushed across burbling something like “how the **** did you hang on to that!!” He composed himself and dusted himself down, lifted the bike upright with the assistance of the also amazed crowd and jumped on then we were off as if nothing had happened. We rode a few hundred yards down the road and Pablo was coming back to see what had happened, a brief explanation and we were back on our way”.

We had lunch at El Rellend on the Rio Dulce at the mouth of the Lago de Izabal a massive lake that is a major boating location, where the fish and turtles congregate under the wooden walkways of the restaurant ready to snap up any morsel that should be dropped to them causing the water to look as though its boiling with so much activity. It had been a great 48 hours in the company of Pablo and his family and he had one further piece of advice; the road from here to Flores was deadly in the wet as the surface is as slippery as soap; this advice he did repeat a few times just to make sure that we got the message! We parted ways and in no time the afternoon rains came in torrents and we slowed to a crawl in order that we did not test the limits of traction; done that in the morning.

14 Aug 06 (Mon). Tikal – Belize City: Ruta CA13: 175 Miles.
We had intended to cross into Belize yesterday but with a slow ride to Flores and being in the vicinity of Tikal, a World Heritage Site of the Maya Indians, we though that we should visit the site. I’m sure that we would have been given some grief from home is we’d ridden past it and not visited? This, as with Machu Picchu is an amazing feat of engineering, precision building on this scale is magnificent irrespective what it’s purpose was and as an tourist attraction it is well restored, with continuous archaeological explorations, finding and restoring new sites. Unlike Machu Picchu, we did not have a guide, just wandered around taking a few photos, enjoying the jungle and its sights and sounds, so we have no facts or figures to write about, you’ll have to look it up for yourselves! There was a troop of monkeys in the trees tops but too elusive for the camera, as well as the birds and bugs, but the turkeys were willing to pose. This has been the only jungle that we have seen so far on this trip as mass clearing is being conducted to make way for agriculture and development.

Crossing into Belize was doddle. Pay a few Dollars to the Guatemalans for the exit stamp (all genuine and above board) and enter Belize through there very friendly and efficient procedure. Ah, must be that good old Brit colonial influence? Just vehicle insurance to pay for once we had our passports stamped and we were in Belize City within two hours. What was noticeable from the last time I was in Belize, some 23 years ago was that the jungle had disappeared! From what I can remember the jungle came up to the road in many places but now it was all agricultural land! But Belize City hadn’t changed, still smelly and dirty.

11 Aug 06 (Fri). Belize City – Escarcega Mexico: Ruta 186: 486 Miles.
It may seem a bit of a detour to go from Guatemala City to Belize to then be heading back to the west coast of the USA? There were two reasons for this, one we wanted to visit as many countries as possible and two we had pre-positioned 4 sets of tyres via the RAF at the British Army Training Camp under the safe keeping of the Quartermaster. The joy of going to a British military camp is that you can get a cup of tea! While our tyres were being found we had our first cup of proper tea since leaving the Falkland Islands, and very nice it was too. It was only a short visit before we were heading north to cross into Mexico at Chetumal, pay US$15 to the Belizean authorities to exit and US$20 to Mexicans to entry Mexico, which was all very straight forward.

MEXICO
Mexico was a blur and blast along its biggest roads that were usually toll roads to avoid the Topes (speed bumps) that are placed with almost careless abandonment, in places where there seemed to be no reason to have one and often they we unmarked which meant sliding the bikes into them if seen in time or being launch out of the seat! It was the expensive, very expensive option but it was a very efficient method of covering a lot of ground quickly. We crossed the Tropic of Cancer without seeing a sign for it (if there was one) which was a pity as we missed the equator too. It was at about this latitude that the terrain started to change from the influence of the tropics and the jungle turned to the dry prairies and desert with searing dry heat and little or no humidity.

We did see a massive rain storm hovering on the edge of high ground one afternoon; it was unusual as it was just a column of rain; the edges were clearly defined with a rainbow, not in the conventional arch but as blobs at the foot of the wall of water! Trains were new to us too, big ones, we measured them at over a mile in length being hauled by up to 7 engines!

16 Aug 06. Escarcega – Veracruz: Ruta 186, 180, 145D: 516 Miles.

17 Aug 06. Veracruz – Victoria: Ruta 180, 81, 85: 484 Miles.
We took a well earned and needed lunch break at Tampico and ventured into a road side Dominoes Pizza. After the usual language difficulties Mick S thought that we had got the order placed. We took a seat and waited patiently when a girl asked in broken English to confirm our order as only a small Pizza and some chicken wings? She also, probably wanting to practice her English, asked us about the bikes, what and where we had been. Thought nothing more of it and our food duly arrived. We moved out to the bikes and while preparing to saddle up a young pizza boy ran out and thrust a yellow post it into Mick S hand and indicated it had come from someone inside. It read “Have a great travel. The world needs people like you, because you go for your dreams. Keep your adventure soul!” Presumably from the girl that had spoken to us? Mick S said that the rest of the ride was thought provoking as a result of this message; was this really a profound thing that we were doing, were we really adventurers with souls, does it really conjure up those youthful dreams that he thought he was the only schoolboy daydreamer, were we living our dream? It had a moving effect on him all day, that out of the blue someone would write that and he hoped it had inspired her to get out of flogging pizzas and do something, if that is the case then that’s great but we will never know.

18 Aug 06. Victoria – Chihuahua: Ruta 85, 40, 49, 45: 575 Miles.

19 Aug 06. Chihuahua – El Paso USA: Ruta 45: 244 Miles.
We left Mexico at Chihuahua and crossed into the USA at El Paso. We joined the queue of traffic waiting to cross and slowly inched our way forward for a couple of hours, being told by one very drunk pedestrian that we can jump the queue as we were on bikes. This advice we did not take as it did seem a bit necky! But sure enough he was right as a car driver told us the same and when a customs officer saw us he called us forward too. Clearing customs and immigrations was quite easy, even though Mick S said that I got my hackles up to early! Customs and Immigrations were friendly and more straight forward than the equivalent at US airports. They’d had a number of bikes through recently doing the same as us and though that we were part of a Trans-America race.

The first job to do in the US was to get bike insurance and after a few calls to insurance brokers; most of whom did know that Alaska was part of the USA we were put in contact with Harley Davidson Insurance (001 800 832 4449) and they were superb. Once we had established a US address that details could be sent to it was swift, efficient and cheap; US$90 for each bike, third party liability for a year covering us for the USA and Canada.

20 Aug 06. Admin Day in El Paso to catch up on the writing and laundry.

We are supporting:
Charity:
Macmillan Cancer Support – http://www.justgiving.com/mickdaly-hereford

Schools:
Christ College Brecon - http://www.christcollegebrecon.com/
St Richard’s Bredenbury - http://www.st-richards.co.uk/

Our intention for the next week. Did we achieve last week’s intentions? We crossed Central America and Mexico in 10 days, a total of 4133 miles averaging 413 miles per day.

Next is to reach the Canadian border by the end of next week, about 27 Aug 06.

UPDATE 14 - COLOMBIA - 05 AUG 06

2006-08-05T16:37:00.000Z

21 Jul – 05 Aug 06 Colombia

21 Jul 06 (Fri). Quito – Pasto Colombia: Ruta 35, 25: 230 Miles.
What time are they likely to set off for the border? That was a difficult one. We saw the Colombian group at breakfast yesterday at about 0830; was that their normal start time? Well if we have breakfast early we can then try and find them. Walking down the

corridor at 0710 we saw Matthias and Patty having breakfast already dressed for riding; confirming that the invitation was still open to us to join their ride north; what time are you leaving? 0730! Ah 20 minutes notice to move and we’re not fully packed and have to check out – plenty of time. Concurrent activity, Mick pays the bill, I start packing the bikes. We were going to give Albert a ring to warn him of the start time, but we could not find his number; thought it was on one of his cards; we should have confirmed it with him last night! They are all in the garage at various stages of readiness and we are packed, loaded and ready to go in time.

We should introduce them:

Matthias& Patty; Mauricio & Mari Jose; Juan Carlos & Laura;

The first stop was to refuel all bikes just down the road from the hotel. Now 5 bikes, we took places 4 and 5 and it was a 400 metre shake out; seeing who waited at red lights, who jumped them, how they rode together. It was then a simple route to exit Quito

One of the questions Matthias asked yesterday was “at what speed do you ride”? I said “up to 130 km hr, if the conditions are right”. “Oh you ride much faster than us”. Today that’s what we wanted, to have slow start to get the new tyres bedded-in and get used to this very strange sensation that road tyres give after 12000 miles on knobblies. It was the usual highway tactics of over/undertaking traffic and generally making best speed through the heavy traffic as we departed the city. Once clear and on the open road they just opened their throttles and were gone; must be the early morning blast to clear the cobwebs from the injectors? We went with them aware that we were riding faster than we really wanted to on new tyres!

One hundred Kms later we stopped at Otavalo a bustling market town that the girls wanted to do some shopping in, although there men said there was no room on the bikes for any more stuff! Did they listen, do they ever? Mick was now carrying ceramics, cloths, table cloths etc. I asked Matthias if this was their normal riding pace, he said it was and was sorry if we were being held back as they were considered slow riders amongst fellow Columbian riders? Held back! Christ, we could only just keep up; Mick was trying to run-in a set of knobbly tyres and I was just getting the feel of the road tyres! “But you said your average speed was 130 Kms Hr”! Something had been lost in the translation yesterday!

Two bikes have always be an attraction when we’ve stopped, but now we are 5 it’s quite a sensation. All the usual questions and some more, with the translation done for us (me) we were able to answer more questions and let the kids play on the bikes. The grin on the boys face is because he has been allowed to start the bike and is now revving it; the little girl behind is also enjoying it. Then it was, see how many kids you can get on a Beemer, only 4; they carry more on a Honda 90 in these parts!

We reached the Colombian border having continued to ride at the same pace through more outstanding scenery and the tyres were now well run-in, from rim to rim.

The border crossing out of Ecuador was the same as all the others and crossing into Columbia was straightforward too. Either Patty or Matthias accompanied us at all stages to interpret or give advice. We need two things once through the border to make us road legal; bibs with our registration numbers on as it’s the law to ride with a visible number on you and third party insurance. How fortuitous, just up the road from the border is a man who can – do bibs. An order was placed with him and we would return in 40 minutes to collect them. Mauricio took the lead in the border town of Ipiales to find insurance for us. One insurance office would insure us but only for a year, no less, but outside a girl said that her company could sell insurance too. Mauricio negotiated a deal, but the crunch was that she could not issue the certificates we would have to get them from Pasto, which was our overnight stop, how fortunate. No, the insurance must be registered before 1600; it was 1500 now and we were a good hour’s ride from Pasto. Could she register the bikes by fax and we’d collect the certificated before the Pasto office closed. This was a tricky one, she’d not done this before; but with Mauricio’s persistence and charm it worked. Collected the bibs and off to Pasto.

Another unknown town looking for an address what do you do; ask the ambulance driver sitting next to you at the lights. That’s what Juan Carlos did and got the ambulance to lead us there. Mauricio and I went to complete the arrangement while the rest entertained the crowd that had gathered around the bikes. A few wanted to sit on them but most just asked questions. The local paper even turned up and somewhere there is an article about the five bikes coming to town!

22 Jul 06 (Sat). Pasto – Cali: Ruta 25: 280 Miles.
Cali was our destination for tonight and the offer from Juan Carlos to stay at a Finca owned by a friend or relative or as planned a hotel? The Finca it was and a good choice too. The ride was as yesterday, fast and furious and getting maximum value across the whole radius of the tyres. It’s got to be a compliment to the tyres or is its Mick’s ability, but the Continentals are a good match for the road tyres. We met a few obstacle enroute, one being a small land slide that was spilling rocks and debris onto the road. Then plenty of road works. At one stop were given local fruit, the names of which I cannot remember but it was good. As we were about to set off Mauricio toppled off is bike; it must be an inherent BMW characteristic that they fall over when stationary? Or as Mauricio would say, it because his leg are just a bit too short!

Security along the Pan American Highway is a high priority for the Colombian Government and to maintain it there is a constant presences of the military. Either check points or static guards on nearly every bridge. Had we been riding on our own we would have slowed for each checkpoint but there was no slowing with this group! We didn’t even slow for villages or towns! We were sure that the double yellow line in the middle of the road were something to do with no overtaking but perhaps they were just to show where the centre of the road was! And those round signs with a red boarder and some numbers, like 30, could be a speed limit but didn’t seem to apply! If the road is clear or there is a gap, it must be yours so fill it or you’ll get left behind.

The Finca is a weekend retreat and was a superb place to overnight. It had a few animals, one being Tona the pig, she was a very friendly pig, especially if you had a bottle of beer. She would be fed 8 bottles a day!

It was a great evening and very generous of the owner. While we were talking to him and explaining our intentions; ride to Cartagena and ship to Panama, he arranged for us to be put in contact with Richard Hurtado who is a tour guide amongst other thing in Cartagena and could help us with all and any of our requirements.

23 Jul 06 Sun. Cali – Bogota: Ruta 25: 300 Miles.
It was the final push to Bogota today and we were going to ride La Linea. Now if we’d been warned of the danger of La Linea once we had been a hundred times! It is a mountain section of the PAH, is very steep with hairpins every few hundred metres; so far so good. But the danger is the heavy traffic, the diesel spills, the trucks using the whole road at corners, broken vehicles blocking the road; get the picture. And as if that was not enough, today is the end of a long weekend holiday and the last weekend of the holiday season too. So there will be an enormous amount of traffic.

Our first stop was at Buga to see the pink cathedral, an important Catholic site in Colombia. From there it was to the bottom of La Linea to refuel, have an ice cream and mentally prepare for the onslaught!

It was as described, but they had forgotten the chaos bit, every vehicle wanted to be the one in front because it had to get home first; but we were getting in front, being that much more agile, able to fit into smaller gaps and quicker off the mark too. Today took the whole meaning of safe and sensible riding took a new dimension. The stunts we pulled today will never be repeated on UK roads! If you could not get through by overtaking on the conventional side, around the left, and there was room to undertake on the right it was taken. Three abreast overtakes and last minute ones too. It took us an hour from start to finish, to climb the mountain and drop the other side, quite an experience and we’ve got it on video from one of the head cams. And all along the route were Police and Army check points; not one slowed for!

It was getting dark as we made our final run into Bogota; Mauricio was leading and although he says he has trouble getting on and off the bike, when he’s mobile, he’s a demon to catch as we rocketed into the suburbs at 100 mph; that brought us to the end of three very quick days. We did not think of ourselves as being slow or sluggish on a bike but we certainly felt like it riding with these guys. We just had to be grateful that they were a slow Columbian group!

24 Jul 06 (Mon). Bogota.
We stayed with Patty and Matthias and their two children, Stefanie and Matthias Junior although there was the same offer from Mauricio and Maria Jose. It was nice to stay in a home with homely things around you after three months on the road living in hotels of various standards. The hospitality and generosity was boundless; Junior gave up his room so that we could have room each. Matthias had already warned BMW that two bikes would be coming in for a service. Although Albert had done that too. Washing was done and meals prepared; we could get used to this. Matthias led the way to BMW Autogermana where we left the bike for a well deserved service and Patty came to collect us. She had wanted to take us to some of the museums but they’re all closed on a Monday. And the city was covered in cloud so a trip up the Teleferico and Monserrate to have a panoramic view of the city was a none starter too.

Matthias suggested the Salt Cathedral as an option. It was a Salt Mine that had been excavated further to create large chambers used as chapels and depict the life and death of Christ. The main cathedral chamber was enormous; with an illuminate cross and alter dominating it, changing colour every few seconds. They also had a chamber dedicated to the miners who had lost their lives during the construction.

We all spent the evening with Mauricio and Maria Jose at their home, having a barbeque and showing them the video of the La Linea run. Reliving those close shaves and daft antics!

25 Jul 06 (Tue). Bogota
The weathers good so it’s a whistle stop tour today and because Bogota has a system to restrict the number of vehicles in the city, Patty has to be out of the city limits by 1600 today. Off to the Teleferico and Monserrate for a view of the city and the Gold Museum, Junior come along too. You get to the top of the Monserrate either by the cable car, the Teleferico a Monserrate or the funicular railway. We took the cable car that gave an impressive view of the city as we whet up.

Next stop the gold museum. It was easier to leave the car at Monserrate and get a taxi into the city, but that was easier said than done. Taxis did not want to take us in to the centre. The gold museum houses a vast array of Inca and Indian treasures. Most of it intricate gold or silver jewellery and artefacts. Very much the style that we’d seen during our Machu Picchu and Nasca Lines visits.

Time was running out for Patty and we had to collect the bikes from BMW. The bikes were just being wheeled out to reception as we arrived. They were sparkling clean, filled with fuel and the extra oil was gratis as all oil is included in the service. Oh and they had a full service. Explanations of service finished and payment complete Patty was starting to get a little twitched that time was now very short.

She would lead us home with Junior checking that we are still in sight of her. After we had been drawn through a couple of red lights and changed lanes with out warning we were getting the measure of her driving tactics and just blocked two lanes behind her so she could move left or right at will and if the traffic was pushing from the side we’d go forward and block it too. We approach a major junction, three lanes going each way, controlled by lights and police; as we got the go no go point the lights turned red! Patty was in a dilemma; to stop would put her on the front row with the wrong number plate for the day and time had run out – a hefty fine. To jump the light would be a hefty fine too. She jumped the lights at which point the police looked at her, looked at us flanking her, blew his whistle hard to stop the other traffic and waved us through swiftly; how kind. We were now out of the city and could relax; no we’re still in Colombia, to relax would be folly!

As a way of thanks for the generosity and hospitality we took them all out for dinner as we were heading off early the next morning. Our chance meeting in the hotel garage at Quito has lead to 5 days of hospitality and friendship that will be difficult to surpass. Two total strangers accepted into this group and taken into the homes has been a highlight of this trip. Nothing was too much trouble, they researched shipping and air freighting the bikes, they made contacts for us so that we had someone to turn to for assistance; what more can we say other that a heart felt thanks.

26 Jul 06 (Wed). Bogota – Honda – Santa Marta: Ruta 45: 600 Miles.
On the road for 0630, farewells complete and Patty was giving us a lead to the main junction to take us from Bogota to Honda then north to Santa Marta. Other than dropping from 2600 metre above sea level to sea level in a very short time; riding in fresh air to riding in a blast furnace only to have some light relief from the heat when the tropical rain storms hit us it was a fairly straightforward and uneventful 12 hours and 600 mile! We were very glad to get off those bikes this evening in Santa Marta. Was it really that ordinary? Probably not but I just cannot write any more today!

27 Jul 06 (Thu). Santa Marta – Cartagena. Ruta Coast Road: 144 Miles.
A short run today, just down the coast through Barranquilla to Cartagena. Another short sharp rain storm and again there is no point in stopping for gortex as it was still warm. We rode straight into the old walled city to find a major land mark and then call Richard to see if he had any info on shipping to Panama. We parked at the rear of the Hotel Santa Clara, one of Cartagena’s finest hotels, a converted Convent, phoned Richard who arrived within minutes on one of the thousands of motorbike taxis; his first concern was had we booked into a hotel; no, this one is US$250 per night, this level of luxury is not on our radar! Good he had an apartment that we could rent for much less; well that’s a good start. Secure parking and a two bedroom apartment for US$80 per night, we’ll take it for two nights and the see!

Next stop was to visit a couple of shipping agencies to start the negotiations. All very tentative today, more info and confirmation tomorrow.

28 Jul 06 (Fri).
This morning Richard had come up with a new cunning plan, he’d been doing a bit of research for us and found a shipping company who would ship the bikes in a dedicated container for about US$2000. A dedicated container means we do not have the added problem of packing the bikes in wooden crates, all added expense and time. First we had to have copies of all our documents and that’s not as easy as going to a copy machine and getting copies! No you have to got to an authorise agent who copies the documents, stamps them, countersigns confirmation of authenticity, raise the la cuenta (the bill) and then passed for the final and official authorisation and authentication signature; that process employs 5 people! But at least it official!

Off to Diaduanas Ltda to see Neicy and see what they have to offer; complete service to include all official inspections clearances, papers; a dedicated 20ft container just for our bikes and all the shipping costs to Panama a hefty US$2000. With a bit of negotiating we got it down to US$1900; still a huge bill for shipping, but then we needed it and had little option than to go with it. And they do not take credit cards, which meant drawing 4,350,000 pesos in 20,000 pesos notes from the ATM, great wads of cash! The deal done, the container booked for us to load next Thursday, the ship would sail for Panama over the weekend of 05 Aug and we should see the bikes in the Free Port of Panama on Monday or Tuesday.

29 - 30 Jul 06.
As we are to be in Cartagena for a total of nine nights we needed some cheaper accommodation, so Richard came up with another apartment for US$40 a night; that’s better. It overlooks the beach and is on the pelican’s flight path. They glide past in single file, up to 10 of them at time just like A10 Warthog’s, the American tank busting ground attack aircraft, very surreal.

31 Jul 06 (Mon).
Richard has many irons in the fire and one of them is as a tourist guide and that was what we were going to do this morning. We started from our apartment in the Bocagrande area of Cartagena heading towards to docks, taking in the expensive residential areas and the old Spanish colonial houses that are now protected properties and cannot be altered or demolished.

The history lesson; Cartagena was discovered by the Spanish in 1501 and the city founded in 1533. The pirate Drake; surely they mean the revered and distinguished English sailor and explorer Sir Francis Drake; no they definitely have him down as a pirate; suppose its one mans freedom fighter is another’s terrorist or pirate! Any way he captured the city in 1586 and allegedly the Spanish crown paid him off handsomely to leave them alone; which he did. The Cathedral, Santa Catalina de Alejandria was built in the old city in 1575 and independence from Spain was granted at 1100 hrs, 1 Nov 1811.

The Santa Cruz de la Popa Monastery was built in 1607 on the highest point over looking the city by Simon Gonzales. Because of it strategic location and commanding view, fortifications for 3 battery’s of cannon were constructed just below the Monastery. This hill had been the domain of the leader of the runaway slaves who had been banished from the city. He had become a wealthy and influential gold merchant, the Spanish had named him Busyraco (the devil) and when the Spanish Inquisition arrived in Cartagena he was first on the rack for a bit of soul cleansing follow by a good bit of purification at the stake over slow fire of green wood! Oh yes, and the Spanish and the church took the gold for their troubles; a fare fee for a good days work!

Cartagena was steadily fortified with first part of the Castillo San Filipe built on the top of its hill to accommodate 20 soldiers to defend the city in 1656 -57. After it was sacked and recaptured it was improved and expanded from 1728 to 1763 to house 400 soldiers and 6 battery’s of cannon, with ramparts tunnels and escape route; an intricate piece of architectural and defence engineering.

Defence of the city was not left solely to the Castillo San Filipe but defence in depth was provided by the city walls, which had been a wooden stockade until 1614 and the Fuerta de San Sebastian del Pastelillo covering the bahia Cartagena. There were also numerous other defences strategically sited at the entrances to the bays covering the shipping lanes in and out of the enclosed waters of the Cartagena

Let me set the scene; its 1930 hrs; we are at Club de Pesco on the Fuerta de San Sebastian del Pastelillo on the waters edge of the Bahia de Cartagena. There’s a gentle breeze, the temperature is very pleasant and the water is millpond smooth. There is a clear dark Caribbean night sky with a waxing moon gilded with stars; a schooner draws alone side and guest board for an evening sail in the bahia. Music plays gentle in the background and the illuminated dome of the Santa Catalina De Alejandria Cathedral in the Old City is framed by the masts of the luxury yachts moored in the harbour. The fish was exotic and delicious, the wine fresh and chilled. Now, this is a place where our wives should be sitting across the table from us, not another Mick!

01 Aug 06 (Tue).
We had a stroll around the old city getting a closer look at its character and soaking up the ambience. The preserved history, like so much of the Spanish influenced part of this continent is fascinating. We took lots of photos, but the ones here are the Plaza Aduana, The city’s main gates, the city walls with canon and the Cartagena flag;

Sunset through the watchtower and over the pelican sculpture

02 Aug 06 (Wed).
Our loading time for the bike has been brought forward by 24 hours, which works in our favour as it gives that extra bit of spare time to sort out any last minute official problems that could occur. Richard has accompanied us as usual and giving us a lead from a taxi bike; we went via the Castillo San Felipe to get a landmark photo, then rode to the docks through a market on the waters edge with a stench so foul that it was hard to suppress the involuntary gag reflex and that would not have been fun in a full face helmet!

We were waved onto the weighbridge by our shipping agent Andres, from Diaduanas to start the documentation process, then off to the secure compound to wait for the Aduana (customs) and Narcotics Police to inspect the bikes before loading and lashing into our container. We would have to come back this afternoon

Returning to the docks we were subjected to their thorough security screening, authentication and search. Although this was a bit laborious, it is understandable, but rather defeated when we just drove the bike all the way in this morning without this scrutiny! Once in it was the Narcotic Police who had to be satisfied that we were clean and not carrying anything untoward. We emptied all of the panniers for him to inspect and search as he felt necessary. He seemed to quickly satisfied and it was a repack and load the bikes. This was a self help process; unlike the Falklands when we handed the bikes over to Eva Jaffray and the safe care of her guys at the harbour, to see them again in Chile all snugly packed with protective airbags and tightly windlassed lashings so that there was no chance of movement. Here, the dock crew started to lash the bikes, but it was obvious that they do not load freight like this very often, so we took over. A sea container is a bit tight to work in when you’ve got two bike side by side and with the external temperature in the mid 30s it’s a sauna inside; lashing finish and it looks like a cats cradle; hope the Caribbean is calm for the crossing? The last action is for the Narcotic Police to confirm that the Aduana has cleared the consignment and he seals the container. All loaded and the paperwork to be collected on Saturday before we fly to Panama.

03 - 04 Aug 06.
Spent at the keyboard catching up on the last couple of weeks, surely we should be on the beach enjoying the sun sea sand and the view. Made a rod for our own backs, all this writing!

05 Aug 06 (Sat)
Without Richard’s help and assistance over the last week we would have spent a great deal of time just chasing our tails trying to workout what had to happen next and how and where to achieve it; many thanks, we are very grateful.
He is now chasing up the final shipping documents that we need to have in our possession before we depart for Panama this afternoon.

Our Comment on Colombia: It was not on our country visit list at the start of this trip, but all the recommendations given to us first hand was that it was country not to be missed. Yes there are security issues; as I’ve been writing today there have be news reports of explosions in Cali, bombs found here and there etc. But we used to live with that threat from our own home grown terrorist groups and it did not stop us going about our business! The people, not just the ones we’ve been riding with have all been friendly, helpful and honest; on three occasions I handed over too much money and was returned the excess because they noticed the error not me. By selecting the locations and times of day to visit it is a country steeped in history, beaches and warm weather that has a lot to offer the tourist. Not to be complacent, but also not to be frightened of the shadows, by taking sensible precautions trouble should avoid you; except in the exception!

South America Done: That’s South America completed. We did not get to see The Guyana’s, Surinam, Venezuela and we only clipped Brazil but it has been an outstanding area to visit by bike. The almost unrestricted riding, the scenery, flora and fauna, the people and probably what has had the greatest influence, but little attention paid to it has been the weather. Until we entered Columbia on 21 Jul 06 we had been wet twice while riding since leaving the UK on 20 Apr 06. We’ve been wet nearly every riding day since then; but at least it’s warm rain! Would we come back? Yes, but not until we’ve done the other Cape!

We are supporting:
Charity:
Macmillan Cancer Support – http://www.justgiving.com/mickdaly-hereford

Schools:
Christ College Brecon - http://www.christcollegebrecon.com/
St Richard’s Bredenbury - http://www.st-richards.co.uk/

Some statistics:
Days away 107
Days Riding 54 = 50%
Days enforced rest 28
Miles covered per bike 12600
Av miles per riding day 233
Fuel used in litres per bike 1320
Fuel consumption 9.5 miles per Litre or 43 MPG
Tyres used per bike 3 sets
Counties visited 10
Number of border crossings 21 entries = 4 x Chile, 4 x Argentina, 2 x Brazil, 2 x USA. 1 x the rest

Breakages in total:
1 x Rear view mirror
1 x Left & 1 x right cylinder guard
2 x Speedo cables
2 x Spotlight bulbs
4 x Touratech short reach rear indicator arms. 100% failure
1 x Clavicle
1 x Ankle #

Bashed in total:
1 x Fuel tank (slightly)
4 x Side panniers
1 x Windscreen
1 x Crash bar
1 x Big toe
2 x Wallets

Our intention for the next week. Did we achieve last week’s intentions to visit Columbia; oh yes. Next is to clear the whole of Central America up to Belize within five days of getting the bikes out of the shipping container and on the road in Panama!

UPDATE 13 - ECUADOR 20 JUL 06

2006-08-05T16:06:00.000Z

18 - 20 Jul 06. Ecuador

18 Jul 06 (Tue). Loja – Quito: Ruta 35: 440 Miles.
One of nice things that we noticed as soon as we crossed the border from Peru to Ecuador was that there were regular road signs, which meant that as you approached a junction yon knew which way to turn. And as we arrived in Loja last night we passed the road sign for Quito which was our destination today. Back tracking this morning through Loja from the hotel to the Pan American Highway (PAH), Ruta 35 seemed quite straight forward, but as the fully paved road turned to a graded road and this was still in the city we started to have doubts! Stopping to ask a local; yes this is the way to Quito and on we continued. The graded road then reduced to stoned track; confidence not high, we asked again; oh yes you’re on the right road! Stone track deteriorate even further and now we are certain that we are not on the PAH. Stopping a car for directions we were told that we would reach the paved road in 30 minutes; and sure enough we did. It was not PAH but an alternative route that took us along a valley floor following a river with small pockets of habitation. It may not have saved us any time; it did save us 10 miles and the opportunity to ride through some very picturesque scenery.

Back on tarmac, it was now raining; only lightly, just as it had yesterday evening as we arrived in Loja. It was time to don gortex, not just for the rain but it was also a bit chilly too and the extra layer would make the ride just that bit more comfortable. The road was generally in good condition but it would, without warning open to gaping holes that were not easy to spot and on a few occasions there was an almighty bang as the front wheel hit the far side of the hole sounding as if the tyre had been completely compressed at point of impact and the wheel rim had taken the full brunt of the hit; that would be swiftly followed by the rear wheel following suit! At one of these holes Mick thought that he had caused damage to his rear wheel rim; it was such a hard hit, the wheel felt buckled. On close inspection it did look to have a flat spot; that would not be much fun to ride the next 350 miles on. But as it happens, it was an optical illusion; where tyre had flattered and spread over the side of the rim it had polished it, giving the appearance of distortion. That was a relief! At this point it probably worth giving BMW a bit of praise; these two bikes were bought for the purpose of transporting us through the Americas. They have stood-up to some very hard work; we have dropped them off there stands while stationary, thrown them the floor at speed, bounced them into and out of big holes and bottomed out the suspension on a number of occasions; and they still come back for more, with only minor cosmetic damage and thankfully no mechanical damage! They are an extremely robust machine. They are sure footed and give great confidence to the rider when things get rough.

The lunch break was at a high viewing point over looking the city of Cuenca, where there was Columbian tourist. He engaged us with the usual questions and then the one, “are you riding through Columbia?” Our stock answer has been “we’re not sure yet?” We know that we can ship or fly the bikes out of Ecuador, over Columbia and the Darien Gap; we would like to ride Columbia but what of the security issues. His advice was to visit Columbia, it is a beautiful country and providing we take reasonable and sensible precautions there is little likelihood of us bumping into problems. This type of advice has been consistent as we have ridden up through South America. Yes there are dangers in Columbia, but then there are dangers in the inner cities of the UK too; it’s just proceed with do care. Our final check and point of go-no-go will be in Quito.

As the evening sun was setting we were running up the western side of the Parque Nacional Cotopaxi and on our right, slowly turning pink as the sun set on it, was with the Cotopaxi volcano. While Mick was taking photos a local on a motorbike came alongside him and did the usual list of questions and then offered us accommodation should we require it, instead of riding the next 100 kms to Quito; nice offer.

Arriving at Quito, another city in the dark; we were heading for the centre looking for the Sheraton; we do vary our standard of accommodation, uggs, bugs and cockroaches one night and the lap of luxury another. We ended up in the Old City not sure of where we were going, so it was time to ask a policeman and this pick-up full of cops gave us an escort out of the old city; stopped at a set of light and said just follow the trolley bus lines and you’ll see it in front of you; can’t miss it. Don’t you just hate it when a local says it’s just down there and you can’t miss it? Miss it; hadn’t got a clue. Sitting at a junction just about to flip a coin to decide whether it was left or right and pedestrian asked if he could be of help; yes please. Good directions and off we went, only to be hassled within 300 metres by a pick-up trying to cut us up. No, he wasn’t, it was the pedestrian who obviously had little faith in our ability to follow his simple instructions; he had jumped into is pick-up and when he came alongside he just indicated for us to follow. Straight to the hotel; we didn’t even get the chance to thank him. Another 11 hour day!

19 Jul 06 (Wed). Quito.
The reason for the ride to Quito is two fold. Firstly it is likely to be our point for shipping the bikes to Panama if we do not ride through Columbia; and secondly we are going to meet an old friend Pete Walker who has been working there on and off of years and knows the place so it should be a very good social stop. Pete also put us in touch with Albert Crutcher, a Brit Expat who owns two bars, The Turtle’s Head and Busters. Albert is a keen biker, starting life as a London dispatch rider; good grounding for riding in this part of the world. He has been giving us good advice about places to visit, routes and hotels as we were coming up through Peru and he was hoping to be riding with us to Cali Columbia if he could get the time as he’s got a KTM Adventure, done the trip before and fancies a ride out with some else.

By the time we’d sorted ourselves out it was midday; Pete had given us address of the Turtle’s Head and thought we’d get a bit of exercise and walk there. Just around the corner parked on the pavement was a KTM; yup, Albert’s got one of those; “hey you two’ I know you two” came a jock voice from inside the door to this bar! We had not released that Albert’s other bar, Busters was so close to the hotel; how fortunate. An afternoon supping beer, swapping stories and getting advice about Columbia, how pleasant; Pete arrived at the end of the afternoon and upped the tempo, surely not to catch up? A short break was taken before we relocated to the Turtles Head to continue the motion and to be joined by Matt, Hugh and his wife Doris; all offering help and assistance where they could and more alcohol! It made a very nice change to have a social evening with others, speaking English, keeping up with the quick fire banter. And all too soon it was 1 AM, where did the day/night go?

20 Jul 06 - Quito
We had a RV with Albert this morning at 0900 to get the bikes washed and checked over by one of his staff who was very handy. Well, 0900, fine, but with a hangover, slowly, slowly. This, apart from the week with our wives in Antigua, was only the second hangover of the trip due to a social evening; the last one was with Sharon Jaffray in the Upland Goose when we did the interview for the Penguin News!

As we were preparing to leave the hotel garage we met 3Columbian couples, Matthias and Patricia, Mauricio and Maria Jose, who had ridden from Bogota on BMW 1200 GSs and Juan Carlos and his girl friend Laura from Cali on a Suzuki V-Storm. They were riding back to Columbia tomorrow and asked if we would like to ride with them and stay with them in Bogota; what a great offer! We were non committal at this stage as we were not sure that we would have completed the admin on the bikes by then; but it was an open invitation, if we did not ride with them just give them ring and come and stay if we were in Bogota.

Albert’s guy’s did a superb job getting weeks of engrained dirt off the bikes and checking nut and bolts from end to end. Sparkly bikes just needed some new rubber now; get rid of those Metzellers (knobbly tyres) that we fitted in Salta, have done 4000 miles on them and not enjoyed them at all. Right from our first ride on the Metzellers we were not confident in there ability to hold their own on tarmac. Even after 400 miles of tarmac in Argentina they did not improve. Ragging them over 200 mile of graded track to Potosi did seem to give them more traction on tarmac the next day, but they did not give us the sure footed confidence of the Continental TKC 80 (knobbly tyres) that we started with. We were still carrying a full set of TKC 80s and a front too. The set would be fitted to Mick’s bike and Albert did a lot of phoning around to try and find either a single rear knobbly or a pair of dual purpose tyres for mine. BMW Quito had tyres but at a shocking price, next one please! Albert found tyres and having stripped all the wheels of both bikes he took us to get them fitted. Instead of mixing tread types I bought a pair of Dunlop road tyres, a bit narrower than stock but I was assured by Albert that they would work fine and would make the bike turn quicker. Bikes all complete and a strong recommendation from both Alberta and Pete that we should take up the offer to ride with the Columbian group as they would be able to give us help should we need it; all we had to do was find them; that was easier said than done – couldn’t find them!!

It was a more sensible evening, dinner with Pete and a nightcap at the Turtles Head, oh and one or was it two for the road! We are going to try and catch the Columbians in the morning at breakfast and Albert would ride with us to the border too. It all hinged on finding them!

Our thanks to Albert for all his help, advice and hospitality while we were travelling up through Peru but mostly for our short stay in Quito. Our recommendation is that if you venture to Quito look up Albert at The Turtle’s Head, La Nina 626 y Ave. Amazonas or the turtleshead@hotmail.com.

We are supporting:
Charity:
Macmillan Cancer Support – http://www.justgiving.com/mickdaly-hereford

Schools:
Christ College Brecon - http://www.christcollegebrecon.com/
St Richard’s Bredenbury - http://www.st-richards.co.uk/

Our intention for the next week. Did we achieve last week’s intentions to visit Ecuador; yes, but perhaps had not thought it would be quite the whistle stop that it was. Next week it’s Columbia and aiming to ship to Panama.

UPDATE 12 - PERU - 17 JUL 06

2006-08-01T16:54:00.000Z

10 – 17 Jul 06 PERU.
10 Jul 06 (Mon). Copacabana, Bolivia – Cusco, Peru: Ruta 3S: 345 Miles.
Another 0500 start to the day! Yesterday Mick wanted to get some photos of the full moon as it set on the far side of Lake Titicaca but it disappeared too quickly. So this morning we were set; camera mounted on the tripod last night ready to go. The alarm ensured that we did not miss the moment! This morning the moon was much higher in the sky at 0500 and it wasn’t until 0630 that it finally slipped over the edge of the mountains. We also wanted to make a hasty exit as we were advised that it would be an eight hour ride to Cusco.

Another crisp bright morning, scrape some ice off the seats and we were off to the Peruvian border. Clearing immigrations and customs on the Bolivia side was a straight forward set of stamps for the passport and hand over the temporary importation documents for the bikes that we picked up when we entered Bolivia. Then the police had to document our exit too; not a difficult task, but when complete, a straightforward request for money, but using the excuse that it was for the Religious Idol on the wall behind him, another pagan god of travel; it would give us good luck for our journey and he would prefer US dollars! With six dollars lighter and a silent travellers blessing from The Madonna on the wall we departed to the Peruvian side.

The Peruvian immigration’s officer was up and awake and processed us with a smile and a stamp. The custom’s officer was still to shake a leg and when he did it was to join the National Flag raising parade which all the border officials attended under command of the senior police officer. Nice to see a flag raised in style and with due respect. The custom’s officer gave us the forms to complete, which is unusual, but when he came to transfer info into his ledger we understood; he was as blind as a bat and almost had his nose on the page to see the writing. Now for the police! This was the first person to put the “2” together; 2 Michael’s on 2 white identical BMW’s, it amused him; are we like Tweedle Dee and Tweedle Dumb or probably more likely Hinge and Bracket? Then the request for money! Do all the Police demand money to let you through, are they all poachers turned game keepers or still poachers? All in good humour they got $6 too and wished us a good journey. Mick’s more benevolent take on it was; if you think of it as a tip for a service completed, just like a waiter, it doesn’t feel like you’ve been fleeced!

The road conditions have now changed considerably, we are no longer the only ones on the road and the luxury of having it to ourselves has gone. There is also constant habitation, we are never out of sight of some form of dwelling, people or traffic and the road surface is very old and in poor condition. We crossed the border at Yunguyo and headed North West to Puno which is a major tourist attraction with reed beds and floating villages etc; our only requirement was to get some cash from the ATM. Finding the main Plaza, Mick stayed with the bike while I went for the cash. As usual the bikes were quite an attraction and to cap it Mick was interviewed by Puno TV. He explained in his best Spanish what we were up to, but he got the distinct impression that the cameraman was bored of the slow, laborious process of trying to extract information from his broken Spanish; “surely there must be a children’s concert that we can film instead”!

Juliaca was our next major city enroute and with it some sporting riding, dodging a new mobile and agile opponent, the three wheeled powered taxi and the pedalled variety too. As taxis the world over, they know where they want to go and will just go for it! Some serious blocking tactics were required here with an added measure of robustness! La Paz tactics plus the threat of a pannier backed up by 350 kgs of Beemer slapping their front end seemed to give us just about enough room to stay in a straight line.

Mick continues to be lead scout for me so that he can let me know where the road dangers are and I can manoeuvre round then or follow him in to it and brace or relax as required. But a new hazard; riding along a straight road with good visibility, Mick moved to the far left of the carriageway to pass a cyclist, who, without warning turned left into Mick’s path when he was 20 metre away. No time for too much arithmetic: slow down and definitely collide, accelerate and contact might not be made. Mick missed him by hairs breadth and the cyclist continued without a change of pace of direction; these are getting very close!

Arriving at Cusco which is the regional capital and our jump off point to visit Machu Picchu we found a hotel and someone to sell us a trip to the religious site for tomorrow at what seems an exorbitant fee.

11 Jul 06 (Tue). Machu Picchu: Railway: 145 Kms.
Another early start, collected at 0530 for a 145 kms, 4 hour train journey at 0600 to Machu Picchu. There are many ways to get to Machu Picchu, but as we were late arriving at Cusco and had allocated one day only, our options to negotiate were limited and as the write ups said the train was a good way to visit Machu Picchu, so we did. Heading North West climbing out of the city on yet another heavily frosted bright morning, the train negotiates 4 switchback junctions in order to climb to 3700 metres then slowly descend 1700 metres to Aguas Calientes following the Rio Urubamba through river gorges, tunnels and high snow capped mountains of the Sacred Valley. Get the picture, more wonderful scenery? An observation as we rode through Peru yesterday was that the dogs we not interested in chasing us! There were many more dogs that we have seen of late but they seem indifferent and just sit on the side of the road at regular intervals as if they are a line of guards. But today the wheel chasing dogs were back and at full tilt! As the slow train wound its way along the narrow track with tight turns we saw a dog chasing the front wheel of the train, trying to get hold of it; obviously a wheel is a wheel weather attached to a bike or a train and its all fair game – good effort.

Machu Picchu Pueblo (previously called Aguas Calientes is the tourist hub, where all tourists congregate to be transported up to Machu Picchu by a fleet of buses, seeming to be run with military precision. Another rapid ascent from 2000 metres to 2450 metres (up and down like a yoyo!) to meet Louie, our guide for the morning. He was very good and agile too skipping up the steep steps trying to get us to his tour start point quickly! Machu Picchu is so well documented that I will not give you a history lesson but to get the salient points across and to set the scene and using Louie’s interpretation of the history and archaeology; Machu Picchu is located in the Sacred Valley known as Vilcamayo, 80 kms north west of Cusco. The traditional Inca trail was from Cusco to Machu Picchu serving as its supply route, with supplies being delivered by men carrying 56 kgs each, taking just two days to cover the distance. The Inca trail is now limited to 40 kms for tourists taking 5 days. Machu Picchu is a religious site and named after the mountain on which it sits. The term Inca is not a tribe or people it is a king and the Inca was king of the Katcha Tribe. Machu Picchu was built as the religious centre of the Inca’s empire which had a population of 7 million at its height and stretched from Ecuador to Chile, from the Pacific Ocean to parts of Bolivia and Northern Argentina, When the Spanish arrived in the early 1600s and learnt of the Inca’s wealth they made moves to destroy the Inca and his tribe taking its wealth for Spain, but before the location of Machu Picchu could be compromised, it was abandoned with all it’s inhabitants moving south into the jungle and building Bilca Bamba which was found and destroyed by the Spanish around 1670. The irony was that Machu Picchu was never discovered by the Spaniards.

Compared with modern religions the Inca worshiped the Sun, Earth and Water; representing fire, fertility and life; which intern was accessed through the Condor who represented the higher spirits, the Puma who represented the earth’s living life and the snake that represented the spirits of the underworld. Great importance was made of these gods and worship was guided to each to fulfil the needs of the people. Llamas were sacrificed to Mother Earth and their heart used to predict the outcome of the coming seasons. The special relationship between the llamas and the gods meant the llamas within Machu Picchu were sacred and could not be used for meat and there are16 llamas roaming freely over the site today; they have a dual purpose, good for the tourists to get photos with and a constant mobile mower keeping the acres of grass short. Was their religion so wrong; you could see it, touch it, see it, taste it and hear it, but the Spanish slaughtered it to replace it with a mythical god that we are expected to believe in, but have no evidence of?

Machu Picchu lay undiscovered until 1911 when Hiram Bingham came across it; it was a ruin then but has been reconstructed over the last 80 years to show its original layout and function. As a tourist site it is very well run and controlled, with a recommendation from us that a guide is a must have, to get the maximum value from a visit. But the guides do seem to have their own interpretation on the history as we found while listening to another guide explain the same object that we had just seen; but I suppose its close enough for our needs. In the high season, which is now, they expect up to 2000 visitors a day, but its down to 800 – 1000 at this time; the reason being put down to the Football World Cup! It is a fascinating place to visit and should not be missed if you’re in the area.

We had a late return train which meant that most of the journey was in the dark; but there was entertainment by the carriage staff. First was a tradition tribal dance followed by a fashion show of locally produced Alpaca wool clothes. The aim was probably three fold, entertain the passengers; which it did, show off local produces and attempt to sell them. It was very light hearted and killed on hour or so of a slow dark climb back up to 3700 metres. Could you imagine any of the British rail companies doing this; Branson, something for you to consider!

12 Jul 06 (Wed). Cusco – Nasca: Ruta 3S, 26A: 450 Miles.
Hairpin heaven or hell? Yet another early start today, on a fresh crisp morning, 0630 on the road as we have 450 mile between us and Nasca near the coast. Dropping from 3700 metres above sea level (ASL) to 1800 ASL it warmed up nicely to the point of stripping off our fleeces and cold weather kit. The run down hill following the Rio Apurimac was through rich pastures with cattle being the main industry. Lots of sweeping hairpins and some very tight too for a fun ride down hill and along the valley floor and we thought that it was going to be a straightforward day sitting back for a relaxing ride! Once we had crossed the Rio Apurimac and climbed to Abancay where we refuelled, we understood that it would be a more demanding day than anticipated. From our map, we could not determine that from Cusco to Nasca we would be cross graining over a series of mountains the would take us up and down from altitudes of 1800 to 4500 metres ASL, then to sea level. At the start of the day it was sheer bliss, sweeping bends, 180o hairpins uphill and down dale; but where does joy turn to tedium? Probably after your first one hundred turns with as little as 300 metres between bends; spending much of the day in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gear not getting above 30 – 40 mph much of the time. It’s another bit of road that the sports bikes would have had a field day on, except for the lack of fuel stops for their small tanks!

We refuelled at Puquio at 1500 hrs which is a town that seems to have no reason to be there. You arrive on tarmac and as you enter the town the roads turn to dust and rubbish, it is a sorry excuse for habitation and that would appear to be the local councils view as it had no visible amenities. When as you exit the town you’re back on tarmac! Climbing to our highest point of the day, 4500 ASL we were back in Llama country and the mountain people who herd them.
The conditions of these people appeared to be more austere than the other mountain habitations that we have passed. Riding at speed along a straight flat piece of road two llamas ran from behind a mound of earth directly into Mick’s path, when they realised that they were about to collide with a vehicle and could not stop, they skidded on their hooves and dropped to their knees in order to reduce their velocity, sliding behind his bike; that is the third close call and each one was closer than the last! We were to be thankful that they were llamas not sheep; had it been sheep they would have attempted to get between the wheels assuming that they were agile enough to get under the engine too!!

As we got to the end of the last set of mountains, it was down hill all the way to Nasca. At 1700 hrs we were heading due west into the setting sun, which on any other day would have made for some fantastic photo opportunities. But after 400 miles and 10 hours of hauling bikes around hairpins we were exhausted and it was showing in our riding; a couple of close calls on downhill hairpins, riding into the sun and missed judged the severity of the turn nearly had us running out of road with a very long drop to the next bit of firm ground. It took a conscious effort to slow down and accept that we would have to finish the ride into Nasca in the dark. Nasca reached and after the usual couple of turns around the main areas we found a good hotel to secure the bikes and get some well earned rest.

13 Jul 06 (Thu). Nasca Lines
The credit for the discovery of the Nasca Lines has been attributed to the German Born Dr Maria Reiche who spent 50 years studying the ancient markings and trying to decipher them. As for Machu Picchu, the Nasca Lines are well documented; it is about 500 square kilometres in size with a series of animal figures and geometric shapes, none of them repeated and some up to 200 metres in length. There are many theories as to there origin and meaning, from the alien navigation and runway theory to the agricultural calendar to help to regulate the planting and harvesting of crops as well as all the others.

The best way to see the Nasca Lines is from the air or to get a limited view from the viewing tower on the Pan American Highway. We opted for the aerial view to get the best view; arranged by the hotel, we were collected by taxi for a short ride to the local airstrip which has an abundance of air tour companies offering a spin around the Lines. A 40 minute flight twisting and turning over each figure and shape so that passengers on the left and right of the aircraft can get a view is not for those with a weak stomach. Although this is a major site of archaeological interest and with it a major tourist attraction it was a disappointing show; mainly due to the type of aircraft used. A variety of small Cessna type aircraft with small windows would ferry the punters skywards with a pilot saying the Monkey’s on your right etc, doing a quick spin to get it on the left for the other passengers. The assumption was that these figures would standout on the desert floor and be instantly identifiable; the reality was the opposite, they were very difficult to acquire from the air and by the time you had they were gone! Although it was a very interesting experience; expectation did not match the reality of the site; we were both disappointed by the show; too much tourist conveyer belt, not enough detail. Our recommendation is yes visit it if you’re there, but visit the viewing tower first to get an understanding of what you’re going to see; you’ll then have a better perspective of what you’re looking for from the air.

14 Jul 06 (Fri). Nasca – Huacho: Ruta 1S Pan American Highway: 426 Miles.
The Rough Guide says that Paracas and Pisco are worth a visit to see the flamingos and pelicans and possibly whales; so that was the plan, but remaining flexible to continue to push north if it did not meet expectations! Nasca behind us and a dull day with even duller scenery was the benefit of being at see level. A few hairpins to deal with as we climbed some large sand dunes leaving the district of Nasca and to increase the interesting and focus the mind, a diesel spill on each corner; first one caught me out with a rather quick twitch requiring quick throttle down and handful of opposite lock; I really don’t need to go down on tarmac! No, all safely recovered and once out of the hairpins it was laser straight, how tedious!

Paracas appears to be a holiday resort as well as a fishing village with a transient population, catering mainly for holiday makers. There were lots of pelicans crowding moored fishing boats and that was about it apart from the dune buggies dotted around the village waiting to thrill some punters! Other than that and a few fishermen trying to float a fishing boat and a fisherman doing maintenance with his hound there was not much to see, so we pointed north and into the dullness we rode to get as near to Ecuador as possible in the shortest time. We are going to meet Albert in Quito and he has been giving us advice on routes, hotels, must see sites, etc; he did say this part of the ride would be dull, oh how right he is.

Lima was looming and it was decision time, late afternoon, do we call it a day in Lima, Albert’s given us directions for a hotel or do we kick on and aim for Huacho only 100 miles up the motorway? Obvious, we kick on. The Pan American Highway does go through Lima and had we been able to pick up the signs we would have stayed on it, but we would have missed experiencing the cesspit that Lima is away from the main thoroughfare. I can understand why the mountain people want to migrate to the cities to escape their desperately poor way of life, but to live in the squalor that is thought to be civilisation is a sorry mistake. Is grass always greener and are streets paved with gold? If only!

Once we were in the maze of back streets it was difficult to find our way out, we were going round in circles; then found ourselves on what must have been a bus only street when Mick intercepted a policeman or was it the other way round? Driving licences and docs checked, he did give us directions and it was back to the place we’d been circling, but missing the one and vital road that was our escape route! Playing chicken with the heavy traffic leaving Lima was not so much fun but survival of the fittest and making sure that you could be seen. Where does all the traffic go? We’re up to our panniers in bumpers and then all of a sudden we have the road, as far as the eye can see ourselves? Sheer bliss, dual carriageway in good condition, good visibility and hardly another vehicle insight; time to open the throttles and really cover the miles. Uphill on a sweeping right hander and down the other side, there was a policeman in the middle of the road inviting us to pull over. Apparently we’d been caught by a speed trap over the hill; it was all so similar to Uruguay. The ritual is to dance around the traffic regulations book singing out the bits that say extortionate fine, and “I keep your licences and you have to go to here to collect them blah, blah, blah”; yes, yes, how much for the Policeman’s Christmas Orphan’s fund? “Oh it’s not like that”. Well, the good cop, bad cop routine eventually plays its course and we cough up $100. But fair enough, we were banged to rights. He said the limit was 70 kph and we were doing 90; well we probably were but not 90 kph! Mick’s regret, having paid the money is that we did not barter as it is negotiable, to a degree!

Another day of overstretch. Arriving in another town in the dark trying to find a hotel with security for the bikes and around in circles we go. When in doubt ask a policeman, they will either want to check your docs; fine you; help you or in this instance, Mick stopped in the middle of a busy roundabout to ask the policeman directing traffic for directions to a hotel. I thought that was pretty ballsy considering our earlier encounter and the volume of traffic this guy was handling. He just stopped all the traffic and pointed to the far side of the roundabout for us to go and park and he walked across with us. When he understood what we were after he said he would escort us to a hotel, what service! He just abandoned his post, jumped on his 125 complete with siren and red flashing light (not used) and off we went through the traffic. Fortunately he realised that we were about twice the width of this bike and gave due consideration when we darted up the lines of traffic, jumping junctions with a quick squirt of the siren; fine for him up front but being third bike, traffic had thought that once the cop had gone through it was a free-for-all again. First hotel, he jumps off goes in and come out quite quickly, no secure parking, let’s go. Back on the road we pick up a second police bike with 2 cops; a lot of discussion between the three of them; then we have a two bike escort! Next hotel, checked by the cops, its fine, garage around the corner; they insist on getting us to the garage and give warning to the staff that the bikes were not to be tampered with. It restores ones faith.

15 Jul 06 (Sat). Huasho – Huaraz: Ruta 1N, 14, 3N: 175 Miles
Another dull start to the day, heavy haze and mist that has blocked the sun for the last couple of days and we’re starting to suffer from sun deficiency; we’re not used to riding without the sun on our faces! But at least at sea level you we can breathe more easily. We have high expectations of finding blue skies and the sun today as we are going to climb back up to the gods, sit on top of the world, breathe their rarefied air and have a view from horizon to horizon. We have had a couple of very strong recommendations that as we are running up the Pacific coast we should take a small detour via Huaraz and take in the 50 snow capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.

Leaving Huasho, first job was to refuel, which is usually a friendly chatty affair as the bikes draw a crowd; today was no exception. I think the female assistant would have come along for the ride had the rear seat been available; more confirmation that puppies are not required! The Tut Tuts (three wheeled taxis) also stopped to look and ask the usual questions; who are you, where are you from, where have you been, where are you going and can we swap? Its good chat and a laugh with these guys at the forecourt but it’s full combat using mobile interception and blocking when you meet in their combat arena; the street!

After yesterdays contribution to the Policeman’s Orphan’s Christmas fund we were riding at a very steady pace; we cannot afford to handover $100 everyday. It really is a miserable place to ride compared to where we have been; the whole road is an extension of the council tip. Trying to spot the Feds way off and constantly checking speeds we swept around a right hander to see the police flagging everyone onto the side; a quick glace down the road and across the bridge gave the reason, a slow moving very wide crane was coming towards us. Through the next town and still riding with great caution we passed a police patrol on the side of the road, they raised a hand so we waved back and continued, only to be stopped by the next patrol claiming that we were speeding. Now yesterday was a fair-cop-guv but today smacked of a mugging! Yep we were mugged by a very friendly cop who was desperate that while he had his hand in my wallet no one could see, so every note handed over was at full arms length and as obvious as I could make it.

Both of us were furious at the highway robbery and it took the edge off the ride up Ruta 14; which is a valley worth visiting. It is a mixture of small agricultural holdings and open hills side that gives way to steep open mountain side the higher you climb. I’m leading today; time to get out front again and Mick came alongside pointing at his warming lights; his engine management light was on! The only thing to do is to stop and assess the problem, easier said than done as we have no diagnostic equipment, but sometimes just switching off and back on clears the problem; it did, that’s a relief.

When we reach the top of the pass, the route was flanked to the west by the Cordillera Negra and Cordillera Blanca on the east and we were riding north, into the sun, bliss. It is a spectacular view and the ride is worth the effort as the Cordillera Blanca is, as advertised, a line of snow capped mountains with tremendous views. But not wishing to devalue it, we have been slightly over exposed to good mountain scenery, so it did not have quite the wow factor that it would have been had it have been one of our first mountain ranges! “Oh the luxury to be complacent of mountain views” I hear you say! Yup, but that’s what we’re doing, overdosing on spectacular scenery.

The intention was to overnight at Huaraz rather than do what we’ve been doing recently and pushing on until we are both knackered. It’s no different to the other towns we’ve ridden through in Peru, a desperate poor crumbling town where the streets are rubbish tips and life is hand to mouth. We rode around the town for a while, wrong way up one way streets etc, trying to find the hotel recommended to us by Albert. It is another one of those oasis of civilisation that is nice to have, especially as Mick’s body has rejected him from both ends and he feels as though he’s been hit in the back by a steam roller; not a pretty sight! He’s gone straight to bed in the hope that it will pass while he sleeps and we can continue tomorrow back to the Pan American Highway and dull weather and dull views, probably? He’s put it down to the Peruvian/Chinese meal we had last night!

16 Jul 06 (Sun). Huaraz – Trujillo: Ruta 1N: 230 Miles.
Not a good night had by either of us; it was my turn for D&V during the night, shivering one minute and sweating the next but generally I was ok for a days riding. Mick was in tatters; he looked like death warmed-up and the colour of milk. Was he ready for a 100 mile ride along a cart track or did he need another days rest? A contributing factor to feeling rough was probably the fact that we had ridden from see level to 4000 metres in a few hours the day before and reducing the altitude might help, so off we went. Four hours, 100 miles later and Mick just wanted to lie down and die. The views on the route down mountain had been wasted on Mick, all he wanted to do was get round the next corner without a problem and eventually reach the Pan American Highway. On one corner we met a bus hurtling up (still the fastest thing on the track) hill; discretion being the better part of valour, we did the polite thing and pulled into the side to allow it to squeeze past. I shot off expecting Mick to be in my wing mirrors, but when he failed to appear after a mile I turned round and rode back to meet his just near where we’d stopped. As he was starting off, his rear wheel hit a rock and tipped the bike on its side trapping this right foot under the crash bar, ouch! He’d manage to free it and get the bike upright too but was in great pain from the crushing. So not only was he feeling like ***t but there was a fair chance that he had done some serious damage to a toe too!

The Pan American Highway was as we left it dull, and the ride to Trujillo was uneventful. We almost rode through Trujillo thinking that it would be a much larger town.. Our night stop was at a very seedy hotel, but with a secure compound for the bikes. There were no restaurants about so it was a carry-out of biscuits and bread from the garage and a picnic in the room. Fortunately the cockroaches were polite enough to wait until we’d had our fill before joining in. Mick’s toe was not a pretty colour but probably not broken and even if it was there’s not much to be done with it other than elevate it; he can do that tomorrow by putting his legs up on the crash bars when he’s riding!

17 Jul 06 (Mon). Trujillo – Loja Ecuador: Ruta 1N, 35: 513 Miles.
It was going to be another one of those very long days, yet another very early start; but first get rid of that cockroach running around my helmet! We skipped breakfast, you can probably understand why. The weather was as dull as ever and the view was non existent. At our first stop Mick also had to get rid of something that had been running around his crash helmet for the last 20 miles! From Trujillo to Chiclayo there was some traffic to entertain us but once through Chiclayo and into the Desierto de Sechura it was laser straight; we felt confident that we could up the speed as the other traffic was moving much quicker that us, so we put feet up on the crash bars, locked throttles off and leant back on the packs, it’s going to be a long one.

At Sullana we had the option of staying with the coast road around to Tumbes and cross the border into Ecuador at Huaquillas or go inland and cross at Macara. No contest Macara was closer and would get us out of Peru the quickest. Riding from Sullana, the countryside started to change from desert to subtropical with fertile ground for plantations, colour and warmth. The border crossings were as they have been previously, friendly, straightforward and easy, and the bonus, neither sets of border police needed a financial contribution to their gods.

The immediate impression I got as we crossed the border was that the people were more smiley, brighter eyed and in better physical condition. Their houses were more substantial and they were more industrious. Also, the girls wore short skirts and tight tops, all very easy on the eye!

Crossing the border at 1530, we still had 3 ½ hours of hard riding to do to get to Loja through the tight and twisty roads of this part of the Pan American Highway. Loja was another town too far and with Mick still having stomach problems was suffering, lots, but we were now well and truly in Ecuador. Next stop Quito.

Our comments on Peru: Peru has some of the finest relics of ancient Inca history and what we saw was well worth the effort. The rest that we saw was a cesspit of humanity and it was a pleasure and relief to exit Peru. Unlike Bolivia I would not give Peru a second visit other than to use it as a thoroughfare to transit through!

We are supporting:
Charity:
Macmillan Cancer Support – http://www.justgiving.com/mickdaly-hereford
Schools:
Christ College Brecon - http://www.christcollegebrecon.com/
St Richard’s Bredenbury - www.st-richards.co.uk

Our intention for the next week. Did we achieve last week’s intentions to enter and exit Peru! Yes. Next week is to visit Ecuador and possibly Columbia too but aiming for Panama.

UPDATE 11 - BOLIVIA - 09 JUL 06

2006-07-20T14:14:00.000Z

04 -09 Jul 06
Departing Salta Argentina – Bolivia

04 Jul 06 (Tue). Salta – La Quiaca; Ruta 9; 270 Miles.

A bitter sweet farewell to the Alejandro 1 Hotel in Salta as its been our base, on and off since the 29 May when we first arrived in the city; staying 18 nights during that period. It is a newly built, well appointed hotel and opened quite recently. It is staffed by a relatively young and inexperienced team who readily admit that the learning curve is steep and rapid; but we think that they do themselves a disservice. What they may lack in experience, they certainly make up with an efficient friendly manner that is always delivered with a smile and a positive energetic response from the moment you approach the front door to be greeted by Gaston and Facundo who practice their English on us and make sure that the Union Jack is flying if there is a spare flag pole; to Maria at the front desk, who’s warm smile and good English saves me using sign language when Mick turns his back on me to say learn some Spanish (two good reasons to stay at the front desk); and Frederico, the enthusiastic tourist adviser who has travelled widely in South America and gave us really good advice and answered all our tourist questions. There is obviously a very large staff that made our stay a very pleasant one but these were our main contacts; we did appreciate the effort of all the staff. Our final thanks goes to the manager who allowed us to abandon our bikes in his garage for a month, whether we were staying or not.

Cast your mind back to the 30 June a very important date in the Argentine calendar; it was Argentina v Germany and we were at Amaicha del Ville where we stopped for lunch and to catch the second half of the game where there was a rowdy crowd of elderly ladies supporting Argentina! Well last night at supper there was a rowdy crowd of elderly ladies singing alone and flirting with the in house band, yes same group and they recognised us too.

Fond farewells done we are back doing what we came to do; riding and seeing the continent. Our objective was the Bolivian border; to cross it or just reach it and cross tomorrow. The route was straight up Ruta 9 for 270 miles on good quality paved roads and easy riding, which is what I wanted to ease the shoulder back into its riding position. We bye-passed the city of Jujuy which we visited on my nursery ride on Sunday and when we arrived at La Quiaca Mick said “did you see the soldiers on exercise”? No, didn’t see anything! Oh just 4 armoured infantry carriers and dismounted infantry! They must have been well camouflaged! We rode at a steady pace not just to accommodate my shoulder but because the Metzeller tyres are a nightmare at the moment even though we have ridden 400 miles on them. They are wandering all over the place and cornering can be quite disconcerting. As we approach what looked like a giant concrete sundial with a big yellow sun painted on it, Mick decided to do a 180 and head back down the road; what had I missed now? It was the sign for the Tropic of Capricorn, an absolute must as a photo opportunity, so we (royal we) took a few.

Climbing to 3500 metre (going to be another sleepless night) we passed herds of domestic llamas; they seem to be much bigger and woollier up this end of the country and they have road sense too, which is good when they are grazing along the edge of the road; more that can be said for those daft sheep! The police and Gendarmerie check points were not interested in us today; we were waved through all points except for one where they just wanted a passport check. It was an easy day, arriving in La Quiaca just sort of the border (300 metre) we opted to overnight in Argentina and do the border at our leisure in the morning. Next stop Bolivia.

05 Jul 06 (Wed). La Quiaca – Potosi; Ruta 14, 1; 243 miles. 3500 metre ASL and an hotel that has heating sheer luxury; well not; advertised as heated we elected just to remove riding trousers as a goodwill gesture to clean sheets. Altitude and a bitterly cold night had the usual effect; limited sleep and just willing the dawn to arrive so that we could get going. We were limited to a 0830 start because the secure garage where our bikes were didn’t open until then anyway; it did make for a long night.

The border at La Quiaca to Villazon was only 300 metre from the hotel and 5121 kms from our start point of Ushuaia, and we’ve covered over 11000 to date! Could we get there; you can see it but every road you take is blocked. We had just stop at a junction block by what looked like official vehicles wondering what to do when a “transito” cop on a Honda 125 arrived and asked what the matter was? Explaining, she just said “go through it”. We are still applying UK logic and restrictions on ourselves when there really is no need; and to put us out of our misery she said “follow me” and duly led us to the border crossing. That was the second transito cop who saw that we needed a lead and just did so; we needed help to find the hotel last night too! You’d never believe we used to be able to navigate through the jungle!

The border crossing was a doddle, although it took one and half hours, what took a long time was the Bolivian Customs trying to clear my bikes details using their internet system that kept crashing. The customs officer gave up on the high speed, state of the art technology and reverted to the age old tried and tested method of pen, two forms and a sheet of carbon paper; 5five minutes and an apology for the hold up later we were on our way. But before we went, we had to acknowledge a group of elderly ladies who were crossing the border too. Are they following us, have they heard about puppies, are we in luck? Time to hit the throttle!

We had sought advice about routes and road conditions because I am nursing a sore shoulder and a long period of arduous gravel tracks would not do it a whole lot of good. So we opted for Ruta 14 from Villazon to Potosi although 300 kms of graded track it was reported to be absolutely superb; you can probably hear the irony. The term good or better than good is all relative; it was 7 hours, 234 miles of physical torture and probably rates as one of our hardest days yet; that includes the day out to the Salar del Hombre Muerte. Previous rides on the gravel have been quite an isolated event, but this is a busy ruta with cars, lorries and buses. Buses being your worst nightmare; they are the fastest thing on the track, they stop for no man, machine or beast and their aerodynamic ensure that they produce the largest and thickest cloud of dust possible. You literally drive into a blind bank of dust with visibility down to your front mudguard! Unless you have had a clear view of the road ahead before the dust hits you the only thing to do is stop.

We rode north through Tupiza and Cotagaita to Potosi, but ask me what the scenery was like and I could not tell you. Mick S leading so that he could warn of hazards like soft sand, big hole etc but the down side was I was either riding to far behind to pick up the warnings or riding in his dust trail! We rode through Tupiza where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid were reportedly killed in their final shootout with the law!

Potosi is an ancient silver mining town dating back to the 1600s when a llama herder lighting a fire discovered that the ground was melting silver. That started the silver rush that lead to the Spanish ruling the most affluent city of its time. The decline of the value of silver and other minerals mined from this city has meant its demise and is now predominantly a poor transit hub for travellers. Today it remains a sprawling mining town dominated by the old volcanic peak that is pepper potted with reportedly over a thousand mine shafts and the resultant slag tips that scar its slopes. The workers start down the mines at the age of 13 and have a life expectancy of about 15 years, so most die before they are 30, either through lung disease or accidents. It does still boast some fine examples of Spanish architecture, the most prominent being the Royal Mint which was literally that in the 1600s. The building is the largest in the town and served not only as the mint but also barracks, prison and luxury safe accommodation for senior Spanish officials. It also has an abundance of churches and other historical buildings that date back to the time of the Spanish. We wanted to get some photos of the local people and trying to get some photos of the ladies in traditional dress was not easy; they were not happy to be photographed which meant trying to setup photo ambushes to get a few.

06 Jul 06 (Thu). Potosi – Oruro; Ruta 1; 198 Miles. What a road, newly completed (in relative terms) it would have been a sports bike paradise had it not been for the goat droppings and light gravel, usually on the apex of tight corners. The scenery has change from the wide open high plains of the Sierra de Calalaste and the dusty desert of Ruta 14 yesterday to close mountains with tight gorges and the odd tunnel too. There is little in the way of habitation or agriculture in this region and little evidence of wildlife too; it is very desolate. What habitation is primitive, houses (term used loosely) of mud brick wall and either turf or a thatch roof. It is the most impoverished region we have visited yet.

As we cleared the Peaje, another toll at Challapata, getting up to cruising speed two bikes were hurtling towards us; these were the first bikes we’d seen since Terra del Furego and we were not going to repeat the mistake of not stopping. We and they put out a hand to wave as we passed and we throttled down to stop; but they just kept going; ironic! And after all this time following out of use railway lines we finally spotted a train; of sorts!

Arriving in Oruro we found another one of those hotels that advertise heating; another night fully clothed. Oruro did not really have anything to offer other that a tactical stopover. It is another has-been city whose demise has come from the fall in the value of the countries natural resources. It has declined into a mess of crumbling buildings and crumbling people.

07 Jul 06 (Fri). Oruro – Sajama - La Paz; Ruta 1, 4; 345 Miles. We were not sure where we would reach today? La Paz was on our radar but the volcano’s at Sajama which sits on the Bolivian – Chilean border at the end of Ruta 14 and a 200 mile detour off Ruta 1 to La Paz, well its just down the road and you cannot miss the opportunity. Refuel at Patacamaya, not wishing to be caught short and head south on a very well paved road.

Sheep and llamas have been dodged as a matter of cause but what nearly caught us out was a local; she was walking at a steady pace down the right hand side of the road with her back to us; we always take the centre line (if the road is clear) when passing anything, just in case. As Mick got to within 50 meters of her she turned into the road and ran across into our line. Hauling on the brakes, knobbly tyres trying to get some grip and the ABS pumping like the racing heart of the rider, moving further left and at the same time making that all important mathematical calculation “if the target is moving from right to left at speed A and we are closing with the target at speed B, take the decreasing angle as the distance closes; where should you aim to miss her? Calculation complete, adjust your trajectory and that will give sufficient clearance; bugger, she’s turned round and ran back to her start point!! She had one of those sixth sense moments; she did not look at the bikes when she turned, just turned and ran, and she was giggling to herself too. All the characteristics were exactly the same as the sheep crossing the track when we left Calafate!

We got to a good vantage point of the volcano some 85 miles down Ruta 14 and decided that we were close enough to get the photos and say we’d seen it. To get any closer required a long cross country ride.

A few kms before La Paz a large scooter came towards us, it was a touring scooter of about 500 cc and it had a surf board attached to the side! This time we were not going to make a half hearted attempt to communicate with it; as it passed we stopped and did a 180 and rode back after it; it did not stop; oh well we did make the effort again.

La Paz is set in a valley surrounded by mountains which makes it a magnificent smog trap and the Autopista contours around the mountainside until it reaches the heart of the city. Mick managed to get a photo of the city from high up the Autopista; the city is perched precariously on the slope of the mountains and gives the impression that it would cascade into the city centre during a good down pour. The traffic seems like sheer madness, if you snooze you lose, and if you are less than positive you’ll miss your chance. But in fact it’s no more dangerous the riding in Italy. With two bikes you ride tactically, the lead bike deciding the route and the second bike blocking to allow clear space to move into, its quite an effective method and providing the second bike stays within the vision of the first and is conscious of the traffic around it works. It would appear that there are no rules and traffic moved generally in one direction and generally on one side of the road; but actually, with all the hooting of horns and pushing there is a logic and ethic to it all; you’ve just got to tune in to the system and then get out there and play!

08 Jul 06 (Sat). La Paz – Copacabana; Ruta 2; 84 Miles. Getting out of La Paz was a mixture of fun riding, competing with the traffic and a pain because it was slow going in fumy heavy traffic. The exit was the reverse of our entry yesterday, up the Autopista then turn left on Ruta 2 and head west. Those were the directions from the lady at the hotel. At the end of the Autopista it was mayhem, no clear way to got so Mick stopped in the middle of the road to ask a policeman; well you do done you? The policeman stopped three lanes of traffic in order that could cross to the right exit, and the Mick did it again and the policeman stopped more traffic for us.

The ride to Copacabana was only 84 mile and that gave us plenty of time to stop and enjoy the scenery. The terrain has changed dramatically, gone are the sharp peaks and rugged mountain faces, replaced by rolling mountains and cultivation. As we approached Lago Titicaca the mountain scenery merging with the azure blue water under a bright clear blue sky was magnificent. To get to Copacabana we had a ferry crossing from San Pablo to San Pedro de Tiquina which was an interesting experience as the ferries were barges of questionable construction and serviceability, but functional. We were loaded and had to support the bikes on suspect timber decking with the odd plank missing here and there!

Copacabana and its surrounding area is a major tourist attraction for locals and international tourists alike. The lake is the main draw, a beautiful location with unspoilt surroundings. The negative is the filth that is produced and discarded into it, although it boasts of fresh fish and there is plenty of evidence to support that, there is also too much evidence of blind mullets floating just off the beach. It is undisputedly a beautiful place to visit and the best view is from the top of the hill which we decided to venture up much to the detriment to our health. Already at 3800 metres this was a near vertical climb of 100 metres plus, to a Christian worship site where every bit of tack you can imagine is peddled and all the resultant rubbish discarded over the hill. This was not supposed to be a walking holiday and that’s why we have 1150cc to get us around; this just proved that we cannot draw oxygen through every orifice but it would have been helpful!

09 Jul 06 (Sun). Toady was a day to do the laundry and service the bikes ready to cross into Peru tomorrow and head for Machu Picchu.

Bolivia and our thoughts: We have only spent 5 days in Bolivia, a passing glance, which is not long enough to make an informed opinion on a nation, but our impression is that is a pitifully impoverished nation without a smile or a friendly wave. During our ride we will raise a hand to all we pass, but they are more likely to extend a hand than raise one. There seems to be no humour, life is a struggle and living a burden.

The country has outstanding scenery and its value for money is undisputable. Whether the nationalisation of the natural resources will benefit those at the very bottom of the food chain is uncertain? What it will do is benefit those at the top, as another nation is raped from within of its assets. Time is not on our side and we have not done justice to this country; it would merit a revisit.

Charity:
Macmillan Cancer Support – http://www.justgiving.com/mickdaly-hereford

Schools:
Christ College Brecon - http://www.christcollegebrecon.com/
St Richard’s Bredenbury - http://www.st-richards.co.uk/

Our intention for the next week. Is to enter and exit Peru!

UPDATE 10 - 4X4 ADVENTURE - 03 JUL 06

2006-07-19T16:59:00.000Z

18 Jun – 03 Jul 06

Return to Salta and 4x4 Adventure

18 Jun 06 (Sun). Ah made it back to the sanctuary of civilised society where polite service is a way of life not a reluctant reflex in order to demand tips! We arrived in Santiago this morning after a very good week in Antigua; but to get there and return we had to transit through hostile territory and on hostile carriers! If US national airlines and its airports are the shop window that the worlds travelling public first views the United States and judges it by, it’s a very sorry advertisement. Mick S and I have travelled to the US on many occasions and the shop window is always the same; airline cabin crew indifferent and uninterested; treating passengers as talking freight, to be loaded and unloaded at the least inconvenience to themselves; no eye contact and a manner that that you wouldn’t get from London bus conductor! Fortunately the leg from Santiago was with LAN Chile and the return, although American Airways was with a Chilean crew who had not adopted the brusque manner of the Carrier but maintained that South American courtesy.

A few hours sleep, then a bit of lunch in the hotel bar, which was full of Brazil football supporters watching Brazil beat ????????; a very enthusiastic audience. Lunch was followed by a walk uptown but being a Sunday in a Catholic environment it was a very quiet city; not necessarily a bad thing; is it really necessary for life to be run at 24/7. The only activity to break the silence was the honking of car horns and the waving of Brazilian flags as Brazil’s win was celebrated.

19 Jun 06 (Mon). We returned to Salta today by the return route from a week ago; Santiago to Buenos Aires then to Salta, flying with Aerolineas Argentinas. It was an early start, 0630 pickup from the hotel to go the airport arriving very early for our flight. It was a straightforward days flying in South America; cruise through Chilean Immigrations for a two hour flight to Argentina. Cleared Argentinean Immigrations, which was an extremely friendly affair; it was by far the most friendly border crossing to date. The transfer to Buenos Aires second airport was a far more relaxed proposition this time as we were under no time pressure; having 5 hours before our next flight. BA to Salta was efficiently uneventful; arriving in the early evening to take a taxi back home to our hotel that has been our base for what seems an age!

Supper was taken in one of the many cafes around the main plaza but this one, The Plaza Cafe is worth a mention just for the antics of its waiters. They behave like the two brown Doves at the beach bar in Antigua. They’d spent most days the day prancing around each other trying to out do the other in the competition for the prime pickings. The two waiters would compete by trying to be the last to serve a customer and benefit from the tip. The antics got quite heated at times too.

20 Jun 06 (Tue). Today it was time to assess the physical damage to the bikes! Mick S had already identified a broken rear view mirror, a left side cylinder head protector and a speedo cable on his bike and a cylinder head protector on mine. All parts had been ordered and Jane S brought the parts out to Antigua. The speedo snapped in exactly the same place as mine did, 50mm from the hub; not as a result of an accident, it snapped during the morning of our crashing day. Is this systematic failure or is it just unlucky that we have both had to replace our cables?

Mick S bike was just suffering from a blown spot light bulb and a dent on the left side of his fuel tank and his left side pannier was a bit distorted. My bike needed a spotlight to be straightened and some work on the panniers and pannier frames. My right pannier had some serious damage to its base, which must have happened on my first drop of the day on hard gravel. The base plate was separate from the side wall over a 20 cm section which will need some straightening and welding. The left pannier was not damaged which was a surprise as that was the side that hit the floor hard on the final event; but what it had done was bend the pannier frame.

Assessment complete, time to get down to work; Mick S took the bikes by relay to the gomeria to change all tyres; off came the Continental TKC 80s on went the Metzellers. As usual we were looking for a back street gomeria as they have proved to be the ones capable of dealing with the unusual and at a sensible price of 5 pesos (£1) per tyre; what value. While Mick was out he had both bikes washed as they were caked in sand and mud. His story while out was “He was sitting watching Paraguay v Trinidad and Tobago at the car wash with the second bike in line for the attention of the bucket and sponge, when a German chap rode in on a Honda Africa twin and parked in front of the BMW. He got off strode into the office and started blurting in Spanish something about being urgent and obviously a stereotypical German queue jumping tactic. Unlucky Bosch! Sit and wait like the rest of us. As it happens he was bearable to talk to and spoke perfect English, he had been in Argentina and Chile during 2003/4 and left his bike in Buenos Aires returning this year to spend a year touring the rest of South America. He had already done most of our routes and more. He was sporting a remarkable front wheel that he had split but had got another back street mechanic to strip down weld the aluminium rim refit all the spokes and centre the hub. He had been running on it for the last thousand miles without trouble. No doubt impossible in the UK if not certainly cost prohibitive or not allowed due to safety regulations”.

While Mick S was out and about I set about getting the panniers wash and cleaned along with the rest of the lightweight kit. It seemed an easy task, just gently do the washing up; well it was, until I’d finished, then I knew that I’d over done the exercise on the broken shoulder and I paid for it for the next couple of day. Patients is a virtue; give me mine now!

21 Jun 06 (Wed). Today’s main event, following some lightweight maintenance on the bikes was the Argentina / Holland game. We joined an enthusiastic crowd in the main plaza where every bar and restaurant had its own big TV set up to attract the big audiences. We went to the El Pacifico restaurant, where some 5 TVs had been strategically placed to give everyone a view of the game. The game was not crucial for Argentina as they were already through to the next round, but none the less passions were high and a win is what national pride required! When a game is going their way there is pandemonium, but when its not, there is absolute silence; a strange and different reaction from a Brit crowd who would at least be complaining at the inefficiency of someone to do with the game! It was a draw; but let’s still celibate. After the match every bar and restaurant emptied onto the main square; flags waving, drums banging and the loud crack of fireworks as they revelled again in their teams progression to the next round. It was mainly teenagers sporting the team colours and painted faces. The lads bouncing up and down or running round the square chanting and singing to the beating of the drums and the girls hanging around giggling not sure what they should be doing other than getting excited and hugging each other! This was all over watched by the scores of ever present Salta police, not menacing in any way but present.

22 Jun 06 (Thu). Time to set about getting the panniers and frames straight. Firstly, Touratech do supply a very robust set of panniers and frames. We think that they have provided additional protection to the bikes as a whole which have taken quite a hammering on the falls of that day, soaking up the impacts. Mick S frame did not require any work but mine needed a good tweak and that was done with the assistance of a 2 meter reinforcing bar to provide sufficient leverage to move the frame. Not completely straight but good enough for our needs!

It was a bit of a task just trying to workout how to remove the dead spotlight bulb let alone actually extract it, but once it was done we found a shop that supplied them at a very reasonable price 80p each so we bought 3; just in case! While getting the bulbs, Mick asked the shop assistant if he new where we could get some aluminium welding done; two blocks across and eight down “Bicicleta Cromo” the typical back street mechanic that we wanted. Mick delivered the damaged panniers and left them with him to collect in two days time. Hopefully fully repaired and a perfect fit back on the frame.

23 Jun 06 (Fri). Although being in one place and not riding is a necessary requirement for the purpose of healing, it does nothing for the frustration of not doing the travelling and getting to see the areas that we had been planning to. There is also the problem of cabin fever, it’s setting in; we need to get out. The plan is to hire a 4x4 and drive the route through the Sierra de Calalaste that we were on three weeks ago and carry on to Valle de la Luna (Argentina not Chile) and San Jose. This would mean we could cover the ground that we had planned, but not go to Santiago as we will have to return to Salta. We tried Avis and got a price; then went to Hertz who also gave us their price; it was then time to start the bartering! Out come the Avis brochure which started friendly banter about the rivals and we eventually got a reasonable price for a Nissan Frontier 4x4 for a week, but with only 2000 kms free mileage; we’d do a bit more than that! We’d collect it on Sunday morning then head for the hills to do it all over again; well, not all!

24 Jun 06 (Sat). Mick got Maria from the hotel front desk to phone and check that the panniers were ready and how much they would be? She could not believe that Mick had not confirmed a price first! Another Argentine lady chastising, in good humour! Panniers were ready for collection at a fee of £26. Mick took a bike to collect then so that he could fit them and bring then back. Luciano Cruz, the Bicicleta cromo owner had the panniers sitting on the cluttered work bench and looking remarkably square considering the state that they were left in. The welding was a good job and all the seams were tight and true; the lids had been squared up again and the securing fittings that held the panniers onto the bike frame had been reinforced and fitted with new bolts. A dam good job and another example of what “back street mechanicing” (as Fred Dibna, god bless his soul, used to swear by) can produce.
Luciano Cruz asked where Mick was from and if the motorbike was outside. He was obviously interested and came out to see how and help fit the panniers onto the bike. He said that he was a great friend of Ossi Ardeiles who used to play for and later manage Tottenham Hotspur. He said that they used to be welders together or was it soldiers together! The Spanish for the two are very similar Soldador & soldado but hey does it matter! He asked if he could sit on the bike and promptly tried to throw his short leg over the saddle nearly dropping the heavy machine. A little push and he was upright straining on tip toe to keep his balance while his son and Mick took a couple of pictures.

We’d been given good advice that the Argentina v Mexico game would start at 1500 so we went off to secure a seat at the same restaurant. But local info was an hour out; it was a 1600 kick off. I was not feeling up to it so left Mick to enjoy the match with a couple of litres of Salta Cervesa and soak up the atmosphere of the buoyant crowd that had assembled. When Mick returned to the hotel he regaled the events of the match and audience. “Six minutes into the game and stunned silence as the ball was in the back of the Argentine goal. Mexico had scored! You could have heard a pin drop but for the sigh of a single woman at the back of the room. Gradually as the game progressed life came back into the crowd and they were rewarded 4 minutes later in fact with the equaliser. I had secretly hoped that they would suffer a little longer. But that came later as the second half ebbed away with the score still 0-0 then a cracking goal in the 91st minute and the crowed went crazy! But no, sit down, OFF SIDE and disallowed, ha ha! Extra time followed and right from the start of it you just new that Mexico would struggle and the Argentines would prevail, sure enough a fantastic goal that nearly went through the back of the net clinched the game. Pandemonium ensued; the whole place went crazy and continued its celebrations in the main square late into the night. It was madder than the previous mad night, the usual drums whistles and fireworks. Flag waving crowds of kids and girls up on blokes’ shoulders”

25 Jun 06 (Sun). 4x4 Adventure: Salta to San Antonio; Ruta 51; 200 kms. We collected the 4x4, loaded it up and were ready for the off when we were blocked in by yet another religious parade with load speakers, horse mounted gauchos and various religious statues. Back inside for a coffee and wait for it to clear. We were to have a leisurely drive from Salta to San Antonio, without the river crossing this time aiming to arrive by late afternoon. It was an overcast day with a bit of light drizzle as we started, but as soon as we climbed to 2000 metres we were through the cloud and into bright sunshine and blue skies (the only way we travel!). Instead of going straight to the hotel at San Antonio the artistic director decided that we should visit the viaduct again as he thought the sun would be favourable for a good picture; he was right. To take the pictures we had to try and avoid the tourist ambush set by the local kids who quickly dressed in local costume, well throw a poncho on and caps, banged drums and put their hands out when they heard a vehicle coming. As per usual we managed to get the pictures and escape without parting with a single coin.

As we approach the hotel, 4 bikes rode in, a BMW 1200 GS, Honda Trans Alp, Kawasaki KLR and a Suzuki 800. They were from Buenos Aires and had trucked their bikes to Salta to ride the Sierra del Calalaste. They too had had their fair share of spills; each of them had hit the deck in some way or another and a couple had tipped up on ice; know the feeling. After and exchange of stories and emails they went on their way for a late afternoon ride to Salta. The hotel was in new hands; a friendly bunch of ladies who spoke English and had the heating on. But as the altitude was still the same it was another restless night.

26 Jun 06 (Mon). San Antonio - Antofagasta – Belen, Ruta 43, 600 kms. We were going to drive the route that we intended to ride three weeks earlier! It was a doddle; well for me anyway, I was sitting in the passenger’s seat for the duration! The weather was again superb and was considerably warmer than when we were last here. The tracks were drier and the snow had gone, but the tracks were still slippery from the loose gravel. That and a light back end on the 4x4 made for some interesting cornering as it skipped around behind us! We passed Olacapato, the newly (relatively) almost complete but abandoned station at Laguna Seca, Salar de Pocitos and headed south towards Salar del Hombre Muerto and the impact point! The tracks had been graded in many places which was not all together an improvement, but as we approached one area we saw an animal preparing to cross the track, it was large so due caution was adopted, slow down and be prepared to stop. It did not move as we approach and as we got to it we could see why; the graders had propped a dead donkey; ah humour.
Impact point reach; a bit of counselling offered by Mick just to make sure I was ok at revisiting the site and some pointing of where each bit had hit the ground. From this point it was only 90 kms to the next small town and as we set off we could fully appreciate the advice that we were given in Pocitos 3 week ago about the condition of the track, it was appalling. Had we managed to continue on the bikes that day, we would have been absolutely exhausted by the time we reached Antofagasta de la Sierra. Even with the 4x4 it was no walk in the park; snow drifts across the track, track giving way to mush!
Antofagasta was reach by mid afternoon, which was too early to stop, so refuel collect some lunch and press on. The southern route out of Antofagasta turned from all sand desert to a volcanic rock field with a number of blown volcanoes; very different to what we’d been seeing all day so lunch was a picnic by a lake lined by volcanoes, now that’s different! If the last 90 kms had been hard work it was nothing to what awaited us for the next 300 kms to Belen! We wanted a challenge and we have certainly been biting off more that we can eat from time to time and this was no exception. The term track can only be use in its loosest term for the last bit of the day; we really considered going completely cross country at times as it looked much more manageable. Belen was gratefully reach at 2000hrs and fuel is the first priority, only to find that we have a puncture ( ah Mick’s driving); that can wait until the morning; enough is enough for one day – 12 hours, 600 kms all cross country, great.

27 Jun 06 (Tue). Belen to Villa Union, Ruta 40; 350 kms. Another trip to the gomeria, experts by now, 20 minutes and 5 pesos later we were on our way through more jaw dropping scenery, but the piece de resistance for the day was the drive from Nonogasta to Villa Union. You just think that you’ve seen it all, when you turn a corner and the world changes. This relatively short section of tarmac and gravel, through high and close mountains was awesome; but that isn’t it all! Repeating ourselves has now become an occupational hazard, but writing as we go does not allow us to grade the level of jaw drop from one day to the next and as we continue we wonder if we are becoming desensitised to the view; “that’s awesome isn’t it? Well not really”! It’ll only be when we’ve finish and if we can remember which was which, will we be able to say what was really impressive – no, memory puts a rose tint to all. We made it to Pagancillo for fuel and a late lunch at Restaurant de Diego where the owner gave us the result of the England v Ecuador game, some fine local empanadas (small pasties) and advice about staying in the village for the night and visiting something tomorrow? We thought we’d press on as we were off to San Jose! 60 kms down the road we came across the Parque National Talampaya; it was closing for the day, but apparently was a canyon that must be visited; so says the Parque ranger; which is what the restaurant owner was saying (wish Mick spoke better Spanish!). No accommodation nearby so back 60 kms to Villa Union for the night, but capture another sunset on the way.

28 Jun 06 (Wed). Villa union to Villa Union; Ruta 26; 280 kms. The advice was to be early at Talampaya to get the best pictures before the sun moves to far west. Well early means when the sun is up, which is not until 0830. We arrived at 0900 to an overcast day, not best suited for photos but we went with it anyway. Talampaya is a canyon that boasts to satisfy all the “ologies”, palaeontology, archaeology, geology and anthropology. It is a site worth visiting to see the rock painting, the Condors; who were not playing because it was too cold and of course the canyon its self. We were fortunate to have as part of our group a photographer and his son, who took it upon himself to give free photography lessons to all who would listen! He did offer to and we accepted, to down load all of his photos from the canyon onto our laptop. We were sure that they would be of superior quality to Mick’s as he had a very expensive camera etc, etc; not the case. Mick’s photos were far superior so we deleted nearly all of his. Talampaya done it was off to the Valle de la Luna and San Jose de Jachal, but the road had disappeared completely, diversion signs were in place and you could only get to the next national parque of Ischigualasto. Reluctantly we agreed to take the tour and quite frankly it was not worth the time let alone the few pesos. It was supposed to be Jurassic but it was less spectacular that almost anything we’d seen to date. And we could not progress to San Jose we returned to Villa Union with another sunset to snap.

29 Jun 06 (Thu). Villa Union, Pass San Francisco, Tinogasta, Belen; Ruta 40, 60; 700 kms. On the advice of our photographer mate at Talampaya, who said that the route up to the Chilean border at Pass Sam Francisco was absolutely awesome and must not be missed! More good local advice? It was good but not worth a 500 km detour good. The highlight was the return trip on Ruta 40 from Villa Union to Nonogasta and as we approach Nonogasta the valley was smothered in low cloud but the edge of the cloud was a vertical wall. We did not go all the way to the border, turning around about 200 kms having seen some fine examples of what tectonic plates do to the earth’s surface. For anyone studying geography or geology this is a superb place to visit.

The main event of the return to Belen was the fuel light coming on 70 km short of the next known diesel! Reduce speed and hope that the reserve tank has sufficient to do the job! At Londres just 14kms short of Belen we asked a couple of people if fuel was available, there was a man who pumped fuel from 205 litre drums so we thought we’d better have 5 lts of that, just in case. Arriving at Belen 66 lts was put into the 73 lts tank; so there must have been masses to spare!!

30 Jun 06 (Fri). Belen to Cafayate; Ruta 40, 307; 260 kms. We’d visited Cafayate a month ago and wanted to see some more of it as it was a major wine producing area and looked worthy of some more time. The route took us via Amaicha del Ville where we stopped for lunch and to catch the second half of the Argentina v Germany. The garage was packed so we went to the upstairs restaurant where there was table of elderly ladies enthusiastically supporting Argentina. They were hooting and a hollering when it was going Argentina’s way but absolute silence when it did not. One lady got so excited and confuse about which side was playing which way that she was on her feet cheering and shouting when Germany scored; very deflated when she realised the error! To go to a penalty shootout was nerve racking and watching these ladies was great fun; cheers when they score, but again, absolute silence and deflation when Germany finally clinched the match. They just slowly, quietly got up and left!

Cafayate, is not only a wine producing town, it is a major tourist centre and is very well looked after. The central plaza is surrounded by cafes restaurants and all the tack that any tourist could possibly want, if not need! Coffee in the sun watching the world go by, and the aging hippies that seem to have lost the sense of time; it’s a hell of a life on the road!

01 Jul 06 (Sat). Cafayate to Salta; Ruta 68; 200 kms. The final run back to Salta was up the road that we’d ridden a month ago but this time we stopped at the two main tourist sites The Amphitheatre and the Gargantua Del Diablo, the Devils Throat. Both places are geological faults and with cascading water have created short canyons that are quite impressive; the Amphitheatre in particular. Arriving at Salta we were assured the usual warm welcome from a smiling Maria on the desk, Gaston at the door and Fredrico at the tourist deck; it like home from home; it really is time to be moving on.

This completed our week of 4x4 rallying, some 2700 kms of which over 50% was on tracks (of some sort!) and to more jaw dropping parts of this magnificent country. The 4x4 stayed on its tyres and in one piece and is now clean and ready to be returned in the morning.

02 Jul 06 (Sun). Bit of a shocker; we knew that there was a levy of 1 peso per extra km travelled above the 2000, but what they had not explained was the 23% of additional taxes that would also be added!! In all an extra 1000 pesos (£200), oh well, we did have a good week.

Its now time to test the shoulder; it’s been a month and that’s what the doctor said; “no riding for a month”. With stabilisers on and on a leading rein to make sure I don’t get ahead of myself we went and rode to Jujuy and back; a round trip of 150 miles. Shoulder ached a bit from lack of use and putting it in a position that it’s not be in for a month, but it’ll get used to it. No real problems; it seems strong enough for a bit of exercise.

03 Jul 06 (Mon). We been waiting for a cylinder head protector to arrive from BMW Buenos Aires this week and it arrived this morning. Mick fitted it for me while I catch up on my typing, plus he does not want me doing anything that will risk my shoulder!

Well, now that’s fitted, the panniers are all the right shape and the bikes are ready to go; shame not to crack on; isn’t it? Well that’s what we’re going to do. Today is our final day in Salta and probably Argentina too. Tomorrow we’ll head north to Bolivia.

We seem to have been here so long that we could apply for citizenship? It has been a truly magnificent country to visit; it is cheap (very important), very friendly; it has a diverse culture with contrasts of jaw dropping scenery that never fail to impress, inspire and leave you in awe.

Our enduring memories of the this part of our ride will be; leaning on the wind in Patagonia; the wild life in the Beagle Channel, the Torres, glaciers, the dogs giving chase and the amount of crap they leave. The almost unrestricted riding; the friendship and help given, not only when most needed;

The disappointments are; being two days to early to see the whales at Peninsula Valdes; not getting to see more of Chile and ride the Desierto Atacama and visit Chiles Valle de la Luna, but time waits for no man, nor do the seasons and the Arctic winter draws in and if we are to dip a to in the Artic ocean before it gets too cold to ride, we need to get a move on.

Our intention for the next week. Is to cover some ground in a northerly direction without testing my cross country skills, trying to keep rubber to tarmac at all times!

UPDATE 9 - ANTIGUA - 17 JUN 06

2006-06-19T12:53:00.000Z

09 – 17 Jun 06
Santiago – The Caribbean - Santiago

09 Jun 06 (Fri). We had most of the day to kill until we started the 16 hour, three plane change trip to the Caribbean and this was the first opportunity for us to see what Santiago had to offer. Checking with the Rough Guide, it suggested that the only area of real interest was the main square which was only a few blocks walk away. The day was a little damp and cool but yet again it didn’t rain on us. We have remained incredibly lucky with the weather since leaving the southern extremes of Patagonia where we did get a bit wet. Nature may have thrown us some extreme conditions on occasions, high wind, the snow and the cold, but to date, and I know its tempting providence, we still have not ridden in the rain; just how we like it!

The Plaza De Armas was the first major Plaza to be built in Chile and is the point from where all distances within Chile are measured. It has the Cathedral, main Post Office and other historical buildings. It also has it fair share of Night clubs and coffee shops, but a night club here is a den of ill repute and although there are many genuine coffee shops there were a good number that had blacked out windows and very low lighting; I think you could get a hot and very steamy brew in these ones! Good photo opportunities were not as obvious here as they have been in other places that we’ve visited, but like all major cities there is always something that you should capture. The Mounted Police were very obliging, not quite to Italian standards of “make sure you get my best side”. But they did sit-up straight and ensured that the pose was complimentary to them. As we were walking to the Plaza we passed an old man begging; he had a BMW baseball cap on and it was another photo opportunity not to be missed; the last adventure rider at the end of the trail! Unfortunately he did not quite get the gist of what we were trying to achieve. I put some coins in his pot and asked if it was alright to take a photo while Mick S prepare the camera hoping for a quick shot of his face and the BMW cap: not to be. He fully understood that it was a photo we wanted and got to his feet to prepare himself; out came the colostomy bag, held proudly and displayed for the event. No, no, it was just a headshot wanted; yes of course; so off came the cap; proud a punch that a tourist wanted a photo of him, stood up straight smiling for the camera. We just about got a photo of the gent with his hat and we think he was happy that we’d given him some coins and taken an interest!

Leaving the Plaza we could see that the mountains surrounding Santiago were snow capped, so we made our way in search of a photo when we saw the Funicular running up the side of the hills to a very large statute of the Madonna, but more importantly a good viewing platform of the city. The Funicular is a system of two rail cars counter balancing each other that transports you up and down the hillside. We did have a little difficulty working out the engineering of it, but I think eventually the penny dropped and we could see that it was a single steel hawser attached to each car that went around a drive pulley so that as one car descended the other ascended. More fantastic views of mountains!

Mick S had a go at booking a taxi over the phone in his best Spanish to collect us at 1700 hrs and take us to the airport. Not 100% confident that what he had said was what we’d get he asked the hotel receptionist to do a double check. To his delight, he’d booked a taxi to arrive at the right hotel at the right time and take us to the right destination!

The thought of a 16 hour flight was not a welcome one; restricted space in cattle class seats with a broken shoulder and a banged-up ankle as well as having the anticipated pleasure of the officious, unfriendly and incredibly painfully slow immigration process as we transit through Miami! Santiago airport procedures were no problem; but why is it that Immigration officers’ have this air of superiority about them? There was a long queue and one of the immigration officers would, at his leisure bless us with his attention and let someone through in between playing on his personal laptop! We were about three hours early for our flight so to kill time and deaden the pain a couple of large glasses of red wine was the order of the day, while we exchange text messages with the two Jane’s who were now in a hotel at Gatwick preparing for their flight too.

10 Jun 06 (Sat). The 8 hour flight with Lan Chile was straightforward but as predicted painfully cramped, but thankfully, the look forward was a 2 hour gap between flights and a chance to let the body reset its self before the next two shorter flights! We were not disappointed when we arrived at Miami; only 50 % of the immigration desks were manned, and by lethargic, disinterested jobs worth officers who gave the impression that they really did not care if you got through or not. The finger printing and photographing is a slow and tedious process, which is what actually brings the whole immigration process to a slow grind and why immigration officers look as if they are being slow. While we waited in line there was a large noisy black senior immigration officer patrolling up and down behind us and every now and again he would pick on someone and hook them out of the line and take them away; no explanation or justification, just officious orders; “you, come with me”! Thoughts of random selection, special rendition and a free trip to Eastern Europe in the back of a blacked out C5 sprang to mind! But what he was actually doing was moving people, mothers with babies, the old and infirmed from the “aliens” line into the US citizens line as it became free; just something about manner and attitude. Fortunately he did pick on us when we had about 40 minute before our next flight was due to depart and we still had not cleared immigrations! Through the US Citizen line and out to collect bags, clear customs and straight into the transit line to book onto the next flight and only made it by the skin of our teeth. We had dreaded the thought of having to transit through the US to get to the Caribbean and our concerns were well founded; we had considering flying back to Gatwick and out to the Caribbean to avoid getting ragged, bagged, and ***gged by the US system!

Miami to San Juan, Puerto Rico was a two hour hop arriving with plenty of time for us to get the next flight to Antigua and as it’s a State of the USA we did not have any immigration formalities to deal with – great. Find the Gate, confirm the departure time and get a bite to eat, this was easy. We were called to board; we presented our documents with the US entry certificate to be told that we had to conduct a formal exit from the USA by getting and electronic certificate from the self service electronic exit machine, that was not quite self service as there was a women there who processed everyone’s passports to ensure a quick and efficient exit! Back to check with minutes to spare; should have gone via Gatwick! Then the Gate staff did not want the certificate but said keep it so that you have a record of leaving the USA! We are certain there is some logic to the whole immigration process, considering we did not want to enter the US just transit through, but it was lost on us and a few other travellers too!

Only a 45 minute flight to Antigua and we were ahead of the girls Virgin Atlantic ETA, but on landing we saw that their 747 was already on the pan and had arrived an hour early and there they were, on the other side of immigrations collecting their bags,

organising transport to the resort.

Reunited and on our way; great; we were just glad that we were not carrying their bags – I’m sure we were only staying a week!

11 Jun 06 (Sun). Soak up the sun and enjoy the warm sea air for a week at Sandals Resort; we were like a load of reptiles warming our bones. The one thing that everyone says that you must do is visit Shirley’s Heights on a Sunday to see the sunset with the steel band playing and amplify the atmosphere with a few rum punches. Shirley’s Heights has a commanding view of the main harbour English bay, with Nelson’s harbour,
where the British fleet of year’s gone by
had their Caribbean naval headquarters and brought in the Ships, Man of War and the like to be de-barnacled and serviced etc. The steel band was very good, playing continuously for a few hours while the tourists soaked up the atmosphere and the rum punch, interspersed with a little ethnic shopping; a reed basked, a coloured bracelet and any other bit of tourist tack that could be offloaded; yup, we got the lot! Unfortunately we were not paying close enough attention to the sun, when all of a sudden it was sitting perfectly, nestling between two large hills on the far side of the bay; missed it, but did get a couple of shots of the glow.

12 Jun 06 (Mon). We’d heard that the tropical storm that had hit Cancun where Barry and Silvia, friends of the Simpson’s were holding Silvia’s sons wedding; and where we would have been had we been riding from Alaska to Ushuaia! CNN were then hyping up the storm to a hurricane that would hit Miami and the state of Florida, but being so far south of it was not going to affect us. Fortunately for us another day of sear bliss.

13 Jun 06 (Tue). We could hear the weather deteriorating overnight; heavy rains and strong winds were lashing Antigua and by the morning it had settled down to steady rain with a few bouts of tropical downpours. This is probably the sort of day the bar and restaurant staff work hardest; no beach activities, excursions cancelled, just self help with the entertainments, the pleasure all enhanced by copious amounts of good Caribbean alcohol! All in all a very pleasant day.

14 Jun 06 (Wed). Today’s highlight was the sunset cruise on the Catamaran Falcon under command of Captain Mango and his crew Curt and Victor with Francine taking videos. Capt Mango’s safety brief was superb; it was a micky take of an airline brief but with his own twist; like “if you get the command to abandon ship make sure you take a big jump, because if you land on something hard you’re still on the boat”! It was a gentle cruise down the coast to the capital St John’s, see one huge cruise liner leaving and a turn around the harbour; another highly alcoholic event, but how relaxing. Although advertised as the sunset cruise Capt Mango had no control or contract with the sun to give a good performance on our behalf and the low cloud obscured the main event of the sun touching the sea, giving off a light show not generally seem on land.

15 – 16 Jun 06 (Thu). Mick S has been saying all week the he wanted to take out one of the Hobie Cats for a sail and today he did but unfortunately we did not get any photos of the event. Jane D also got round to taking out a canoe and was threatening to paddle around the far island that is about 3 kms off shore; but as there is no visible water safety cover and a stiff breeze she was persuaded to stay within a reasonable distance of the shore! A justified decision as when she returned she did comment that the offshore wind had quite an affect on the high sided canoe! Same routine for the 16th Jun to, a bit of sun, some sailing and canoeing, and yes the occasional rum punch.

17 Jun 06 (Sat). The parting of the ways. A very enjoyable week and if you have to arrive on holiday injured this is a very good place to do it. Although a bit frustrating that neither Mick or I could take advantage of all the facilities and explore the Island the tonic of the girls and just being able to relax was just what was required. A couple of trips in a controlled environment was just about all the shoulder could tolerate too. We are now in the process of packing suitcases and booking out; the Jane’s heading back to the UK and us back to find our bikes. Hope there are not too many tears!

We have just run the US Immigration gauntlet again! We are now in San Juan airport; we had 2 hours to catch our connecting flight to Miami and as with the outward flight last Saturday it was nowhere near sufficient time. Immigrations was the same as Miami but without the Immigration Officer behind the line selecting people; but Customs was in on the act this time, it had a queue that sapped the last spare time we had; and as we cleared the customs doors an official was sending all Americana Airways (AA) passengers to a customer service desk to be told that we were being put on an earlier flight? As our flight was about to leave we found that hard to believe until one of the staff eventually explained that our flight had been delayed by about 4 hours and we were being rescheduled to the next available flight, with our leg from Miami to Santiago being transferred from Lan Chile to AA too.

Even if everything had been smooth through immigration and customs we would have still failed to make the original flight as we were both singled out for that special treatment that we seem to attract. It would appear that since the day that Richard Ried, the British Shoe bomber did his stuff, every Brit is the target of the US system or is it that I have been unlucky that every Brit I’ve travelled with and I have been targeted? We should have gone via Gatwick.

Our intention for the next week.

Did we reach our goals of last week; Oh yes.

A correction of terminology from last week when we stated; we’re off for a suntan and table dancing! Of cause it should have been dancing on tables; no table dancing here!

Intentions for next week is to give the bikes a bit of a service, wash down and change the tyres ready to set off in two weeks time; all being well?

UPDATE 8 - SANTIAGO 08 JUN 06

2006-06-09T03:30:00.000Z

29 May - 08 Jun 06
Border to Border. Paraguay to Chile

29 May 06 (Mon). We rode from Asuncion Paraguay via Risistencia on Ruta 11 then to Presidencia Roque Saenz Pena on Ruta 16, arriving quite early in the afternoon to give us enough time to complete the web update yesterday.

We continued along Ruta 16 to Salta, a 640 kms ride and according to the map its laser straight for 550 kms of that! And it was, pretty much straight line riding with little deviation, just a change in riding distractions, we had to dodge old Macdonald’s farm yard; you name it, it was on the road! But 40 kms from Salta we decided to take a cross country detour and ride west along the Rio Pasaje, a beautiful river gorge leading to Coronel Moldes and there ride north on Ruta 68. This was fantastic; we’d been riding paved roads in straight lines for thousands of miles since getting onto Ruta 3 near Puerto Santa Cruz. It was fun, loose, with scenery and it was over 50 kms long. We did have a couple of close calls with trying to put feet on the floor while still on the move; the panniers still hit the back of the legs! This area was not only being enjoyed by us but it was also used by outdoors adventurous pursuit companies for white water rafting and bungee jumping from the bridges. When the track finished we were on the perimeter road that contoured the reservoir which offered us some great riding as well as site seeing.

Arriving in Salta a little later than expected and having ridden a little further than planned, although the detour was well worth the time. Heading for the city centre we dumped ourselves at he first hotel we found after a long day in the saddle.

30 – 31 May 06. We have decided to build a parallel website using Blogspot; 2wmc.blogspot.com so that we can dump anything on it as we go while saving the main updates for the main site. So there is not much to say about these two days, other than we saw a lot of the inside of a hotel room and a keyboard!

01 Jun 06 (Thu). If we stayed the hotel for any longer we’d start to suffer from cabin fever and we wanted to ride a circular route that looked interesting on the map, returning to the same hotel. A midmorning start, 120 miles south down Ruta 68 to Cafayate; the terrain to Alemania was flat fertile open ground, but past Alemania we rode into the some fantastic mountain scenery, still on paved roads so not only was the scenery great but the riding was good fun too. We took the opportunity to use the head cameras for what we hope will be some interesting filming. Arriving at Cafayate we dually went the wrong way around the town square and parked outside a café as soon as we realised, hoping no one had noticed; but they had; the Tourist Information guy came across on his push bike and explained that this was the only town in Argentina where the one way system is back-to-front and then he went on to give us some good information about our proposed route back.

Lunch in the town square was like sitting at a ski resort, cool air but bright warm sunshine, surrounded by mountains. Lunch was an interesting dish; we thought we’d ordered special burgers and got a steamed maize meal dish rapped in leaves; and very tasty it was too. As we ate we were treated to a flying display by a flock of brightly coloured and very noisy parrots screeching around over head.

Leaving Cafayate, we headed north on Ruta 40 for the 210 mile ride back to Salta on a parallel route west of our route down through high mountains and on gravelled tracks. It too us 2 hours to get to Cafayate and nearly 7 hours to get back! The scenery was even more spectacular than the ride down; the wide open fertile plateau of the Valles Calchaquies with hundreds of acres of vineyards, which gave way to steep gorges with narrow passes, to long views of the mountains. The track was the most demanding that we have encountered so far from the point of stability; the surface was so loose that we rarely got out of third gear and often in danger of being on our sides! It was getting to the point in the afternoon when we wanted to be off the bikes with our feet up; it was going to take longer than we thought to return to Salta

If we thought it was hard work for us, the two touring cyclists really had their work cut out, bouncing from stone to stone! When we reached Cachi, according to the GPS we had 78 kms to run home (in a straight line) but the road sign state 157 kms to Salta!! Then we hit tarmac, wide straight and in very good condition; that should be good for high speed finish to the day. Opening the throttles, the bikes were not their usual response selves! Checked the GPS and we were at 2500 metres above sea level; well that explains it; a bit of oxygen starvation; and it would not get better until we crossed the final mountain pass at an altitude of 3200 metres. They still performed well, just did not have the same poke as at lower altitudes. Riding down the other side of the mountains we were off the paved surface and back on gravel and it was altogether a more technical affair, hairpin bends and steep drops, but at least the surface was a bit more stable than earlier. Arriving late at Salta, two weary riders slumped off bikes after a 10 hour day, 7 of which was like wrestling with Mike Tyson! We had planned to sort bikes out for a prompt departure tomorrow, but that can wait and we’ll have a leisurely start instead.

02 Jun 06 (Fri). A bit of maintenance on the bikes can take a long time which put are start time back to 1130. Having got some good clear direction from Gaston, one of the hotel porters, we set off aiming north east for Ruta 51 and San Antonio de los Cobres. Unfortunately either the directions were duff or my interpretation of them was duff as we ended up on a road heading south west, now that’s 180 degrees out! Retrace our route and find a policeman who gave us some more direction; “down there and turn right” so we did; stop and ask another couple of workmen who thought the route ahead was blocked; along comes an old gent on a motorbike who joins in the advice process. “No, the road head is passable”; good we’ll head off then; “ah but; there is a bit of a river to ford”. “Okay, how deep”; “only a metre or so”!! No thanks, don’t fancy a swim with the bikes this morning if there is an alternate route. We bid them farewell and turn around again to meet the policeman who said we should have taken the next right turn – okay we’ll give it a go. Then we’re at a fording point of a river; we sit and ponder when the two workmen rock up and say they will lead us to the road we want; fantastic. Ford this bit of water and away we go. Just short of the road the workmen stop, saying it’s just around the corner over the river and straight ahead. Nearly there; around the bend and there was the river! Now in a 4 x 4 it would not be an issue but this river was about 50 metre across with a 20 metre stretch of reasonably fast flowing, boulder strewn and up to the pots in depth. Well let’s go for it; I was first bike, while Mick S remained on the bank giving useful words of advice and encouragement. The river bed was very loose and the boulders did not give much traction, just slipped away under the bike; in danger of just digging the rear wheel in. Feet down boots full of water, slipping the clutch just hoping to remain upright and gently I claw my way to the far side. I had hoped that Mick S would wait long enough for me to get a camera out before he set off, but oh no, he’d seen the errors I made and was determined to get across without getting his feet wet or be caught on camera. As I was trying to find a bit of firm ground to put the bike on the stand, he called, he was stuck, his left foot was trapped by the bike and he couldn’t move! Paddling back and helping Mick S get mobile again confirmed another age old lesson “time spent on recce is never wasted”! It might have been worth our while to check up and down the bank to for a better crossing point.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent riding to San Antonio de los Cobres along some more gravel but also a long stretch of very good quality paved road, lots of sweeping bends, wide open corners that you can see across and very few other vehicles to avoid. The road was ours, what fun; but the bikes performance started to drop off again as we steadily climb to our highest point of 4200 metres. We are now in a very cold hotel with no heating in San Antonio de los Cobres at 3800 metres. The lack of oxygen is blatantly evident as the merest task, like standing up too quickly makes you light headed and the walk down the hill (400 metre distance) to get a brew and food was a task in itself! Just sitting here typing, I can feel the affects and we didn’t even get a good sunset photo which we thought we might at this altitude.

An obvious observation having ridden all the way up the east side of Argentina through Uruguay, Paraguay and back into northern Argentina is that each change of environment brings different, interesting and potentially catastrophic challenges for us. In the Falklands and Patagonia it was sheep and geese who diced with us. Around the urbanised areas from Bahia Blanca through Buenos Aires it was traffic and pedestrians. Uruguay it was the police and dogs. The run up to Iguazu was uneventful as most of what had been on the road had been killed! Through Paraguay it was fast cars who owned the entire road and the running gauntlet of people and dogs trying to cross the road. Back into Argentina the first few hundred Kms it was birds of prey feeding of road kill and becoming road kill themselves or leaving to dangerously late to lift off and clear the road. Then it was a string of chicken, pigs, horses, donkeys, cattle and goats, you name it was on the road! Now its llamas; Mick S had to take evasive action to miss a pair who leapt in front of him this afternoon! What next?

03 Jun 06 (Sat). Today was one of those very difficult days right from the start; we did not want to start the day and when we had we just wanted it to end! We were like a couple of wet kippers and the bikes weren’t much better, they were reluctant to start too. It was probable the accumulative effect of conditions that directly influenced the final act of the day! No sleep (or very little) the night before as we were at an altitude 4000 metres in an hotel that had no heating, we slept fully clothed and still were cold! Fatigue from lack of sleep, low oxygen, heavy bikes, very cold conditions at an altitude of 4000 metres with snow, very poor track conditions and, hind sight being 20/20 we should have put a set of new tyres on. But that’s what adventures are all about; not reckless abandonment of due care but a sense of dare; we did and got a little hurt!

The objective today was to ride south about 300 kms on Ruta 43 to Antofagasta de la Sierra. Everywhere in Salta there were posters for Viaducto La Polvorilla, advertised as a monumental site worthy of a visit 20 kms south of San Antonio. It was near our route so we went to see it; yes it is a fine viaduct, but I think there has been a bit of commercial licence been used to advertise it! What is impressive about it is the sheer feat of engineering, to build the railway and all of the bridges and viaducts along this route. Apparently the line is no longer in use, but it would make a very good tourist attraction if it were.

Having left the Viaducto La Polvorilla we had our first tumble. A down hill right hander and Mick’s front wheel went its own way in soft sand and down he went, banging his left ankle (you know, the one he trapped yesterday in the river). It takes both of us to right these bikes and having done so it can then be difficult to get then to stay up on steep slopes. Recovered and on our way continuing to climb to our highest point of 4560 metres (approx 15,000ft) up some demanding tracks that were determined to unseat us and into the snowline. Spectacular views or what? To get perspective of size and distance look at the photo with the track on the left side, in the near distance, it’s about 15 metres wide and 500 metres away, then look at the same track in the far distance. I’m running out of superlatives to describe big and vast because it’s all so big! Travelling in the UK you are never far away from civilisation and those were Mick S thoughts as we road past an almost competed railway station in the middle of nowhere that look like it had been built as part of a film set and his backend kicked out. Two quick bounces and he was dispatched onto the gravel. As the forward momentum rolled him ahead of the bike he was conscious that the bike was crashing around on the gravel very near him and oh yes and that’s a left side pannier flying overhead separate from the bike landing 10 metres ahead of him! Nothing made contact with him other than the ground, thankfully.

As this was all unfolding in front of me, I was coming to a halt, looking to where I could stop my bike and get a side stand down without it falling over as well as watching Mick to make an early assessment of the situation and extent of the damage. In a situation like this you want to see movement straight away, and preferably, whinging, whining, cursing and swearing, that indicates that he’s conscious, has an airway so can breath. A silent casualty is very worrying. Mick was not silent; what a relief! He got a good roughing up from the gravel and banged that left ankle yet again but other wise was okay! This time the bike was a little bruised, dent in the tank, left rear mirror broken and the pannier ripped off. No major problems. The pannier went back on this a little field engineering and will get more attention when we reach civilisation. That’s now two downs for Mick S and three for me, he’s catching up!

We stopped at Salar de Pocitos to ask direction to Antofagasta; pointed in the right direction with advice that it was 220 kms and the first part of the track was much like we had been riding on so far but the rest was very bad!! Oh dear, that sounds like hard work as we were already getting quite physically tired from the last 110 kms of arduous ride. Well I’m just about to increase my lead. Slip sliding in the snow my back end breaks away and I’m on the floor; nice low speed drop but still an impact. As I’m going down I give the call GONE, GONE, GONE over the comms to let Mick S know that I’m no longer with him and will need help; if only to pick the bike up. He dually comes back and we get mine up on its wheels, no damage to me or machine. He turns his around and rides off as I turn mine around in a snowdrift, slip and promptly drop it again; back he comes and we do it all again. It’s now two/five, I’m still leading.

As we were coming to the end of the good bit of track we are riding on a causeway crossing a vast plateau, almost aptly named Salar del Hombre Muerte (desert of the dead man), of soft mud that look like its just been ploughed with a truck heading towards us. They was nowhere off the track and not sufficient room for us to ride past an oncoming truck with safety and he had no intensions of stopping, so we did. Not having paid close enough attention to the spot that I chose to stop at, I got the full benefit of a 6 wheeler going through a slurry like puddle. Deep joy!

We reached the end of the good track, which was good (relatively speaking) as it serviced a major mineral exploration site. The advice from Pocitos was exactly right; the bad track was very bad, it was 1500 hrs and we had 90 kms to go, probably 2 or 3 hours of very careful riding. Mick S was still leading and I got 100 metres into it when without warning I was down, just having sufficient warning to shout over the comms and I hit the floor hard, very hard and was rolling. As with Mick earlier you’re looking for the bike and trying to stay ahead of it, if you can. Fortunately the ground was very soft and the bike did one turn and the came to rest on its right side. I was hurt, winded and flat, but thought that I was generally ok and must make a move as Mick was sorting himself out to come back for me. Trying to get to my knees was a challenge and then trying to stand, the world would not stay still; I must sit down. The bike was a metre behind me and had stalled; first thing to do is switch off the ignition. With the bike on its right side, the rear wheel offers itself as the perfect seat; things were still spinning though. Mick’s initial assessment as me approached me was that riding had finished for this day. My body language and manner indicated that even if I was just bruised it was a good one! I could not raise my left arm to undo the chin strap and got Mick to do it. With every failed attempt to help myself it confirm to Mick that all was not well. Together we righted the bike and got it on its stand. Recovered the left side pannier that had separated from the bike too while I went about the charade of having enough time to get my breath back and let the body recover from the shock of impact.

It was the left shoulder that was giving me jip; so it was time to do the touch test! Yes, it was broken; my left clavicle was clearly in two pieces! Once we’d confirmed that, to go on was not an option, Mick road back 3 kms to the mineral site to get some help. As I’ve said in previous updates, it’s only when you need something do you really touch the heart and sole of a people and find out what they are really like. My recovery to civilisation and then to the main hospital in Salta was a relay over 350 kms by a Mineral Exploration Company, Minera del Altiplano at Incahuasi where I had the tumble. They collected me after Mick went to their compound and raised he alarm. Checked by the nurse Mirte and her diagnosis was a break, unfortunately that was a very easy and obvious observation! Sophia Colque who spoke English liaised with her own company for our recovery to hospital. They put us into a Pickup to drive north to be intercepted by a Pickup driving south to meet us and do a vehicle change. Vehicle change complete, we drove a 100 kms back to Salor de Pocitos at a rate that was a concern to our survivability, where we given supper, drinks and a warm welcome. On the move again, for an eye popping hair-raising 2 hour night drive to the local hospital San Antonio de los Cobres. Sitting in the front seat I had the full advantage of a clear view of it all; downhill mountain pass hairpin drive! Number 1 Parachute Training School at RAF Brize Norton as a motto “knowledge dispels fear”! I have never been convinced by that as the first parachute jump is always into the unknown and the second was more frightening because you know what’s coming! Does knowledge amplify fear; is ignorance is bliss?

San Antonio de los Cobres hospital is no more than a rural clinic, in desperate need of financial and technical support. But, as with everything else we have come into contact with, they make good with what they have and they always gave the very best. I was seen within minutes of arriving and the radiographer was called to take an x-ray on a machine that should have been consigned to a museum. It worked to fashion, but indicated a dislocated shoulder too – oh dear! Minutes after the x-ray we were in the back of the local ambulance for another hair-raising 200 km ride to Salta, but this time we were in the back and could not see out; spared the view.

At Salta, I was seen within minutes firstly by an English speaking doctor who made the first assessment, followed by the consultant’s opinion and sent for an x-ray. The Chief of Administration, Betty, was on hand that evening; a short, slight lady who’s authority was evident by the way she was treated. I’m not sure if it is normal practice but she led me off for the x-ray and chatted to me constantly in Spanish until I could get it across to her that I did not understand. She then started to chastise me in good humour for not speaking Spanish especially as I was touring on a Spanish speaking continent; supposes she’s got a point! And then she started taking the micky out of me for falling off and for riding a bike in the first place. Fortunately there was no dislocated shoulder, deep joy, just the fracture that would be put in place but traction from a figure of 8 plaster of paris cast. Easy, job done, carry on with riding in a months time.

04 Jun 06 (Sun). It’s now 0300 hrs on Sunday morning and we are back in the hotel that we left 48 hrs ago and will remain here until the end of the week, while we recover the bikes that were left at Incahuasi; where they are being secured and their transportation to us in Salta arranged. I think we should see them on Monday or Tuesday.

Now the day that we didn’t really want to start had ended; it was a long one.

05 – 06 Jun 06. Mick S liaised with Mariana Fulco from Minera del Altiplano the mineral company regarding the recovery of the bikes from Incahuasi to Salta. They will put then on one of there trucks arriving here on Wednesday at about midday. The remaining time was getting a bit of exercise and some local site seeing (see pics of local buildings), getting some rest as we were both sore; Mick’s left ankle and my shoulder. With limited shoulder mobility and unable to use my left hand for much, Mick was tying my shoe laces, putting on my shirt etc, he said it took him back to the days when his youngest was about four; but he did draw the line….

07 Jun 06 (Wed). By midday we should have had the bikes back but there was a delay with the trucking company, they did not leave Incahuasi until later and would be in Salta by about 1730 hrs. I had to get medical report from the hospital for my insurance and I also wanted to get a second opinion on my shoulder; not that the original diagnosis was incorrect just that the treatment excessive. The second doctor did advise that the plaster cast could come off and be replaced by a figure 8 velcro and elastic strap that I could buy from a local orthopaedic shop. That was easier said than done with my lack of Spanish, but we succeed and it is more comfortable and gives me the chance to have a shower.

Getting the hospital report for the insurance was by shear chance and fluke of timing. I walking to the hospitals main entrance, stood there and wandered which way to go, turned and bumped into Doctor Facundo P. Arganaraz Olivero the English speaking doctor who saw me when I arrived in casualty early on Sunday morning. He asked how I was and if the treatment was ok – of course! I asked for a hospital report but he explained that as I was not admitted as a patient the hospital does not maintain a record. If you are walking wounded you are patched up and sent on your way. Any follow-up is the responsibility of the patient. And he was very busy and could not do a hand written statement for me just now. With a pained expression I explained that we were leaving Salta tomorrow and… He produced one there and then.

At 1700 hrs we when to the offices of Minera del Altiplano to meet the truck with our bikes. The haulier arrived with no trucks but drove us to his yard some 10 kms away where the bikes had been off loaded and were being cleaned by his men. They also looked in the same condition as we had left them on Saturday afternoon, not bad really when you think that they had a 350 kms journey in the back of a truck over some very rugged terrain! We collected all of the loose bits and put then into the haulier’s pickup and Mick rode both bikes in shuttle run back to the hotel being led by the haulier to make sure he did not get lost. The bikes are now safely parked in the hotel garage and will stay there until we return from the Caribbean.

08 Jun 06 (Thu). We are now on the move again, starting a long journey to the Caribbean to meet our wives. Because we did not make our objective this week of riding to Santiago Chile, we will have a 2 ½ days, 5 plane relay to complete it! Already we are delayed and we have not got to the first aircraft. As yesterday, there is heavy morning fog in the valley of Salta and yesterday it took until midday before it had burnt off. The plane we are due to get at 0920 hrs to Buenos Aires has been diverted to wait for the fog to lift. We had a 41/2 hour delay, not taking off until 1350 hrs but the pilot cut the estimated flying time from 2 hrs 15mins to 1 hr 40 mins, not bad! It was then a dash across Buenos Aires to the other airport; well we wanted it to be a dash but the taxi driver had other ideas, probably his licence! We arrive at the next airport, Aeroparque Jorge Newbery at 1650 and were on the plane and taxiing down the runway towards Santiago at 1740 hrs; that was close.

The weather in Bs Aires was oppressively humid after the clear airs of Salta at 1600 metres ASL and above, with a serious storm looming as we took off and climbed to altitude then there was some of the most severe turbulence that I have encountered for a long time. Arriving at Santiago to very cooler conditions and rain, Mick recons that the accident might have been a blessing in disguise as the conditions over the Andes might have been quite difficult! Not sure that I agree with that, being the one with the sore shoulder!

That’s all for this week; we’re off for a suntan and table dancing; just hope I don’t fall off!

Our intention for the next week.

Did we reach our goals of last week; No, We were running ok until the mishap on Saturday.

Intentions for next week should be obvious, achievable and attainable!

P. S. Many thanks to those of you from the parachuting fraternity with those very useful, helpful and encouraging comments and tips on how to land! I’ll try some of them next time!

UPDATE 7 - ASUNCION 28 MAY 06

2006-05-30T22:01:00.000Z

19 – 28 May 06
Buenos Aires to Asuncion

19 May 06 (Fri). Having completed the bikes service late yesterday evening we still had to change a tyre. This morning I stripped the panniers and top box from my bike to take it to a “gomeria” (tyre garage). What a difference having taken all the weight of the bike, it becomes quite agile. What we wanted to do, was repair and fit the tyre that had been punctured when we rode out of Torres del Paine last week, so that we run the two partially worn tyre to slicks then fit new ones; need to use as much of the tread as possible as replacements are not that easy to get and are not cheap!. It does mean that we will be carrying a total of seven tyres until the next tyre change.

I was looking for a gomeria that looked as if it could handle the task so was aiming for a large well equipped one that we saw yesterday. I presented the problem and he pointed me in the direction of a motorcycle shop just up the road. The proprietor of the bike shop spoke excellent English and explained that he takes the tyres off the bikes and takes them back down the road for the original gomeria to fix them. I can do that! So round the block to a back street gomeria who spoke no English but new what was required; wheel off in no time, old tyre off, just as well as it had a blister in the side wall. The punctured tyre was put on the rim, then it was time to seal the bead, not so easy! The solution was to insert a tube leaving the valve sticking out of the rim, high pressure air pops the bead into place and extract the tube, fully inflate; job done. Now just find the puncture, remove, repair, replace, pay and go. That was straight forward; so it’s not always the biggest brightest shop that can produce the goods!

My brother had done a bit of research for us too by visiting the guys at ATS Ripon to see how they’d do it. Their advice and a trick they use on tractor tyres is to use a ratchet strap around the tyre treat to compress the tyre onto the rim attempting a seal; inflate and release the strap and the tyre should seat correctly on the beads. Thanks lads, we’ll try that next time the gomeria is struggling.

Concurrent activity by Mick S was to get some cling film to wrap the tyres with, dry rations to store on the bikes in case we are stuck in the wilds with no help and to book the tickets for the ferry crossing to Uruguay tomorrow. Shopping was easy but in the process of wandering the streets of BA to find a supermarket he managed to get himself completely disorientated as I had the map. Taxi! As it happens he was only about six blocks away but we both had to go later to the ferry terminal with passports and vehicle documents so that we could book tickets. Having booked it was then to another desk to pay and collect tickets. When we had paid and collected the tickets we found that we had been charge for cars not bikes; could not be bothered with the agro of trying to recover £6.

The early evening was spent having a couple of beers with Nick Tozer (on the left) who had sorted out our needs at short notice in Buenos Aires, thanks we are most grateful. We also took the opportunity to pick his brains regarding all things local and get a wider perspective of travelling in South America; a very informative couple of hours. When he departed we continued the motion!

20 May 06 (Sat). The ferry crossing by fast catamaran from Buenos Aires to Colonia, Uruguay; it covered the 31 mile crossing of the river Plate in an hour. Immigrations for both countries were dealt with in Bs Aires, as was clearing Argentinean Customs. Uruguay Customs was a pleasant formality of form filling by a friendly relaxed officer who wished us well for our journey. The decision was to stay in Colonia or ride straight to Montevideo? It was a beautiful day and having got the feel that this was a small quaint and very old town we opted to stay. Having spent well below budget for the last week or more and having seen the signs for the Sheraton we thought lets look at it and see if the prices are acceptable! It was 5 kms out of town which was a nice ride. As we approach the area of the hotel, on the far side of the road was a group of girls jumping up and down waving and shouting in our general direction; obviously weren’t trying to get our attention; but they were! We swung round to be confronted by 4 bouncy young ladies all trying to explain that tone of the scooter they had hired for the day had conked out and could we help. Obviously we’d try; Mick S got straight to work kicking over the engine, looking knowledgeable making the right noises, check the there was a spark at the plug. From his reaction, there was a very good spark! The girls were all from the University of La Plata on a day out from Argentina. When we put fuel in and continued to kick it over with no joy, they said they’d call the hire company to deal with it. After a few photos we headed of to the Sheraton having failed to start it. Did I say the bike couldn’t attract the fairer sex or was it maidens in distress; who cares, we obviously don’t need puppies (see comment from 18 May 06)

The Sheraton was an extravagance not worthy of the money! Having booked in we wanted to have a walk around Colonia which was founded by the Portuguese then taken by the Spanish. Its one of those places that is a magnet to the travelling young, the main street was full of youngsters looking for accommodation or eating, talking and drinking; a very relaxed environment. We circled the old town ascending the lighthouse to get some photos and wandered the old town walls where the grass banks were being used as toboggan runs using cardboard. As we were admiring the old drawbridge 4 scooters bounced into sight with girls waving and shouting. They had got their scooter started first kick, probably helped by the petrol we put into it! More photos, and they showed us the duty free bargain they’d bought on the ferry, saying the we should by our wives some presents, we explained that we had no room on the bikes, but that did not wash with them! All parted our separate ways them to the ferry and us for a beer and watch the sun go down, but had to get some cash first. Back to that dilemma again, how much do you cash not knowing the exchange rate, the machine was offering 400, 600, 800 etc. I opted for 400 but soon found that it would only buy a sandwich, it equated to about £2.50.

Supper in the Sheraton was very pleasant except for the accompanying musicians, one on an out of tune guitar and the other on a saxophone playing too loudly.

21 May 06 (Sun). The drive to Montevideo was along Ruta 1, lined for most of the way by an avenue of trees. It was very pleasant change from the routes of Argentina. The speed limit on this section of road was a sedate 90 kph but we were doing a little more than that when we crested a hill to find a policeman in the middle of the road inviting us to pullover. Ever so polite he asked for documents and then with his sidekick explained that we were speeding and there would be a fine etc, etc. With Mick S’s Spanish and their charades we managed to understand that it would be US$ 120 each!! Then the pace and tone of the conversation change and by the end of our stay with them we were light of about US$140, they wished us well on our journey (more slowly) but we had no ticket or receipt; we obviously had just contributed to their Christmas fund!

We had been handed over to Gustavo Meikle (Gus right, Santiago second right) by Nick when we left Bs Aires; its like being on the run in the Second World War being passed down the ratline! Arriving in Montevideo we found Gus’s apartment, and the accommodation that we had arranged for us. Cup of tea first the he had arrange for a friend who has a bike to give us a tour of the city. Santiago Badano arrived with his girlfriend Luciana on a Honda CBR600 and led us for an hour or more around the city, stopping to explain the most interesting features as we went. We were starting to feel the cold even with full riding kit on but they just had jeans and light jackets and were freezing. We went back to Gus’s flat (having sorted ourselves out at the accommodation) and he provided us with food and drink. We chatted for ages about routes and current situations in many of the countries we were hoping to head through. As per usual we opted for an early night having arranged to meet for lunch the following day.

22May 06 (Mon). We were up early having decided to walk the streets of Montevideo for the day. First stop the naval museum to see the gun from the German WW2 Battle ship Graf Spee. Fortunately it was the show piece outside as again we had timed it just right and it was a bank holiday. Every where was shut? We walked up through the city to the football stadium; the very one that hosted the first ever world cup in 1930. We made our way through the centre and down to the old port area where we would meet Gus for lunch. It was one of those short distance on the map long, long walks and we were relieved at arriving at the RV. Carlos Jones turned up with another guy who was to be our chauffer for the afternoon as Gus could not make it. We took lunch in what was originally destined to be the railway station for Buenos Aires shipped out flat packed from the UK, but it got stranded and forgotten about in Montevideo and eventually sold at auction and erected as a covered market serving the port area. At some stage someone set up a grill and it evolved into a fantastic indoor hall of Barbecues.

We finished lunch and set off for our second tour of the city. We only overlapped with the parliament building but we did go out to the Hill that begot the city its name. When the Portuguese discovered this area the sailor up a mast on lookout shouted down “I see a hill” and that translates to Montevideo! That evening we went back Gus’s flat where he and his partner entertained us with beer and food for a second night. Very many thanks for you hospitality.

23 May 06 (Tue). Before departing on the three day ride back into Argentina and on to Iguazu Fall Gus wanted to take some pictures for his pal that worked for Focus magazine, an in-house MoD paper and another chap turned up for some local paper or magazine to take photos also. Pictures done and we were off at a painfully slow 90 KPH all the way to a town called Salto back on the Argentine border heading north. We were still smarting from the fine and we were also going to be riding Ruta 14 which is notorious on various travel internet site for having to run the gauntlet of corrupt police check points! The midway stop was Salto a town renowned for its hot springs (Thermals) but we did not bother taking advantage of them. We got our heads down after a long day in the saddle and took an early start in the morning. I slept like a log but Mick D was entertained, not by choice I might add, by the young couple next door obviously invigorated by the hot spring waters!

24 - 26 May 06. We headed further North to the Brazilian border, crossed with no formalities other than stopping for a photo and to make sure there were no formalities and the short 70 km stretch to the crossing point back into Argentina for the third time. We rocked up at the check point to be greeted by three or four female customs officers, all of whom were smoking and immediately started gesturing towards the pile of tyres we each had on our bikes. The gist of it was that they wanted us to pay tax on the tyres. That may be a fair one on the tyres we brought from the UK but not the tyres we had bought at over full price in Buenos Aires. Fortunately the most officious of the bunch gave up with my pathetic Spanish and stormed off to find another customs girl that spoke English. She continued in the same vein but after she realised her English was just about as good as my Spanish she too gave up and escorted us to the offices. She took our passports and the receipt for the tyre purchase in BA through to a back office. She emerged several minutes later with a whole different attitude; she took us to the immigration desk and then back to her desk to process the customs form. A shake of hands and a “gracias” or two and finally over an hour later we cleared the check point have not parted with any cash. We will see what happens when we emerge from Paraguay back into Argentina. We stopped for lunch then continued north. It was clear we would not make Iguazu by night fall and so we looked for another over night stop, the small town of Santo Tome and we pulled in to locate a hotel, as we passed an accident on a side road eye caught the glare of a “transito” cop but carried on. I think they are a cross between traffic cops, traffic wardens and community support officers, only these get motorbikes. We pulled up a few moments later and were discussing where to go and they pulled up behind us like the California Highway Patrol! They asked where we were from and ask where we were going. I said we were looking for a hotel knowing full well that we were sat almost opposite one. They of course told us the obvious and in such a manner that we decided that we would stop there. They ensured we dismounted and entered the hotel before they departed. Not a bad place and dirt cheap, no restaurant so we ventured into town in search of sustenance. The Casino! More like a converted picture house bingo hall but it did food and pretty good for the price at that. We awoke in the morning to find that the police had stayed the night also, four hoods with shot guns and various other bits and pieces; they loaded their pick up as we readied ourselves for the continued journey north bound on Ruta 14 and the gauntlet of the notorious dodgy police checkpoints.

We had a trouble free day stopped at only one check point and asked where from and to then waved on and we made good progress. The scenery has changed noticeably again and we have moved through forestry areas of pine and eucalyptus to sub tropical forest. It is now an altogether more lush and pleasing environment. The sun has been out all day without a cloud in the sky, absolutely beautiful. We arrived at Iguazu by about 2pm and found ourselves a hotel having first gone to the park entrance to see the lay of the land so to speak. Only one Hotel in the park, the Sheraton and $300 US per night, no thanks! We used the afternoon getting up to date with our diaries, a couple of beers and plan for the visit to the falls in the morning.

For us Ruta 14 was as any other Ruta that we’ve travelled, police manning their checkpoints presenting us with no problems or harassment.

26 May 05 Fri. Iguazu Falls is truly a magnificent sight, but not just one fall a horseshoe of about 3 kms of waterfall cascading 180 cubic metres of water a second down a terraced wall that produces a mass of spray producing almost constant rainbows. Words can not do this sight justice so here are a pile pictures!

And if the truth be known we’re too knackered to write any more!!

27 May 06 (Sat). Iguazu through the Argentine Brazilian border and through the Brazilian border to Paraguay. Clear Argentina clearance no problem, Aduada Officer stamped our BMW service sheet from Buenos Aires where we bought new tyres that we are carrying as the Argentine customs at Clorinda tried to charge us import tax! Brazilian enter and exits were straight forward, but for the sullen Brazilian immigrations office on exit, the epitome of an official who has power and can make you wait without explanation or reason. Crossing the bridge into Paraguay was an experience to behold, a mass of humanity streaming both ways carrying what ever they could get cheaply on the other size. Tyres going from Brazil to Paraguay and electrical goods going the other way. To the uninitiated it looked like chaos but I’m sure that it was organised chaos? Mick S went to the Paraguayan Immigrations and Customs and got us both cleared while I stood watch over the bikes. I think we both had an interesting time; Mick S trying to get customs to fill some paperwork in so that we had something to say that the bikes were imported officially but they probably would have really not bothered! I was entertained by a string of peddlers offering all and sundry, butt the only service I accepted was to have my boots cleaned. What was the real madness on the bridge was hundreds of motorbike taxis. That transport pedestrians from one border post to the other. They made London couriers look positively sedentary! Regular Police check points en-route, we slowed for all; one made a late call to stop us, I’d already gone through and Mick followed hoping that we would not be stopped further alone our route!

The intention was to try to drive straight through Paraguay in one day but all the border crossings just took a little longer that expected. Driving is straight forward; all road signs are advisory!! You share the road with everything and anything, big is best and if it large Lexus who is obviously important and he wants your side of the road while overtaking towards you, you move! Do not loose concentration or misjudge the conditions or you’ll end up clipping a bus or something!

On the dual carriageway there was a concrete centre reservation separating the two directions of traffic with no crossing points or safe havens for pedestrians. They all take their lives in their hand and stand or sit on the centre barrier and run when they think they have enough safe space to make the crossing. A small dog did this and landed just alongside my bike, I missed it but the traffic behind did not; SPLAT!!!!

Overnight in the capital Asuncion gave us a chance for a quick look around the local area. Poverty oozes from the edges of the main commercial arteries of this poor country. We were taking photos of a couple of the main buildings and ventured too close to the shanty for the comfort of the static police posts who advised us that we really should not be in this area. What fortune; a religious parade too!

28 May 06 (Sun). As the weather over the last few days has reached highs of 35 degrees C we wanted to get an early start to ride in the cool of the morning and as breakfast is at 0630 that would do nicely. Lift to the top floor prompt a 0630, breakfast and a chance to see the sunrise. Doors open, the place was in darkness, ah, wrong floor down to the other floor, no lights, down to reception to confirm that breakfast was at 0630; correct. What time is it now – 0530, bugger, could have had another hour in bed and we have lost the time advantage.

A 45 kms ride to the border with Argentina and a police check point just before. This was it; they started as normal passport, driving licence, vehicle docs, all in order. Now what, oh yes, vehicle insurance, yes but in English and it did not actually say Paraguay, got you he thought , No Mick S explained in Spanish that it was an international insurance document. It worked, now what, vaccination certificates, yes we had them too. Ah yes, we were carrying and must have imported all those tyres, this is where Mick’s persistence on entering the country paid off, we had a customs form that covered that. We were allowed to go without paying any fines which I think was the whole purpose of the stop and I’m sure we would not have got a receipt either; more Christmas funds! Crossing into Argentina was without a hitch very helpful and not concerned about the tyres. We are no heading west towards Salta.

Our intention for the next week:

Did we reach our goals of last week; we are running a couple of days later than we thought. The intention for the next week is to:

29 May 06 (Mon). Ride to Salta

30 May – 08 Jun. Ride west and south covering the Atacama Desert and the Valle de la Luna “The valley of the Moon”. Finishing in Santiago Chile, before we park the bikes for and flying to the Caribbean to meet our wives for a week R&R.

UPDATE 6 - BUENOS AIRES 18 MAY 06

2006-05-30T21:52:00.000Z

12 – 18 May 06
EL CALAFATE – BUENOS AIRES

12 May 06(Fri). Riding without all our kit was a pleasant change as rode the 50 miles to the Pargue Nacional Los Glaciares to see the Glaciar Perito Moreno which is 14 kms in length with a frontage of 5 kms and the height of the front wall was 50 – 55 metres! Truly spectacular visually as well an audio sensation as the glaciar slowly creeps forward at about 2 metres per day, you cannot see the creep, but you can hear it. Grinding and groaning as the ice pushes into the Lago. Then there is a roll of thunder, a big groan and splash as chucks of ice breakaway from the wall and fall into the water. It took us awhile to workout what was happening because all the noise seemed to be coming from the far left and far right which was out of sight to us. But patience and luck paid off as a piece about 20 metres across and 10 metres high broke off right in front of us. You never have a camera setup at the right time! But we did get some shots of the ripple it caused. There was a warning notice at the viewing point stating that falling ice travel some distance and 32 people had been killed by getting too close.

Glaciers done, timefor a bit of bike servicing, check all nuts and bolts, tighten loose spokes and find that the “Big Foot” plate on my side stand had gone. It’s a bolt-on plate that gives about twice the footprint size of the original side stand plate. Not a show stopper, just an irritation that this was the second plate that had fallen off. It’s a very useful piece of kit but an arse design and not worth the money. Plate and welder would do the job. Other than that the bikes are in good condition and ready for a few days of high mileage to achieve out objectives of this week. Staying with duff kit, we’re not convince that the BMW Motorrad Rallye 2 Pro riding suit is value for money; so far both seams have split on the cuffs of Mick Ss’ inner gortex jacket and the plastic tie ends on the zips around the jacket are falling off with unnecessary regularity!

13 may 06 (Sat). 500 miles today. We had given ourselves two days to ride to the area of Peninsula Valdes, which is 900 miles from El Calafate; this would mean two long days in the saddle. Leaving El Calafate as the sun was rising; still late this far south at 0900, the mountains behind us were starting to get some early morning colour and with a full moon over them it would have made a superb photograph. But we did not stop; its one of those things about having started on a cold morning, finally zipped the last zip you just want to get going – a missed opportunity and the mountains were gone.

This morning we were to travel almost the whole width of Argentina due east without deviation. The first 50 Kms was on a good paved road but once this dipped south, our route was on a graded track of dubious quality. The start was like riding on marbles, just like that section of road in the Falklands; but this track was going to be 200 kms long! Not only marbles to contend with, there were rock the size of cricket balls that would be thrown up to smash into your toes; opportunity for a few choice words! Trying to stay in a straight line or negotiate a corner was interesting to say the least. Where other vehicles had travelled, they had produced furrows which were good if you could stay in them. To change lane, meant manoeuvring the bikes over small ridges of stones that would make the bike twitch, it go anywhere except where you wanted to go. The front end would try to washout and the back end insists on coming round to be the front end. The trick, apparently is to power over the obstacle, lightening the front end so it does not get too much traction and you can skip the bump! Oh, then there were the deep holes that would spring up just in front to the front wheel, dropping the bikes hard on the suspension till the stops hit home.

To maintain the “running the gauntlet” feel the obligatory sheep played chicken with us on a number of occasions. One particular incident, about 20 sheep ran from the safety of one side of the track across our path to the other. The first bike cleared them without problems, loads of room! However, one sheep decided that it would be safe on the side she’d come from so turn and ran at the second bike missing it by a gnats obvious! The bonus today was that there were no geese who wanted to play with us.

Although it was a demanding ride and as we climbed to 550 metres the temperature dropped, the scenery was not very interesting and that would be the scenery for the next two days, a flat barren land that with views to the horizon. We made it to route 3 the main north – south highway running down the eastern side of Argentina in three hours, to then head north for another 550 kms to reach Caleta Olivia. Caleta Olivia had the feeling of a frontier town. We sensed that this was lawless at its best, rowdy, old bangers, small bikes scooting about and sense of threatening. Our first stop was to refuel at a very busy noisy and bustling place, but very friendly and as always people interested to find out what we were doing. And to be told that Mick S had a puncture – not again, but at least this time we were in civilisation.

Hotel found and tyre repair shop identified we set about removing the rear wheel for repair. This is an easy job with the right kit and the know-how. It took the shop 10 minutes to find the puncture remove the tyre, fix it, refit the tyre and charge us the exorbitant fee of 5 pesos (£1).

14 May 06 (Sun). What a sunrise over the Golfo San Jorge, spectacular colours that changed rapidly; we were lucky to catch these ones.

It was going to be a 400 mile dash today which started with a police check at the provincial border crossing between the provinces of Chubut to Rio Negro, just passports and vehicle documents. Then it was point north to the horizon where the straight road disappears and keeps going. Apart from a few short sections of bends and a couple of hills we just rode in a straight line. Well except for the dog the size of an Afghan hound that made a dash out of cover from the far curb destined to meet us about mid carriageway! A yell over the bike radios DOG, DOG ,DOG was the alert. To compound the event were two fast and heavy trucks coming towards us and the dog with no time to stop without hitting something, I was hoping it would be the dog! Sixth sense told the dog that he was in a survival situation with an immediate exit required before he was hit by a truck or he hit one of us. Speed and agility was on his side, he did a 180 and made it back to his start point before any of us made contact with him. What a relief. Other than the dog, we had a sheep, geese free day, what joy excep.

The target town for the night stop was Rawson sitting at the mouth of Rio Chubut just east of Trelew. Trelew is part of the Welsh settlements dating back the landings of Welsh settlers at Puerto Madryn in 1865. We decided not to stay in Rawson as it looked as though it was closed! A coastal resort that caters for the holiday makers and did not appear to have much to offer us and we could do with getting a little closer to Peninsula Valdes. We left Rawson via Trelew and as we were on the ring road skirting the town itself we passed by the local tip, rubbish strewn and plastic bags on the wind as crowds of scavengers raked trough the deposited waste. For the next few miles the landscape was littered with thousands of polythene bags snagged on the stunted plants.

Arriving in Puerto Madryn at 1600 the hotel Bahia Nueva offered a good deal with secure parking and would be our base for the next two nights. This is a busy town with lots of Argentinean tourists and a bustling night life; not that we seem to be doing much night life, it’s about all we can do to get out to eat and sleep!

15 May 06 (Mon). When we arrived at Trelew’s yesterday we were astonished at the rise in the temperature. We’d come off the high ground at a high of 650 meters to sea level in a very short period of time where the temp had risen to about 20 degrees C. So today having check the temp assumed that we had arrived at summer and could ditch the thermals. Well as we got to Peninsula Valdes we were certain that we’d made the wrong decision, a damp overcast day with wind!

The Peninsula Valdes is a nature sanctuary where whales, orcas, seals, sea lions, penguins etc congregate at different times throughout the year. Unfortunately we were at the wrong time to everything except some seals and sea lions. Oh to have seen a whale, or even better attend an Orcas seal feast, it’d be like a beach barbeque, bring your own seal!

The riding was interesting as the peninsula has a perimeter track of 210 kms of gravelled track. Marbles again with a couple of exits into the side when it all got too much and my speedo cable broke!

16 May 06 (Tue). Now the push to Buenos Aires with a ride of 560 miles, with most of it leaning on the wind until we crossed the Rio Colorado at Rio Colorado and headed east with a strong tail wind, shear luxury. Rio Colorado also marked a significant change in terrain and agriculture. Arable and beef farming, with fields the size of counties and as we rode further east the extent of the agriculture increased, becoming more industrialised and on a grander scale.

17 May 06 (Wed). The final 350 mile ride to Buenos Aires was without incident or real note worthy comment. Or have I lost the will to type? The approach to the city was as you’d expect from any capital city, high speed motorway feeding into it and then traffic confusion as everyone tries to get their lane for the exit. We lost count of the number of tolls we had to pay and each time we cleared a barrier it was wacky races all over again!

From our week in the Falklands we had met John Fowler who wrote an article about us, but more important he gave us a contact in Bs Aires, Nick Tozer who could help if needed. John also gave us a contact in Uruguay who we have been talking to about the next leg. We had spoken to Nick last night and he was trying to find us a hotel and the details of the BMW dealership. The arrangement was to get into the city centre and phone him for an update. Finding a place to stop without incurring the wrath of traffic wardens was fun, not helped in the fact that there was a protest rally marching through the city centre as we were trying to get through. We also had our first offer of drugs, well it looked like plastic bags of herbs so we assumed it was and told him to sod off!

We contacted Nick who asked where we were; gave him the street name and in a flash he explained where we were and how to get to a hotel that he thought would be suitable with secure parking. His directions were spot on, not a false turn or deviation, straight to the front door. He came to meet us and give us some useful advice about South America, travelling around it and some do’s & don’t. But most importantly he had located BMW and liaised with them for tyres, speedo cable and an oil change.

18 May 06 (Thu). A ride through downtown Buenos Aires to BM W Corasco Motohaus is much like any other city in the world; taxis and those who know where they are going being intolerant of the unsure tourist who is not exactly sure which turning he wants. Adopting the usual defensive posture with two Beamers riding in close formation, one blocking for the other, as well as the threat that we might clipping their car wing with our panniers seems to give us just about enough room to manoeuvre. We were off to get a pair of rear tyres and an oil change. We arrived at Corasco Motohaus to be met by Nick who was standing in the road making sure that we did not overshoot the shop front and Marclo Sole and Large Finnen who would sort out our requirements. Nick opened the batting in Spanish, explaining to Large what we needed; that was fine; ah, but Large explained in very clear English that the tyres come in sets of a front and rear, you cannot separate them. That’s about double the rubber we need and do not really want to carry the extra front as we both still have an unused one each. This does mean that we will be carrying two fronts and a rear as spares each. A bit excessive but we must have the rear tyres as mine is now a slick having covered over 4000 miles of quite demanding riding. Mick Ss’ rear tyre still has a few millimetres of tread, but it would be a case of “penny wise pound foolish” if we did not take the opportunity to get new rubber now and fully prepare ourselves for the next few thousand miles.
The oil change would not be a problem nor fitting the speedo cable, but what they suggested was that the bikes have covered a good distance already and are going to continue to work hard until the next service opportunity; whenever that might be? They offered to clear bikes of their service schedule to provide a full BMW service today in order that we can still make our ferry to Uruguay tomorrow. Now that’s service.

We left BMW and walked back to the hotel in the pouring rain via a tool shop to get a replacement spanner that broke the other day. It is amazing, everywhere we go with the bikes or in riding cloths people are curious about what we are doing, when we explain the aspiration there is disbelief, amusement, amazement and encouragement. This shop was no exception.

Just collected the bikes, full service plus two tyres and a speedo cable 1800 pesos (£369) and all done with no appointment. A hearty thanks to Marclo and Large.

During our research for this trip we read numerous reports on various websites of the friendly encounters from all quarters that is initiated by the presence of these sorts of bikes. It’s the equivalent of taking a puppy for a walk; the difference is that if you’re a bloke with a puppy, it’s likely to be a lady who engages you in conversation. With bikes, its more blokes (must get a puppy too)!

Charities. Thank you to all of you who have made donations to the Macmillan Cancer Support charity your donations are very gratefully received and will help to make a difference to all those who are suffering.

The Pirate Trust “just for kids” has received a donation from British Airways in the form of a number of tickets for the London Eye and have been auctioned during PirateFM Radiothon charity auction. We would like to thank British Airways for their support. Unfortunately we do not know how much they made yet?

Although we are trying to raise money for The Pirate Trust we are being frustrated by the in ability to donate. The Pirate Trust has applied for registration with http://www.justgiving.com/ and when they have completed the formalities with “justgiving” and the Inland Revenue it will provide a secure site to make donations. Please be patient.

Contacting us. On the website Comments box we added a permission to print box for anyone who would be happy for their emails to be published. We would like to post your emails on the website as there are some funny, rude and informative ones that we would like to share. We will not publish your email unless you’ve ticked the affirmative or if we think the content is unsuitable. By unsuitable I mean a personal email to us or the sender or it could be compromising!! Please let us know if we can publish.

Statistics:
We have been out of the UK for 28 days and we have:
Travelled by air nearly 8000 miles
Ridden:
Days in the saddle 20 days
Days out of the saddle 8
Miles ridden 4000
Hours of ridding 61
Average speed 51 mph
Fuel used 430 lts

Our intention for the next week.

Did we reach our goals of last week; yes just about, but only with some long days in the saddle. The intention for the next week is to:

20 May 06 (Sat). Ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay.

21 May 06 (Sun). Ride to Montevideo

23 - 24 May. Ride to Iguazu Falls on the tri borders of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay.

25 May 06 (Thu). Iguazu Falls

26 May 06 (Fri). Cross Paraguay from Puerto Pres Stressnor to Asuncion. Intending to then head off west across Argentina to the Valle de la Luna “The valley of the Moon”

UPDATE 5 - PUERTO NATALES 11 MAY 06

2006-05-30T21:48:00.000Z

05 - 11 May 06
PUNTA ARENAS - USHUAIA - PUERTO NATALES.

05 May 06 (Fri). The aim for today was to get cracking early and drive the 622 kms (400 miles) from PA to Ushuaia. The plan last night was reveille 0600, breakfast 0630, load bikes 0700, on the road 0730. We were on time for the first deadline; we were a bit late for the second and the rest just went for a ball of chalk! This is the first day that we have loaded the bikes with all the kit. With quite a lot of fannying around we managed to get them loaded, secured, stable and on the road for 0900. Who said they are 300 Kgs all up weight? I think a bit more than that and they’re top heavy too.
There were two options for crossing the Magellanes Straights, the first is the ferry from PA due east to Porvenir on Teirra del Fuego, it’s a 2 – 3 hr ferry trip and the ferry leaves once a day at 0900 from PA (we were already pressed to get that one) and there’s still a two hour ride to the Chilean/Argentine border. The second option and the one we opted for was a 200 km ride north then east following the Magellan Straights to Puerto Espora and get a ferry that run every 30 minutes; much more flexible. Then ride to San Sebastian to cross the border from Chile into Argentina. The road to Puerto Espora was paved, in good condition all the way and should have been a straight forward run; what made the ride sporting was the gale that was blowing from the west. We were physically leaning the bikes onto the wind until we turned east and had a tail wind. There was the obligatory flock of Upland Geese (or the equivalent) that would leave it to the last minute before lifting and then flying directly towards us. I wonder if they are closely related to or trained by sheep? Other interests were the Choique (the Lesser Rhea) and Lamas Guanaco (Lama Guanicoe – English) by the roadside.

The crossing from Puerto Espora was quick and simple, as we arrived a ferry bow door opened and traffic drove on, 30 minutes later we drove off south. Now the wind was coming from the right, still leaning and now no paved surface just hard packed graded surface that was generally good but did try to catch us out occasionally with a large pothole or two.

A lesson already known, but driven home today was; never pass gas; that does not mean there’s no farting; it means if there is the opportunity to fill-up with petrol, do not pass the chance to fill up with petrol! Although the bikes arrived with full tanks from the Falklands and we did just over 60 miles that afternoon, Mick S reckoned that we should fill up as we were leaving Punta Arenas, but I reckoned that we had enough for what we wanted to do and anyway, there must be fuel on the way; wrong. With the 60 plus mile covered on the 4th and the 220 mile this morning our fuel warning lights were on long before reaching the Chilean border at San Sebastian on Tierra del Fuego. As we ran south at a good pace, we were evermore conscious that fuel would be a requirement fairly soon; no I think critical is more like the term! The countdown km markers for San Sebastian suggested that we would be sucking fumes by the time we got there, assuming I had enough, but Mick S should be okay as he had a little more in the tank than I did. Assumption; there will be fuel at a major town with a customs post; wrong. There is no town, just a few houses and scattered barns and no fuel on the Chilean side. The next fuel was to be at the Argentine border post another 14 kms away. Having cleared Chilean customs we entered no-mans land and hoped that we had enough fuel to make the distance – we did. The bikes have a 30 litre tank; mine took 30.1 litres! We were very please to clear customs at both points without any delays and with the assistance of friendly and helpful officials.

Fully fuelled, fed and watered we were ready to tackle the last 300 kms through the Rio Grande, around the eastern edge of Lago Fagnano and onto Ushuaia. Easy, one road, head south, easy except for that wind. It was a bright sunny but bitterly cold day with the westerly increasing in strength and as Tierra del Fuego is flat and almost featureless there is nothing to brake the wind until you are nearing the end of the world!

As we approached Lago Fagnano the mountains of Sierra de Injugoyen and Sierra Alvear started to break up the wind and the pressure was off. The scenery became more interesting as did the riding but the roads were wet and slippery and with these heavily laden bikes, on our first day fully loaded a little caution was required. The mountains backlit by an orange sunset made a pleasant finish to a good days riding.

All that was left to do as we drove into Ushuaia, with the town slogan of “The end of the world, the beginning of everything” was to find somewhere to stay, get some local cash and have something to eat. The first hotel we saw was the Canal Beagle we pulled in and as it’s out of season we were offered a very good rate for three nights with a large underground garage to secure the bikes. Accommodation sorted now for some cash, how much should you draw when you don’t know what the exchange rate is, just get loads it’ll be spent. And for food look for somewhere that looks popular, walking around most restaurants and they are almost empty, not a good recommendation. But there again we were eating at Brit times about an hour before the locals even thought about going out!

06 May 06 (Sat). Ushuaia sits on the northern bank of the Beagle Channel, the southerly most town on the planet that we could ride to located at S54.810 W068.315. That makes it about the same distance south of the equator as Newcastle is north of it. The only constantly habited town south of Ushuaia is Puerto Williams on the island of Navarino, Chile. We walked around the local are to get our bearings, a bit of sight seeing and find the major sites of interest. The memorial to the Hero’s of the Malvinas war and particularly to the crew of the General Belgrano that was sunk by the Royal Navy submarine HMS Conqueror on 02 May 1982, is a major monument. I assume that this area had significant losses during that conflict.

We took the opportunity of a boat trip to see some of the wildlife of the Beagle Channel. At 1500 we set sail (fired up the engines and throttled up) on the catamaran the Elisabatta to see; Sea Lions and Seals, Cormorants, guillemots and Arctic Doves. It was a great experience to see such wildlife in it natural habitat, up close and personal, very personal indeed. The boat got to within 10 metres of the rock outcrop that was the basking area of the sea lions. We were so close you could almost reach across and get bitten! Having left the sea lions to their roaring, grumbling and some fighting, we were off to see the seals. What a contrast in behaviour, the seal lions just tolerated us and were indifferent in not a bit grumpy at the the intrusion. The seals were a completely different kettle of fish. They we like energetic kids and the arrival of the boat was the signal to come and play. Long before the boat arrived at there island they were leaping into the sea and coming to meet us. As if primed and on cue from the tour guide they jumped, dived, swam on their back looking up at us ready for that photo opportunity and chased around the stern of the boat as it powered away. These were bright, fun animals who looked as if they were here to enjoy life and if they could play with us all the better.

I must say that I have mixed feelings about this excursion; on one hand it was great experience to see a range of sea life in its natural surroundings and on the other the intrusion into their environment must have quite an impact on them. I can only assume that there is tight control on the number of boats visiting each area in any given time period or does money drive all!
We reached our most southerly point on this trip, the lighthouse @ S54.872 W068.082 that is 15 kms south east of Ushuaia. Everything for us is north from this point.
07 May 06 (Sun). We took the opportunity to have a short ride to the National Park and Roka Lake west of Ushuaia on the Chilean border but what we were really looking for was the glacier; poor navigation! We arrived at the park gate to be told by the Park Warden that we should have headed north out of Ushuaia not west; we knew that really, all those years of navigating around the world and we couldn’t find the glacier that we could see from the hotel window! Following the park, we thought that we ought to visit the glacier and were told that it’s a 1km walk once we’d reached the car park. It was an interesting ride to the glacier, a steep climb with some tight corners, fun for the bikes, but once at the car park we were told it was a 5 km walk; not to be undertaken in riding kit! Coffee, and toasties and contemplate our option for the afternoon. Obvious really, steep road with bends, go and play and do some filming. So that’s what we did for a couple of hours. Up and down trying to get some good shots and entertain the locals who wondered what we were up to! Enough of that, off for supper and large seafood pasta, more seafood than pasta very good indeed.

There is an abundance of dogs where ever you go. They seem to have their very own patch to patrol; they pick you up when you’re walking and escort you through and then leave you. They are all friendly enough and seem to enjoy a bit of company. But what they enjoy even more is a couple of bike to rush at barking, but what is the target, just the sport of the chase, see if they can get a tyre or to score full point they need to make contact with the rider? They then disappear until the next target comes along.

08 May 06 (Mon). Ushuaia to Punta Arenas. The run back to PA was the reverse of the run out on Friday, a dash to cover the 622 kms, two border posts, a ferry and be in PA before dark. It had sounded as though it had been raining overnight and it still was when we were preparing to set off. It’s still only the second day that we have had fully loaded bikes and we are still messing about trying to find the optimal loading plan and sequence of strapping it on. We got await by 0900 to spend an hour travelling through the Sierra de Injugoyen and Sierra Alvear, the weather had closed in and the anticipated views were disappointingly clouded. Slippery surfaces, tight and narrow corners and a bit of thick fog kept us interested in the job in hand. Once we were in the low hills the wind started to take affect on our riding style and as we travelled further north it became clear that what we had experienced on the way down was only a moderate breeze! Once clear of any protection of the mountains we spent the whole time leaning on the wind. I felt that it was trying to rip my helmet off and with it my head! It was a short but pleasurable respite as we approach Rio Grande turning east to ride around the town but only to be back in it as we turned north again.

The two border crossings were as smooth, friendly and helpful as they were coming the other way on Friday. We stopped for fuel, coffee and toasties before leaving Argentina, not wanting to repeat the near fuel crisis of the previous crossing! As we approached halfway to the ferry crossing at Bahia Azul we saw a loan bike heading towards us. We all stopped as is customary apparently to exchange new of crossing point and give/receive new of route conditions or problems ahead. The loan motorcyclist was from Japan, he was on a years out touring and had ridden from Canada. Pleasantries exchange we all went on our way. Then a second solo on what looked like a moped loaded up with massive panniers front and rear, without even communicating with each other Mick and I just ignorantly rode on. It was either disbelief at what we had just witnessed or more likely the thought of struggling to keep ourselves and the bikes upright while shouting through crash helmets over the raging wind to exchange pleasantries, the elements were winning. We both later felt a pang of guilt for not stopping to speak as Mick commented on seeing him in his mirror stop and look back at us disappearing at speed up the road, this will not happen again.
The ferry crossing from Bahia Azul to Punta Delgrade was millpond smooth on the way out, but today it was raging. The ferry was holding off the slipway waiting for enough traffic to arrive or its allotted time before making a very position approach to the slipway and deckhands gesturing energetically to the waiting vehicles to get themselves load quickly. Loaded and off into high seas with the water breaking over the bow ramp, not a day to be idly gossiping on the open deck.

We landed safely and were on our final run home to PA and the quiet sanctuary of the Hotel Jose Nogueira for cold beer and a large stake. Wrong; as we turned west we had the wind almost broadside and it was still stronger than before! 2 hours battling the wind bike leaning at a precarious angle. To try and picture the strength of the wind, we went round a left hand corner and the bikes were leaning to the right. If you’re not conversant with the physics of cornering and gravity, just imagine that you are on a bicycle cornering left!

The day completed and two very tired riders felt that they had been wrestling the road surfaces, the bikes and the elements. Tired but satisfied and looking forward to
tomorrows ride to the mountains of Torres del Paine National Park.
09 May 06 Tue). To come this far south in Chile you really should visit the national parks. Torres del Paine was 270 mile from PA on well paved road for the first half and graded track for the second. The coast town of Puerto Natales was the halfway point where coffee was a welcome break from the straight roads with little to inspire thought or adrenaline. We were advised that the distance to Torres del Paine would probably be too much to complete that afternoon but there were lodgings a Cerro Castillo some 40 miles into the park. We like a challenge and we have found that local knowledge should be ignored at your peril, but their time and distance estimations are calculated using the local transport. They are way of the mark when comes to motorbikes. So off we went for a 100 mile trail ride, the first 60 miles on hard packed gravel track that you could maintain a very respectable average speed. In fact if you could maintain that average speed in the UK you’d be very impressed or arrested! The landscape is very impressive as you ride across the plains slowly stalking the mountains. Once in the park the, not only did the scenery become more dramatic with turquoise lagos, water fall and the snow capped mountains, but the track got a bit more dramatic too, nearly catching us out a couple of times when hard surface turned to fine silt offering no traction or steering, all the more interesting on those tight bends with a steep drop!
Our target destination was the lodge at Lago Grey the furthest point of the park and the head of the glacier. Arriving at the end of the afternoon still with plenty of daylight the sight of the glacier on the far distant shore with icebergs the colour of electric blue in the water in the middle distance surrounded by an amphitheatre of mountains in late afternoon sun, the views continue to be more spectacular as we progress on this trip.
10 May 06 (Wed). Chilean glaciers visited, it was now are intention to head off to Argentina to their glacier park and see if it was bigger and better. The route out of the park was much the same as the way in, but we did stop at a viewing point to get some spectacular photos. As we did the David Bailey bit, a small Zorro Gris (Spanish) or Grey Fox (English) wondered onto the viewing point, looked at us and completed its morning constitution, he was not the least bit concerned of our presence, just lay in the open 5 metres from us. Even when a tour mini bus arrive and 6 people got out it did not flinch. Another one of those set piece tourist attractions, like the seals.
As we approach Cerro Castillo Mick S got a puncture. Fortunately we were close enough to town, I went ahead to find help which was in the form of the shop. I was told that there were no facilities here and Puerto Natales would be the best place to go. I’d just got back on the bike, side stand still down, when without warning I was on my side. Both bike and I hand been blown over; Oh had I forgot to remind you that it was still blowing a gale. Fortunately the local teacher happened by and spoke English, he though he knew a man who could help and sure enough he could. Shelter from the wind was sought behind the shop and the rear wheel was removed. Arriving at the appointed place I was met by two gents shoeing a horse, loud tones of cursing and bollocking the horse for having the audacity to require a new shoe. Much leg twisting and nailing to be done before he was ready to help me, but it was an interesting lesson in shoeing the gaucho way, not sure the horse enjoyed it much.

Old tyre removed and new tyre on (we are carrying a spare front and rear each) quicker than you can change the shoe on a horse. Success, we’ll be on our way in no time, just need to get some air into it, get it sealed on the bead and bob’s your uncle and away you go, or is it? The tyre bead would not seat and the compressor was too small to introduce enough air to force a seal. The only option was to ride to Puerto Natales where there would be a bigger compressor. Back to Mick S, arriving with rear wheel with new tyre fitted, look of delight on his face. Could almost hear his thoughts, job done we can get on our way, Wrong. Explaining that I must take it to Natales, he dually waved farewell and settled down with a couple of stray dogs. There is a tyre shop in Natales and we spent an hour fighting to get the bead to seat on the rim before it would inflate and I could get back to fit it.

Although it was a pain in the arse, the experience it give was the opportunity to get acquainted with the rudiments of rural life in this area and be aware that tubeless tyres are not the easiest of things to change without the proper equipment (unless you know differently?). Mick reckons the we need to do it the Icelandic way; tin of lighter fuel, spray it into the tyre and light, rapid expansion causes tyre to seat on the bead, any thoughts? All ends well with both bikes in working order ready for the next day.

11 May 06 (Thu). Now we’ll ride to Argentina and on to El Calafate on the edge of the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Border crossing just outside Natales was without any problems, the guards did stop and want to have a look in the panniers but we think that they we just interested in the bikes and what we were carrying for our trip. As we entered the town we were trying to workout which road to take when a pick up stopped alongside and ask where we were going, they offered to lead us out of town and put us on the right road which we covered quickly before turning onto route 40, a gravel track that had little of scenery to view but much to concentrate on as it was a very loose surface. Today is probably the coldest we’ve had, there was ice on nearly all the static water that we passed and when we stopped before descending into El Calafate at a height of 800 metres Mick tried to take photos and some video but could not stop shivering. Still it’ll be another day tomorrow and another glacier, suppose you cannot see glaciers in the tropics, that’s why they are in the cold!

Our intention for the next week is to:

Did we reach our goals of last week; nearly, we are about a day out of our intended timings, but will be 2 days out by the time we leave El Calafate. The intention is to:

12 May (Fri). Visit Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

13 & 14 May. Ride to Peninsular Valdes

15 May (Mon). Whale watch – perhaps?

16 – 18 May. Ride to Buenos Aires.

UPDATE 4 - CHILE 05 MAY 06

2006-05-30T21:44:00.000Z

9 Apr – 05 May 05
PUNTA ARENAS CHILE

29 Apr 06 (Sat). We arrived at Punta Arenas (Sandy Point) (PA) airport and moved through immigration and customs without incident; more than can be said for a couple of Russians who were in transit! PA is a historic city, located in southern Chile on the western shore of the Peninsula de Brunswick on the edge of the Magellanes Straights overlooking Teirra del Furego. The first impression as we approach the city was one of poverty. Poor housing, almost shanty with lots of scrap scattered around homes. But as we neared the centre of the city it evolved into a more structured and developed metropolis, a few tall buildings and some grand houses and plenty of small shops.

It is a city steeped in history. We are staying in the Hotel José Nogueira that was once the home of Sarah Braun the widow of an outstanding Portuguese pioneer Mr José Nogueira who was the owner of a cattle and shipping empire; it is claimed that in July 1916 Sir Ernest Shackleton presented himself, asking for funds and help to rescue his men who were marooned on Elephant Island after his ship “Endurance” was trapped in ice and then sank as the ice pack slowly crushed it. He was successful in raising help in the form of the Chilean Naval ship the “Yelcho” which reached Elephant Island on 30 August 1916, returning the stranded crew to Chile four days later. Evidence of Shackleton’s presence can be seen across the city with plaque and plate on numerous buildings hailing his name.

One of the first ominous signs that winter is approaching as we arrived in PA was the sound of studded snow tyres clattering on tarmac! That would be more apparent as the week progresses!

30 Apr 06 (Sun). PA is not a very large city and we walked the main areas within a few hours. One site that was strongly recommended was the Municipal Cemetery, acclaimed as the second best in the world! Being cynics and not believing that a cemetery could be so renowned we had to visit it; and yes it was spectacular. The money spent by the living to retain the memory of the dead appears some what extravagant, to say the least! However, true to the recommendation, it was a spectacular site and memorial. Some of the mausoleums were the sizes of small houses and better appointed too, tended with loving care and those with glass doors adorned with flowers, pictures and memorabilia of those laid to rest.

02 May 06 (Tue). Following the May Bank Holiday, Punta Arenas slowly came back to life and with it the opportunity to track down our shipping agent. We visited the manager of shipping, Milenko Bahamonde at the offices of Agunsa Shipping to confirm the arrangement for getting our bikes through customs when the Elisabeth Boye arrives. We were informed that the ship would not arrive until the morning of Thu 04 May 06 but were assured that they would do everything possible to extract the bikes as quickly as possible. In order to prepare customs and try to speed-up the official clearance we were taken by Christian Ramos to the customs offices to confirm what documentations would be require. The customs officer was very helpful, confirming that just our ownership docs were required. It seems easy; we’ll see on Thursday?

Even within the few days that we’ve been here, there is a noticeable drop in the temperature as the southern hemisphere winter approaches! We know that we will need to get a few hundred kms north soon and it to some warmer climes!

04 May 06 (Thu). Its 0830 and the Elisabeth Boye is in dock and unloading; they are not expecting to get to our container until 100. We wait and hope!!

At 1300 we have the bikes. With no hassle or bother we unloaded them from the container all safe and sound, had the dock shipping note issued and went to the Customs office. This is the part that everyone seems to dread, and for good reason in most cases. The Customs Officers at PA were extremely helpful. A straightforward set forms to complete a couple of stamps a friend good-luck to us and were on our way in 1½ hours, for first arriving at the docks to driving off. Thanks to all who made it happen.

It’s a bright sunny day again so the sensible thing to do was go for a spin to check that they are still working as we’d left them. Thirty miles north of PA was our turnaround point; we realising that we’d not put enough clothing on for this run-out. The wind is very strong and the temperature is dropping fast! While we were sat at the edge of the road a biker rode towards us out of the low bright sunshine; it was Gary from Washington State who’d started riding on 06 Feb 06 and was on his way to Ushuaia then up to Rio and possibly on to Cape Town to ride Africa. He was on an old BMW and sidecar combination; a true BMW spotter would have known instantly what year it was; all we can say that it was old, up for the job, loaded with kit and he had to kick start it! Prob a 750 or 800, sure someone will offer up a model?

Our intention for the next week is to:

05 May 06 (Fri). Attempt to ride from PA north east to Punta Delgada to get the ferry south onto Tierra del Fuego, cross the Chilean Argentine border at San Sebastian, through Rio Grande and on to Ushuaia; some 500 Kms. Arrival in Ushuaia by night fall will be dependant on ferries and the formalities of customs officials!

06 May 06 (Sat). A day to sightsee Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel and surrounding area.

07 May 06 (Sun). Return to PA to collect insurance documents posted from the UK. Insurance was one of those last minute things to arrange.

08 May 06 (Mon). If post arrives, ride north to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine an area of outstanding beauty in Chile but on the border with Argentina.

09 May 06 (Tue). Visit Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

10 May 06 (Wed). Cross into Argentina at Cerre Castillo to ride north to the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares and Monte Fitz Roy.

11 May 06 (Thu). Visit the glaciers.

12 May 06 (Fri). Head off north east for about 1000 kms to Peninsula Valdes, Monumento Natural Nacianal Ballena Franca Austral on the coast at N43.5, W64 degrees. This area is a marine sanctuary and hopefully there will be some interesting sights to see?

Well, by this time next week we’ll have seen how the time predictions are working!!

UPDATE 3 - THE FALKLANDS 29 APR 06

2006-05-30T21:06:00.000Z

20 April - 29 April 2006
THE UNITED KINGDOM TO THE FALKLAND ISLANDS

20 Apr 06 (Thu). Today was our last day in the UK and it was a busy one. You’d have thought that we would be sitting drinking coffee with our feet up just waiting for the time to pass; not a chance. It was a hectic day from the start. Nicola Goodwin from BBC Hereford & Worcester arrived at 10 AM to do a piece with us for BBC H&W TV and BBC local Radio. It was an opportunity for us to promote the two charities that we are supporting, Macmillan Cancer Support and The Pirates Trust “Just for Kids” appeal. That was followed by the local press the Hereford Times. Because our bikes are onboard ship and hopefully just approaching the Falklands, Peter from Rydale BMW Cardiff brought two BMW Adventure to us so that we looked the part in front of the cameras! Many thanks for that help.

The remainder of the day was taken up getting copies of our document so we could leave copies at home as take spares with us. Then off to Royal Air Force Brize Norton for a midnight departure on an 18 hour flight to the Falklands via Ascension Island.

21 Apr 06 (Fri). We had a short refuelling stop at Ascension Island, a small British outpost sitting in the Atlantic off the west coast of Africa. It offered us an opportunity to stretch the legs and get a couple of photos of our rather aging 747 300 aircraft with Green Mountain as the backdrop; this is the highest hill/mountain
on the Island with a micro climate of its own; it seems to be constantly shrouded in mist, hence its name; Green Mountain.

When we were about 100 mile from the Falklands the aircraft captain announced that two Tornado fighter jets were inbound to escort us into Mount Pleasant Airbase (MPA), our destination. Whether, the threat is high enough to warrant an escort or it’s a useful exercise for the jets, it’s a spectacular event that is a rare photo opportunity. We arrived in the Falklands at midday in torrential rain. A friendly and swift passage through the formalities then onto a minibus for the ride to Stanley; which is not only the capital of the Falklands but can boast as being the most southerly capital in the world. We were told by the RAF Movers that the SKAFTAFELL had arrived arrive at the military port and the bikes were unloaded. A little premature, as the ship had still to arrive at Stanley Harbour, that would be where the bikes would be unloaded on Monday. Our home for the next eight days was the Upland Goose Hotel run by Dave Batty. A comfortable and friendly base that provided us with all the amenities and support that we needed to prep the bikes, when they arrived. Eva Jaffray, of the Darwin Shipping Company a subsidiary of the Falkland Island Company; popped in to see us; to put faces to the names on a constant stream of emails over the last few months and to let us know when we were likely to get our hand on the bikes! Early in the planning, Eva was our contact for shipping the bikes from the Falklands to Chile; but as the plans changed and we kept asking her more and more questions, she became our sole point of contact and so became not only our shipping agent, but also our holiday rep, guide, flight organiser and liaison office to any and every department on the Islands that we needed to deal with.

As the Falkland Islands are 5 hours behind UK time and we’d been traveling for more than 24 hours; the chance of seeing the night through in style was wishful thinking only.

22 & 23 Apr 06 (Sat & Sun). The weekend was a quiet time; getting to know the town and visiting the harbour to find the landing point for the bikes, take in a visit to the seaman’s mission for tea and a very good piece of home made cake. We didn’t have to walk far to get our first sight of a penguin; it was playing right along the harbour edge near the hotel.

24 Apr 06 (Mon). We get the bikes today. We knew that the ship had not arrived on Sunday and would be in on Monday morning. Like excited kids we went to the waters edge to see if we could see the SKAFTAFELL; no she had not arrived, disappointment! Then a cry from Mick S, she was approaching the harbour; on with the riding kit and off to get the paper work done. The first port of call was to the police station to register and tax the bikes, then to insure them. Again Eva had liaised with the police so they knew we were coming and generously permitted us to ride with our UK number plates; save us a tenner each! But it still cost £80 per bike to put them on the road for 4 days!! The rest of the day was spent waiting for the ship to off load her cargo before we could get to the bikes. It was the end of the afternoon when we got them, pouring rain and getting dark, but we were happy.

25 Apr 06 (Tue). The morning was spent fitting the top box that had not arrived before bikes were shipped. So much for accurate instructions! We fitted the interface plate in the UK, drill and screw, would they fit the bikes without having to remove the grab rail, no? Anyway, all amendments and adjustments complete, time to take them for a ride. But first it a photo call with Sharon Jaffray from the Penguin News, then try and get some miles covered. Ironically we could not seem to get too far as each road we took had road works and appeared closed. We managed 50 mile over some interesting ground, a bit of tarmac and quite a bit of rough track.

26 Apr 06 (Wed). We had a prompt start to the day as we were flying to Port Howard on West Falkland courtesy of the RAF and British International Helicopters. A 35 mile ride in a stiff breeze on a mixture of tarmac, compacted made-up surface and then a surface equivalent to marbles! In the dry it was an easy ride (marbles requiring a bit more concentration). The flight to the West Island gave us and opportunity get a good view of the terrain; “it’s a desolate place”, some very isolate settlements with little infrastructure and limited routes of communications. But also a place of contrasts, areas of steep hills and flat moorlands with the hinterland and coastline rich in wildlife that would satisfy even the most reluctant ornithologist.

Port Howard is in comparison to other settlements, large; there are some 15 homes but only about 15 people who live there. In the centre of the settlement is the Port Howard Lodge; a large guest house that serves as a base for those visiting the area. We joined a couple for coffee and cake who were on a two week island hopping holiday and although late in the season they had seen a vast array of wildlife on their travels.

Before the helicopter arrived for the return flight to MPA we were in heavy rain but also bright sunshine which produces a spectacular rainbow that arced out of a small settlement across the Port Howard inlet south for a mile. When we returned to MPA the heli crew invited us into their bar (coke only) as one them was a keen motorcyclist. It transpires that British International Helicopters also has an operation running from Penzance Cornwall in the area of Mick S home to the Isles of Sicily.

The ride home in the dark in heavy rain was filthy, not only did we have wet marbles to deal with now but also a flock of Upland geese decided to take off into the road just as Mick S approached them. As they are about the size of swans you can imagine that it’s not a good idea to make contact with them!!

27 Apr 06 (Thu). A bright sunny day but cold day; must get some miles in today. We rode to North Arm Farm, the most southerly settlement on East Falklands about 100 miles from Stanley on graded and stone tracks that were in ideal conditions for a test ride! The route takes you through Goose Green and past the Argentine War Cemetery; we visited both location on the way. As we approach North Arm there was in increase in the number of sheep on or around the track; and as if they know, they lull you into a false sense of security by crossing the track, you think that they have gone; they change their mind and run back in front of you! There was also a repeat of the Upland goose incident of the night before; we were kicking on at a good rate when 3 geese left the ditch without warning, it was head down below the screen and hope they don’t make contact! We were met at North Arm by Eileen and Ian Jaffray along with young Grandson “Mad Max” with tea and cakes and a donation to both of our charities. Thank you. We might even meet them again in Calgary, Canada as we are all likely to be there at the same time.

28 Apr 06 (Fri). Today is our final day with the bikes on the Falklands as we had to return them to the Harbour for loading on the Elisabeth Boye for shipping to Punta Arenas early next week. A day of final packing and double checking that what we have with us is what we need! And to complete the week we had our final supper with Eva and her husband Gerard, to thank her for all the work she had put-in to make the start of our adventure smooth and successful.

29 Apr 06 (Sat). All that was left for us to do was go to MPA for the flight with LAN Chile to Punta Arenas. It was an uneventful day that went smoothly. We now wait for our bike to arrive, again!

Conclusion on the Falklands. The Falklands Islands do not necessarily spring to mind as a natural start point for a long haul motorcycle adventure. It is a remote set of islands in the South Atlantic. But having the right support in the form of the RAF and those who authorised our flights and particularly Eva who took control of all aspects of our requirements prior to our arrival and continued to look after us all the way through our stay on beyond. We cannot give Eve enough praise and thanks for all her work through the Darwin Shipping Company and the Falkland Island Company. The Falkland Islands gave us the ideal opportunity to do final preparations and shake-out before starting the ride in earnest. Even without our service background and the support from the RAF it is still an achievable and cost effective route to take if you wish to start in the South.

It was also an opportunity for us to visit a part of the world that was new to us and in doing so meet people on their own terms; unlike the opportunities usually available to serving personnel who can have a jaundice view of a community that they cannot get close to due to the operational, training and barrack conditions. We are grateful to have had the opportunity to be part of your community albeit for only a week, we thoroughly enjoyed it.

UPDATE 2 - UK PREPATATION

2006-05-30T20:49:00.000Z

02 Mar 06 (Thu). Take delivery of two BMW R1150 GS Special Edition Adventure motorcycles. Add all the bits.

08 Mar 06 (Wed). First service @ 800 miles

10 Mar 06 (Fri). Deliver bikes to Marchwood, Southampton for shipping to the Falkland Island on the SKAFTAFELL. Not too much of a rush!!!

We are in the process of building this website and working out exactly how it will be used, how it will work and what functions it has; that’s down to Dave Cox who will be our home link. We do not expect to get any serious information on it until next week (17 March 2006) and those of you who have already got the web address (obvious statement as you’re reading it) and are keen for some information, please bear with us as we get it underway.

THE BIKES: Well what did you expect; vespa’s! For the techno biffs a full list of additional equipment will be added, plus we will give our views of each bit as we progress. More information on all the kit will follow, in greater detail when we’ve got some miles under our belts. What we have achieved so far is to buy a couple of bikes, BMW 1150 GS Special Edition (SE) Adventure add a load of BMW, Wunderlich, Touratech and Bykebitz bits and confirm which continent we fancy a bit of a ride-out on. We delivered the bikes to Marchwood at Southampton to be loaded onto a ship call the SKAFTAFEL which will take them to Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands, arriving about 20th April 06. We expect to arrive in the Falklands on the 21 April 06 when we will have about 4 days to ride the Islands and sort our bikes out. We only had the bikes for approx 8 days before we delivered them for shipping, so you can imagine that we still need to do some work on them before we start the trip in earnest!

22 March 06 (Wed) MARCHWOOD PORT UK

The bikes were delivered to Marchwood docks at Southampton on 10 Mar 06 and held in the safe keeping of Colin Mann and his team at the Falkland Islands transits warehouse. They were loaded onto the SKAFTAFELL this morning, ready to sail tomorrow and arrive at Port Stanley on (about) 20 Apr 06. Colin said that the lads who moved the bikes from the store to the ship, albeit only a few hundred metres enjoyed the ride and hot grips on a cold dockside morning; could that stir them to greater things? The bikes are not fully loaded with our expedition kit yet. We will add the remaining kit when we reach the Falklands.

Commercial disclaimer. We are not supported, sponsored or funded by any individuals, organisations, businesses or dealer. The inclusion of the companies and their products in this website is not a commercial endorsement. They are the companies that we have bought products from, with some discount. The aim of including the list of equipment that we have added to our bikes is for interest only and possibly to help anyone else planning a trip of this kind. However, we will give our comments on the positive and negative issues as we find them along our journey.

http://www.bmw-motorrad.co.uk/
BMW 1150 GS ADVENTURE SE - obviously
Fork seals – to replace fork seals
Quick Release couplings + o-rings - spares
Pipe clamps - spares
Improved Headlight bulb – to see and be seen
Kenwood radios with Lead – bike to bike comms
Oil filter tool – to remove oil filter

http://www.wunderlich.co.uk/
Big foot - side stand plate wide plate
Blue filter air filter – washable, long lasting air filter
Filter Plus – magnetic plate attached to the oil filter
Magnetic sump plug – collects any metal debris
Signal minder – enables indicators to remain on permanently. Increases the visibility of the rides - safety
Lifting handle – assist lifting bike onto the centre stand
Splash guards for feet – reduces splash to the feet
Fenda extenda front mud guard – reduced splash onto the front of the bike
Rear extenda rear mud guard – reduces splash at the rear of the bike
Oil filler plug lockable – prevents tampering with oil filler
Cruise control – for those long straight roads
Puncture Repair Kit – could state the obvious!!
'Micro Flooter' spot lights – additional spot lights to be seen; not to see with - safety
Black side panels – covers the brake reservoir, prevents tamperingBattery; improved ampage – greater amp out put when running all the electrics
Handle bar risers – shortens the reach to the bars – more comfortable
Foot peg lowers – longer leg reach – more comfortable
Foot brake enlarge – makes it easier to make contact with the foot brake
Pro Com 7 – to provide bike – bike comms, mobile phone, IPOD and GPS audio feed
GPS BMW Nav II (Garmin 2610) – although there is little digital mapping for South America it all helps

www.touratech.co.uk
Oil cooler grill – to protect oil cooler
Centre stand protector (Belly plate) – provide greater underside protection
Exhaust Y Centre box (Exhaust non Catalytic) – prevents fouling when using poor fuel.
BMW to cigarette lighter Socket adapters – to power equipment
Headlight Guard – to protect the headlights
Sondersystem 41 litre pannier system with lockable lid – to provide a large and robust carrying system
Top case 33 ltr with lockable lid with bracket – carrying system
Hand guard extenders – to provide addition protection to the hands
Bottle Holder brackets holds x 2 primus bottles – one pair of bottles on each pannier provide an addition 4 ltrs of capacity. One lt oil three ltrs fuel.
GPS handlebar bracket (lockable) - the stock BMW GPS cradle is plastic and although very competent in general use it would not withstand the rigors of our trip.

http://www.bikebitz.co.uk/
Airhawk seat cushion – provides a comfortable cushion

spare

2006-05-30T20:47:00.000Z

UPDATE 1 - THE TEAM

2006-05-30T20:24:00.000Z

THE TEAM

Mick Daly : Mick Simpson

Having both spent over 30 years each; man and boy in the British Army, we coincidentally decided to leave at about the same time. So what do you do to settle and adjust into civilian life? A lifetime of adventure and contrasts, all part of your daily life at the expense of Her Majesty, it could be hard to surpass; adventures have all been arranged, organised and delivered. In the broadest terms, you’re given the parameters but told when to have an adventure, how long it will last, how to manage it and when to finish it. So this adventure is for us; no limits, well except for financial constraints, our own physical endurance, the extremes of weather and the long suffering of our home based support team; our wives, who we hugely appreciate.

THE AIM. The aim of this expedition is to ride two motorbikes, unsupported, from the southern most habitable city navigable (by bike) on the planet, the city of Ushuaia in Argentina, South America, to the northern most navigable (by bike) point in Alaska, Prudhoe Bay, visiting every, or as many countries as we can en-route.

THE ADVENTURE BORN. How was this adventure born? I had already decided to leave the Army when in October 05, on a few weeks leave, I rode to Malta to meet my wife for a week’s holiday; I rode BM she flew BA, my reluctant pillion! While we were there Mick S phoned to say he had decided to leave the Army too; my immediate response was to tell him to get a GS (BMW) and we’d ride to Cape Town for fun. It took me a few weeks to ride back from Malta, enjoying all that Italy, Switzerland and France had to offer (there must be another story there?). When we next met, Mick S thought the idea was good but perhaps needed a bit more spice; three Capes not just the one! It is now Christmas 05 and the planning became more serious, Cape Horn, Cape of Good Hope and that bit at the bottom of India, it must have a Cape? When the head started to rule the planning rather than the heart, it brought a sense of realism; we were conscious that we wanted to start around April/May 2006 and that was not far off! The Americas seemed to be a good place to start and relatively straight forward to plan for (don’t quote me on this later!!).

WHY DO IT? Why do it at all? Because we can! Just for fun and as an excuse to have a mature Gap Year. It’s an ideal time in life, natural career break (all the youngsters seem to be having gap years why not have a mature gap year), transition from one career to another and an opportunity to visit at our leisure countries and places not normally on the military or holiday beaten track and by motorbike too.

WHERE ARE WE NOW? On the 20th April 2006 we fly courtesy of the Royal Air Force to the Falkland Islands to join our motorbikes that sailed 23rd Mar 06 from Marchwood, Southampton on the SKAFTAFELL. We expect to have a few days on the islands to get used to our new bikes and to lay wreaths at the sites of the fallen as it’s the 24th anniversary of the war. Then (29 Apr 06) it’s to Punta Arenas, Chile, cross to Tierra del Fuego and south to Ushuaia in Argentina, which is our real start point for the long ride north to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska! Expected start from Ushuaia is 4th May 06.

WHERE ARE WE GOING? We have not established a clear route yet and that might not happen, but the intension is to visit the major spectacular sites i.e. The Glaciers, Angle Falls, Machu Picchu and the Amazon etc. We will attempt to visit every country on the Americas during our travels; some will definitely be more challenging than others to reach! Those we do not reach will either be because of the security and safety situation; it’s not worth the risk and how embarrassing having to be rescued! Or the physical conditions are more than we can overcome; perhaps parts of the Amazon will come into this category, trying to get to French Guyana via Manaus! Or it’s really just too far to travel to reach that one final area, over the last mountain barred with snow! But we will try.

The next firm date on our calendar is a rendezvous with our wives somewhere in the Caribbean, for the second week of June 06, location yet to be decided. We will not attempt to ride there as it would put us under to much time pressure to reach a location that may not suite our flexible schedule. We will leave our bikes in a secure area and fly to join them for a weeks R&R

THE BENEFITS. As we will be riding a widely diverse, geographical and cultural continent, we will be taking cameras, laptops etc and sending updates to our website http://www.2wmc.co.uk/ and 2wmc.blogspot.com for those interested to see where we are and what we are doing. We are supporting two charities that we would like to raise funds for while we have an interested audience; which is you! We have linked them to our websites in order that they might benefit from the exposure and your generosity! My charity is Macmillan Cancer Support found through www.justgiving.com/MickDaly-Hereford. Mick Simpson’s charity is The Pirates Trust “Just for Kids” in association with PirateFM http://www.piratefm.co.uk/ Cornwall’s local radio station. This aspect of the trip was a late consideration as we had not thought about or planned to have a web site; any benefit to charities are an unplanned but a very welcome by-product.

I have also made contact with the schools that my boys went to, Christ College Brecon http://www.christcollegebrecon.com/ and St. Richard’s Bredenbury http://www.st-richards.co.uk/ to see if there is anything that we can do for them as we travel? They are both keen to participate and we will see how we can benefit them.

THE END STATE. The declared end state is the arrival of two bikes with riders at Prudhoe Bay Alaska before it gets too cold to ride; which means we need to be there by the end of August or early September 06 and return home via Anchorage. The undeclared end state could be and dependant on a favourable attitude all round; a ride trans-Canada to Halifax Nova Scotia; or back through the USA to Miami or Christmas in Cape Town via Magadan Russia and Asia! What will be the critical factors; get to Prudhoe Bay first; are we still talking to each other; do we want to ride anymore; is the weather on our side; are our wives still on our side?

UPDATE 1 - THE TEAM

2006-05-30T19:33:00.000Z

THE TEAM

Mick Daly - Mick Simpson

Having both spent over 30 years each; man and boy in the British Army, we coincidentally decided to leave at about the same time. So what do you do to settle and adjust into civilian life? A lifetime of adventure and contrasts, all part of your daily life at the expense of Her Majesty, it could be hard to surpass; adventures have all been arranged, organised and delivered. In the broadest terms, you’re given the parameters but told when to have an adventure, how long it will last, how to manage it and when to finish it. So this adventure is for us; no limits, well except for financial constraints, our own physical endurance, the extremes of weather and the long suffering of our home based support team; our wives, who we hugely appreciate.

THE AIM. The aim of this expedition is to ride two motorbikes, unsupported, from the southern most habitable city navigable (by bike) on the planet, the city of Ushuaia in Argentina, South America, to the northern most navigable (by bike) point in Alaska, Prudhoe Bay, visiting every, or as many countries as we can en-route.

THE ADVENTURE BORN. How was this adventure born? I had already decided to leave the Army when in October 05, on a few weeks leave, I rode to Malta to meet my wife for a week’s holiday; I rode BM she flew BA, my reluctant pillion! While we were there Mick S phoned to say he had decided to leave the Army too; my immediate response was to tell him to get a GS (BMW) and we’d ride to Cape Town for fun. It took me a few weeks to ride back from Malta, enjoying all that Italy, Switzerland and France had to offer (there must be another story there?). When we next met, Mick S thought the idea was good but perhaps needed a bit more spice; three Capes not just the one! It is now Christmas 05 and the planning became more serious, Cape Horn, Cape of Good Hope and that bit at the bottom of India, it must have a Cape? When the head started to rule the planning rather than the heart, it brought a sense of realism; we were conscious that we wanted to start around April/May 2006 and that was not far off! The Americas seemed to be a good place to start and relatively straight forward to plan for (don’t quote me on this later!!).

WHY DO IT? Why do it at all? Because we can! Just for fun and as an excuse to have a mature Gap Year. It’s an ideal time in life, natural career break (all the youngsters seem to be having gap years why not have a mature gap year), transition from one career to another and an opportunity to visit at our leisure countries and places not normally on the military or holiday beaten track and by motorbike too.

WHERE ARE WE NOW? On the 20th April 2006 we fly courtesy of the Royal Air Force to the Falkland Islands to join our motorbikes that sailed 23rd Mar 06 from Marchwood, Southampton on the SKAFTAFELL. We expect to have a few days on the islands to get used to our new bikes and to lay wreaths at the sites of the fallen as it’s the 24th anniversary of the war. Then (29 Apr 06) it’s to Punta Arenas, Chile, cross to Tierra del Fuego and south to Ushuaia in Argentina, which is our real start point for the long ride north to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska! Expected start from Ushuaia is 4th May 06.

WHERE ARE WE GOING? We have not established a clear route yet and that might not happen, but the intension is to visit the major spectacular sites i.e. The Glaciers, Angle Falls, Machu Picchu and the Amazon etc. We will attempt to visit every country on the Americas during our travels; some will definitely be more challenging than others to reach! Those we do not reach will either be because of the security and safety situation; it’s not worth the risk and how embarrassing having to be rescued! Or the physical conditions are more than we can overcome; perhaps parts of the Amazon will come into this category, trying to get to French Guyana via Manaus! Or it’s really just too far to travel to reach that one final area, over the last mountain barred with snow! But we will try.

The next firm date on our calendar is a rendezvous with our wives somewhere in the Caribbean, for the second week of June 06, location yet to be decided. We will not attempt to ride there as it would put us under to much time pressure to reach a location that may not suite our flexible schedule. We will leave our bikes in a secure area and fly to join them for a weeks R&R

THE BENEFITS. As we will be riding a widely diverse, geographical and cultural continent, we will be taking cameras, laptops etc and sending updates to our website www.2wmc.co.uk and 2wmc.blogspot.com for those interested to see where we are and what we are doing. We are supporting two charities that we would like to raise funds for while we have an interested audience; which is you! We have linked them to our websites in order that they might benefit from the exposure and your generosity! My charity is Macmillan Cancer Support found through www.justgiving.com/MickDaly-Hereford. Mick Simpson’s charity is The Pirates Trust “Just for Kids” in association with PirateFM www.piratefm.co.uk Cornwall’s local radio station. This aspect of the trip was a late consideration as we had not thought about or planned to have a web site; any benefit to charities are an unplanned but a very welcome by-product.

I have also made contact with the schools that my boys went to, Christ College Brecon www.christcollegebrecon.com and St. Richard’s Bredenbury www.st-richards.co.uk to see if there is anything that we can do for them as we travel? They are both keen to participate and we will see how we can benefit them.

THE END STATE. The declared end state is the arrival of two bikes with riders at Prudhoe Bay Alaska before it gets too cold to ride; which means we need to be there by the end of August or early September 06 and return home via Anchorage. The undeclared end state could be and dependant on a favourable attitude all round; a ride trans-Canada to Halifax Nova Scotia; or back through the USA to Miami or Christmas in Cape Town via Magadan Russia and Asia! What will be the critical factors; get to Prudhoe Bay first; are we still talking to each other; do we want to ride anymore; is the weather on our side; are our wives still on our side?